Started my splitter build

[colson04]

What kind of tonnage are you sizing this splitter at? Looks pretty damn heavy duty and pretty good sized splitting cylinder too.

What are the specs on the motor/cylinder/tonnage for this build?

 

[Eric K]

I am putting a 20 hp Kawasaki liquid cooled on it. Going with a Barnes 28 gpm 2 stage pump. Prince auto cycle valve for splitting cylinder and prince valves for log and wedge lift. The splitting cylinder is a welded Prince gladiator cross tube 5" bore 24" stroke and the rod is 3". This should be a true 29 tons at 3000psi. Complete cycle time full extend to complete retract should be 7.5 seconds. I am building my own hydraulic tank gross capacity is 41 gallons I will run 35 gallons. For the fuel tank I'm going to build that out of stainless I have some 11ga. plate.

 

[Time's Standing Stihl]

Very talented work. Can't wait to see this project finished!

 

[Eric K]

Thanks Stihl!! I am looking forward to firing it up. It will make quick work out of splitting hopefully.

 

[colson04]

Very talented work. Can't wait to see this project finished!

Same here. This thing is gonna rip right through anything thrown in front of it. Serious duty and very robust design.

 

[Eric K]

Clamped a 1" plate to the top flange before welding to keep the flange from curling down. I Let it cool completely before removing clamps and it worked as planned. Very very minimal warping.

 

[Eric K]

Top view of the out feed bark and junk separator grate. There will be a 1/4" x 12" x 40" plate on each side. The plates will be angled out at 30 degrees.

Different angle

The stabilizer foot for the log lift will drop thru here.

 

[Eric K]

Started to machine the plates that the sealed wheel bearings will bolt to. I am using a rear hub assembly for a saturn car. These will work well and if they go bad 4 bolts and put a new one on.

Got em all done.

The hubs fit well. These plates will be welded to a 3"axle tube. The axle with the hubs bolted on will put the tires 5'8" center to center.

 

[Eric K]

On top of the axle I am going to weld up a 9 1/4" riser. This will give me 31" to the top of the beam.

 

[Jakers]

beautiful work. im just sitting here and eating it all up. love to see skill turning out quality work

 

[Eric K]

Thank you Jakers.

 

[Eric K]

Plates welded to the axle tube. I used 3"x 3" 11ga. wall for the axle. Little overkill but have a bunch of it.

Got the riser welded to the top if the axle. I used 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" tube for the riser. Gave me a good place to lay a nice fillet weld around.

Picked up a couple used saturn rims at the salvage yard for $25. They were in good shape but I went ahead and sandblasted them and had a buddy paint them.

It is on wheels and has a tongue and coupler.

Shot from the side. It is heavy to the wedge end right now but I calculated all the components that will be added in front of the axle and came up right about 800 lbs. that should offset the rear and give me some tongue weight so it tows nice.

 

[Eric K]

From the coupler to the end of the out feed table it's measures 145" (12'1").

 

[nathon918]

hope them hub assemblies hold up, thats alot if weight for an unsprung axle... not so much as a static load but when towing it and the whole splitter bounces, causes a big shock load to those hubs, where as a springs will take that up.
wouldnt be as concerned if it had typical spindles/tapered roller bearing hubs and the spindle would just bend, unlike hub assemblies that usually just snap off.
i have 3500# spindles on mine, and watching it bounce over rough roads makes me wish i put 7000# spindles on it, it weighs somewhere around 2800-3000# i havent seen any bending yet, but ive only towed it twice...

 

[ttyR2]

If you have that much engine running the pump, why go with a 2 stage? Just means it will slow down even though you have enough engine to go through tough stuff. Anything over 18HP and I'd stick with a single stage. It's mechanically more simple as well.

 

[nathon918]

If you have that much engine running the pump, why go with a 2 stage? Just means it will slow down even though you have enough engine to go through tough stuff. Anything over 18HP and I'd stick with a single stage. It's mechanically more simple as well.

single stage he'd be limiting himslef to about 10 GPM now he could lower his relief pressure and gain a few more gpm but i dont see much value in that. rule of thumb is 1/2 gpm to every HP, it varies on system pressure though, typical 3000 psi system is right around that just slightly less than 1/2 gpm per hp.
now when going diesel thats a totally different story, thats when torque values need to be factored in...
id stick with the 2 stage!
they can be adjusted to your specific engine, so they kick into the high pressure side when your engine actually starts to bog down, that way you can put that 20hp to good use.

 

[Eric K]

I almost went with a torsion axle. Did you use springs on your build? I am going to stick with the 28 gpm 2 stage. Like Nathon said I will adjust the high pressure to the engine.

 

[Eric K]

I only need to tow this unit 10 miles round trip most of the time. If the hubs don't hold up I will put a torsion axle under it.

 

[muddstopper]

I am putting a 20 hp Kawasaki liquid cooled on it. Going with a Barnes 28 gpm 2 stage pump. Prince auto cycle valve for splitting cylinder and prince valves for log and wedge lift. The splitting cylinder is a welded Prince gladiator cross tube 5" bore 24" stroke and the rod is 3". This should be a true 29 tons at 3000psi. Complete cycle time full extend to complete retract should be 7.5 seconds. I am building my own hydraulic tank gross capacity is 41 gallons I will run 35 gallons. For the fuel tank I'm going to build that out of stainless I have some 11ga. plate.

My splitter also has the 28gpm 2stage pump and a 25hp kholer engine and the same 5in cylinder. Actual cycle times are 12sec. With the 6way wedge, you will find the pump spends a little more time in the low flow/high pressure mode and will reduce your cycle times. Another limiting factor will be the autocycle valve itself. It is only rated for 25gpm flow. In retract mode, you pump will be in the low pressure/ high flow mode of 28gpm, but the oil returning from the cylinder to tank will be flowing much more than 28gpm going back to tank. I have to run my engine at a low rpm to prevent excessive heat build up in the oil. To get the best possible cycle times out of your setup, I might suggest you add a dump valve between cylinder and tank to divert the oil directly to tank and not have to run it thru your autocycle valve. I plan on rigging something of this nature on my machine and believe it will speed up my cycle times as well as help keep the oil cool.

 

[nathon918]

I almost went with a torsion axle. Did you use springs on your build? I am going to stick with the 28 gpm 2 stage. Like Nathon said I will adjust the high pressure to the engine.

no mines solid, my axle is 4" x 1/2" wall square tube with the spindles welded to the tube.