Sthil light bars

[Trailsawyer]

A 32" bar used to be my favorite, but now, at 75, the 28" light is the "new 32"!

 

[Non professional]

I like the Stihl light bars. They are a little floppy (as is any light bar) but for a 28 or a 32 it’s not an issue. My only complaint about them is the tip doesn’t have a grease hole. There are better bars available, but I don’t think you can beat the Stihl light bars for the price.

 

[JPCalifornia]

If you were cut'n timber on the steep and having to reach out with a 90cc saw spinning a 32" or 36" loop all day every day? I bet you'd justify the price difference real quick come your first pay day!

I’m running 36” and 32” Stihl Light bars on my 661 and it DEFINITELY makes a BIG difference! The balance is also significantly better!

On a side note, the Husqvarna X-Tough Light bars (which appear to be a rebranded Sugi Hara’s) aren’t much lighter than Husqvarna’s standard bars.

 

[Kodiak Kid]

If I was 6'10" id be running nothing shorter than 36"

PVhiker
you packing on foot or bike.

Ive bent a few heavy weight bars one I left a big fir in hurry kinda left the saw in it.

Another a tree rolled bucking on a hillside and took the saw with it.
Im lucky to be alive learned alot over the years felling and bucking in Situation I shouldn't be.

Bern a few years since I bent a bar. Ive got a 28 and 32 like them both alot. Want to get light but cant decide on wich length.

32 I like felling 28 all around

Back to bending. A guy isnt more likly to bend a light bar over a heavy if hes cutting safely using common sence. If hes not sure what hes doing both bares will bend equually easy.

"If" He's cutt'n safely and using common sense. However, no matter how experienced one is, S**t happens!
I disagree, Lights are far more delicate than Solids and they do bend easier than Solids.

I have 28" 32" and 36" light bars. For me, the 32" on a 661 is the best balance and feel of the three.

Cut safe, stay sharp, and be aware!

 

[Kodiak Kid]

I’m not sure why anyone buys a heavyweight bar.

Cost.

 

[Trailsawyer]

One. Definitely more delicate than a standard weight bar and require more pampering.

This description of a "lightweight" pretty much describes this old guy that runs them!

 

[Evan]

Pampering I think comes pretty easy on this sight. These saws get buffed and waxed more than they cut wood n fling bar oil around thr garage

 

[Sierra_rider]

Stihl lightweight bars for me, I don't think everyone needs them, but they are awesome in difficult cutting conditions. I've got 25-36" lwbs and I like the 28s the most for the cutting I do. I prefer 32" if I'm just cutting trees, but there is often a brushing component involved and prefer the 28" for all around use. I like the 28s so much, that I actually have 3 of them...2 Stihl lw bars and a Sugi lightweight for my 372xpw. I definitely prefer the Stihl bars.

 

[Kodiak Kid]

This description of a "lightweight" pretty much describes this old guy that run them!

I believe you've earned it sir!Good on ya!

Pampering I think comes pretty easy on this sight. These saws get buffed and waxed more than they cut wood n fling bar oil around thr garage

Most definitely. I love it when pictures are posted and someone says something like.

"This is my favorite saw. I Bought it a year ago. Its finally breaking in after twelve tanks"

Not a scratch or spec of saw waste or bar oil on it with a brand new bar. While its in their pristine "work shop" sitting on a "work bench" that's cleaner than my dinning room table! LMAO

Stihl lightweight bars for me, I don't think everyone needs them, but they are awesome in difficult cutting conditions. I've got 25-36" lwbs and I like the 28s the most for the cutting I do. I prefer 32" if I'm just cutting trees, but there is often a brushing component involved and prefer the 28" for all around use. I like the 28s so much, that I actually have 3 of them...2 Stihl lw bars and a Sugi lightweight for my 372xpw. I definitely prefer the Stihl bars.

I like the Cannon 28" L bar over the STIHL 28" L bar on a 661 myself. Its a little heavier giving a 661 better balance. When it comes to a 32" L bar? I definitely prefer STIHL. However, STHIL's 28" L bar may be a better fit on a 70cc as far as balance, but I wouldn't know. I don't have a 70cc anymore. Not one that runs anyway!

 

[PV Hiker]

@Evan that would be packing in on foot for the day. It might be up to 12 miles round trip around Lake Tahoe. We have various entrance points that we might get closer. Not that young any more where I would just bring it all.

First Stihl light weight bars I used was a 28" and 36" on my 500i. What a joy the 36" bar is to use bucking very large trees on trails!

I have not let other sawyers use my saws with the LW-bars as I've seen how they treat and use the organization's saws. And I have money invested in these retirement saws not wanting disappointments when they damage them. One sawyer using my MS261C-M pinched the tip on a limb bind, yup, twisted the tip. I was able to straighten it back pretty good. I want to be the one that screws up my saw as then I can only be disappointed with myself, and then move on.

This thread is lacking in images so here is one with the 500i - 36" LW bar cut from both sides.
.

 

[Kodiak Kid]

@Evan that would be packing in on foot for the day. It might be up to 12 miles round trip around Lake Tahoe. We have various entrance points that we might get closer. Not that young any more where I would just bring it all.

First Stihl light weight bars I used was a 28" and 36" on my 500i. What a joy the 36" bar is to use bucking very large trees on trails!

