Stihl 020AVP EQ

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django

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Hi all,
I just picked one of these up for a very reasonable price. ( or else I wouldn't have bought it!) I'm no Stihl man, I prefer Sachs-Dolmar,even though I also have an 011AV that is a real nice saw.(again, bought cheap) I believe this is a high RPM saw, 14000 or so, also supposed to be very well built. However I also understand it to be a saw for which there are many service bulletins issued for. I was wondering if anyone had any things I should check for or attend to to make sure it is up to snuff. Also how do I date the saw ? I have no idea how old it is. The cyl looks great and it starts and runs(somewhat rough) turning the high RPM screw seems to yield no change. Thanks ,
Django
 
020

Fussy saw to get right, but when it is, UNBEATABLE in its class.

Carburetor. Clean and install a kit as if you are doing surgery. Hates any dirt. Check pulse hose and fuel hose, adapter and seals. MUST BE PERFECT.

Some of these may have 2 idle speed screws if the carb was updated and someone left the old screw in.

Let me know how you make out with it.:D
 
Mines a pulling beast.
Stihltech is right. The ???? carbs are super sensative to dirt on this model for some reason.
 
020

There are saws you can just fix have them work, this ain't one of them. Prepare like a surgeon and take all the time you need to make sure everything is right and it will work the first time.
 
A few more questions

Is it just me or does the flywheel have to come off to get the intake boot off? Also, the pulse tube looks to be in need of replacement. ( not orig.) Do I get the tube from Stihl, or is it O.K. to make one from tygon tubing? The cast elbow for the pulse has been replaced with steel, so at least that's done. . Do you think I need to vacuum/pressure test the saw also? What is the recommended no-load speed for this model?P.S., A carb kit for the Walbro WA-1 was only $6.75. Seems like a good deal.
Thanks in advance,
Django
 
020

Yep, flywheel has to come off. Use the ubing you have, but make it the same length. An air test is alwats a good idea, this saw must be perfect to run correctly.
 
Well I rebuilt the carb, and tried a press/vac test. The thing has such a bad air leak that you can't adjust the idle speed. It idles pretty high with the screw turned all the way in.The "bracket" that the carb. mounts flush to and also the boot, is BENT. and letting air in. I have no idea how this could happen but it is. I think it is magnesium. To my knowledge, you can't bend mag. very much or it breaks. I am going to try to bend it back close, and put it in the mill and reface it. Nothing to lose. SHEESH. I hate air leaks.
 
IT LIVES

What a fussy little PITA to make run right. I lnow you said this, but, the thing nearly drove me crazy. One wicked sounding and cutting little saw though. I,m still partial to Sachs Dolmar, but this is a good one.
Thanks for all the tips,
Django
 
i know this is an old thread, but Im dredgin it up (see, I used search function) Im working on one of my twin 020's and you aint lying when you said they are sensitive. I wanted to throw both them sum?????es against the shop floor a dozen times. But, like you all said, once they run, they are a sweet little saw.
 
Ax-man (Larry is his real name) has the most old style 020's of anyone that I know. He might be able to give you some assistance in helping you get your saws up and running.
 
Hi Brad,

Those 020's can give you fits, I know all to well, everything that applies to chainsaw rebuilding and maintenance applies to an 020, no short cuts on this saw.

Know any 26/24 experts ????

Larry
 
My problem with one of mine is the damn thing screams like a banshee IF you can get it to rev to high side. only way it will idle is 2 and a half turns out on l screw, and it doesnt want to accelerate to high rpm. It will die if ya turn the screw too far either way, but no dice on getting it to rev right. Its also a pain to start cold, wants to flood bad. The plug usually has gas on it.
 
Hi Lake,

I don't have any 24/26 projects going at the moment, just giving Brad an opening, he is such a frequent poster ya know.

Bowtie,

Have to along with Lake on the air leak thing, an air leak can be anywhere on an 020, the common places are the clutch side crank seal, this usually = a bad bearing, next is at the bottom of the jug due to a bad gasket or loose screws, the carb boot around the intake port, lastly check the bottom of your saw for deep pitting in the crankcase, if it has a rotten bottom this is also a source for an airleak. It is really hard to pinpoint airleaks without a pressure/ vac tester. Many saws will pass the pressure test but flunk the vaccum test.
 

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