Wanted to post this in case it helps someone else.
I have a Stihl 024 AV Super that was hard to start, but after starting ran well. However, it would start just fine if I used a rubber band to hold the throttle trigger all the way in for the CHOKE and START Master Control lever positions.
Investigation showed no fuel was being delivered to the cylinder for the CHOKE and START Master Control lever positions without the rubber band. Based on information here, I purchased a new Master Control lever. Still no good. Then I bought a new throttle trigger because the ledge that engages the Master Control lever was worn and rounded over and wasn't catching. Still no good. After all of that, I noticed that the throttle rod had so much slack in it that it wasn't actually moving the throttle shaft on the carburetor body when the Master Control lever was in the CHOKE or START positions.
The solution was to bend some of the angles in the throttle rod so that it was lengthened enough to take out all of the throttle trigger slack so that the slightest depression of the throttle immediately actuates the carburetor throttle shaft. (I also installed a little wooden shim to occupy the space at the bottom of the carburetor housing between the right of the throttle rod and the right hand side of the carburetor housing to keep the throttle rod from bowing out to the right when the throttle trigger is depressed. Not sure if a new throttle rod would have fixed that issue without the shim.)
Now my 024 starts AND runs like a brand new chainsaw!
(BTW, a couple of years ago I replaced the original Walbro WT22 carburetor with a Walbro WT-194-1 carburetor and don't know if that was a factor in the slack throttle rod or not).
I have a Stihl 024 AV Super that was hard to start, but after starting ran well. However, it would start just fine if I used a rubber band to hold the throttle trigger all the way in for the CHOKE and START Master Control lever positions.
Investigation showed no fuel was being delivered to the cylinder for the CHOKE and START Master Control lever positions without the rubber band. Based on information here, I purchased a new Master Control lever. Still no good. Then I bought a new throttle trigger because the ledge that engages the Master Control lever was worn and rounded over and wasn't catching. Still no good. After all of that, I noticed that the throttle rod had so much slack in it that it wasn't actually moving the throttle shaft on the carburetor body when the Master Control lever was in the CHOKE or START positions.
The solution was to bend some of the angles in the throttle rod so that it was lengthened enough to take out all of the throttle trigger slack so that the slightest depression of the throttle immediately actuates the carburetor throttle shaft. (I also installed a little wooden shim to occupy the space at the bottom of the carburetor housing between the right of the throttle rod and the right hand side of the carburetor housing to keep the throttle rod from bowing out to the right when the throttle trigger is depressed. Not sure if a new throttle rod would have fixed that issue without the shim.)
Now my 024 starts AND runs like a brand new chainsaw!
(BTW, a couple of years ago I replaced the original Walbro WT22 carburetor with a Walbro WT-194-1 carburetor and don't know if that was a factor in the slack throttle rod or not).