I have not let other sawyers use my saws with the LW-bars as I've seen how they treat and use the organization's saws. And I have money invested in these retirement saws not wanting disappointments when they damage them. One sawyer using my MS261C-M pinched the tip on a limb bind, yup, twisted the tip. I was able to straighten it back pretty good. I want to be the one that screws up my saw as then I can only be disappointed with myself, and then move on.

This thread is lacking in images so here is one with the 500i - 36" LW bar cut from both sides.
.
View attachment 1039448

Yup. Lacking images fir sure! Here's a few pics of my 660 and my 661 setup with a 32" L bars

Cut Safe, stay sharp, and be aware!

 

[bwalker]

LW'ts are great! If you can afford it? I'd definitely recommend it. Two down falls though to LW'ts. One. Definitely more delicate than a standard weight bar and require more pampering. Usually 90% of the time, once bent. There toast. No fixing them. Two. Tips are much more susceptible to throw back. In turn making them much more dangerous for a novice on a power saw. Just my two cents bud. Hope this info helps in your decision!

Cut safe, stay sharp, and be aware!

The tips are the same. Not sure why you think a light bar has a higher chance of kicking back?

 

[Kodiak Kid]

The tips are the same. Not sure why you think a light bar has a higher chance of kicking back?

I didn't say "kick back" I said "throw back" and Im not referring to the tip. I'm referring to the weight of the bars.
Let me explain.
If the wrong part if the tip's circumference catches a heavy object. The tip most likely gets thrown upward and back. "throw back"
When back baring, the saw will often push back and if the chain abruptly grabs wood and stops. The saw will often sometimes "kick back" if the bar isn't hung up. Some Cutters call it "push back".

Dose this all now make any sense?

 

[JPCalifornia]

It’s called saw pushback... very similar to saw push back my wife does when I tell her I’m considering buying another chainsaw...

 

[Kodiak Kid]

It’s called saw pushback... very similar to saw push back my wife does when I tell her I’m considering buying another chainsaw...

"Push back" and "throw back" are two different types of "kick back". Most power saw lacerations to the face are due to "throw back". Most power saw lacerations to the top of the thigh are due to push back. Both being two different types of "kick back"

 

[bwalker]

I didn't say "kick back" I said "throw back" and Im not referring to the tip. I'm referring to the weight of the bars.
Let me explain.
If the wrong part if the tip's circumference catches a heavy object. The tip most likely gets thrown upward and back. "throw back"
When back baring, the saw will often push back and if the chain abruptly grabs wood and stops. The saw will often sometimes "kick back" if the bar isn't hung up. Some Cutters call it "push back".

Dose this all now make any sense?

Your first description of "throwback" is indeed kick back.
I don't see a marginally lighter bar affecting the user all that much. Personally I can't tell the differance other than they are a bit more flexible. If anything a lighter bar will have less momentum than a heavier bar and thus reactive forces would be less.

 

[Kodiak Kid]

Your first description of "throwback" is indeed kick back.
I don't see a marginally lighter bar affecting the user all that much. Personally I can't tell the differance other than they are a bit more flexible. If anything a lighter bar will have less momentum than a heavier bar and thus reactive forces would be less.

Ha ha! Alright man. Whatever you say!And a catapult can throw a heavier rock further than a lighter rock because a heavier rock has more more momentum right?
Alright, look Pard. I'm not going to argue with you about the difference between push back, kick back and throw back. Nor witch of the two bars is more susceptible to any of the actions mentioned above. Ive already posted enough information on the subject. Conduct a test and see for your self.
Good day sir.

Cut safe, stay sharp, and be aware!

 

[bwalker]

Ha ha! Alright man. Whatever you say!And a catapult can throw a heavier rock further than a lighter rock because a heavier rock has more more momentum right?
Alright, look Pard. I'm not going to argue with you about the difference between push back, kick back and throw back. Nor witch of the two bars is more susceptible to any of the actions mentioned above. Ive already posted enough information on the subject. Conduct a test and see for your self.
Good day sir.

Cut safe, stay sharp, and be aware!

Ha ha...whatever you say! Both of what you described are reactive forces which are commonly called kick back.
A bar isn't going to effect this and you pulled that right out of your azz. Unless you can provide some documentation that suggests otherwise?

 

[Kodiak Kid]

Ha ha...whatever you say! Both of what you described are reactive forces which are commonly called kick back.
A bar isn't going to effect this and you pulled that right out of your azz. Unless you can provide some documentation that suggests otherwise?

Yes, Now you get it! tip throw back and saw push back are terms for two different types of kickback. Thankyou fir making my point! Good on ya! Now kick me back a high five or something wood ya? Then after words. Slap on a solid bar then get the saw to throw the tip back at you. Then slap on a light the same length and get it to throw the tip back at you. Then tell me Witch bar responds faster with more force. Then you shall have your documentation.
Thankyou sir that is all.

 

[bwalker]

Yes, Now you get it! tip throw back and saw push back are terms for two different types of kickback. Thankyou fir making my point! Good on ya! Now kick me back a high five or something wood ya? Then after words. Slap on a solid bar then get it to throw the tip back at you. Then slap on a light the same length and get it to throw the tip back at you. Then tell me Witch bar responds faster with more force. Then you shall have your documentation.
Thankyou sir that is all.

If you think I'm making your point your not very sharp.
If what you say is true homeowner saws would come with solid bars instead of lightweight laminated bars. Yet they don't.
I am still waiting for some documentation to back up your half assed theory.
And BTW the heavier bar will always have more reactive force..basic physics here. Force (N) = mass (kg) × acceleration