Hello folks, Finally after weeks and days and months of me learning and troubleshooting my 009. Everything works now,
Issues:
Checked sparkplug seals -
Just badly needed help, got my Stihl 009 been not running for because I cant find a chain sold locally. But now the thing won't run.
Steps made:
New plug
check ground fault , is ok
Carb has been cleaned
Needle lever is flush - set ok
Check fuel lines
New fuel line
New vent line
Fresh fuel
Magneto resistance values has been the same as service manual suggested
I have no compression gauge and spark plug tester but as I've tested myself, removed plug and the sticker my finger through the whole and sealed with a rag, the chamber becomes hot with the compression.
The spark seems weak but burns fuel when left in the air. Acting to start only if left the head open over night but immediately dies.
Played with the jet settings as service manual indicated but no success. I just wish it would only rev to tune it up but seems like the engine becomes flooded and the sparkplug is now unable to burn the fuel. I have to manually drain and let the piston surface dry before it acts to start then dies.
Fuel can be seen moving since the fuel line I've bought was transparent hose with the same diameter.
Reed valve was cleaned and remounted.
Now I have no way of knowing where to trouble shoot the stuff other than bring it to Stihl but the shop's too far roughly 300 miles.
Any input about this problem?
Finally, Made it run and I guess it's now fixed. Not hard to start anymore.
Thanks folks, I've learned A lot I mean a lot about this thing for a month of non stop troubleshooting and learning. Saw runs pretty well now.
Few key points I'd like to tell other people.
1. Your Eyes will fool you, not always but always take a Good look and use proper tools as much as possible
2. Don't fasten and unfasten your spark multiple times during troubleshooting, I had learned this the hard way,I had my cylinder head thread worn out and rethreaded by a Thread repair kit and this was my biggest problem along the way. If you suspect it's a spark plug issue , just buy a new one they're cheap and very common as brush cutters use them out herr at my place. If you see a leak from the sparkplug hole, look what's causing it. I used liquid gasket on the spark plug thread to seal imperfection on the thread and works fine on my case.
Found the main culprit:
The high tension wire seems to be touching the ground somehow in someway. I can't replace the ignition coil because I am in the Philippines and that part is so hard to find especially the genuine one.
As a fix:
Bought a high temp all purpose waterproof hose, and some heatshrink, I rewrapped the high tension wire from the root to the spark plug and voila, the saw came to properly start and run at stihl recommend jet adjustment (2 turns from lightly seated).
Just to make sure I eliminated the possibility then of a broken carb:
I bought a rebuild kit, and rebuilt the carb and its adjustment. It was a Zama C1s-S1c carb with an Rb-11 kit. I bought the kit from shopee or from a chinese-outsourced online seller. I can't find the kit locally as repair shops here mostly repair stihl 070 chainsaw as mostly used here for logging and brush cutters.
I bought a new spark plug along the way of trouble shooting.
I made sure the Coil is in good working condition by looking at coil's description on stihl's manual , took a multimeter and no shorts. I got the same resistance reading as indicated by stihl manual on both primary and secondary coil.
Reset the lever to almost flush, I wasn't able to buy the zama Lever tool but a small gap from flush was working fine to my adjustment. Thanks to the guy, I believe it was around .070 for c1s carbs made by Zama.
Took me the the courage to find a way to disassemble and check if the oiler spring was broken or damage but it took me just a pair of pliers nd was able to clean the inside of the brass fitting and the one way valve parts (ball, spring). I repaired th oiler diaphragm using a small rubber patch and glue, works fine so far but it wont be long. I guess. Holes on the oil cup due to corrosion was patched using a metal epoxy. Now oiler spits oil like hell.
One thing that I did not have the courage is to open the cylinder head and the block. So I was not able to fix the oil leak from the oiler to piston, i just have te let it sit vertically to prevent the oil from entering the bore.
I can't find seals for the oiler so I used the old one and applied liquid gasket, works fine.
Bought a new chain as well. I'll be taking the saw for a 2-hour cutting test to see any performance problems. I just have to probably find the sweet spot for. The carb tuning anyways.
I'll be spotting this post so let me know if you have questions.
