Stihl 026 hard starting?

[Old2stroke]

Many posts have explained part of the problem with getting these saws started is due to the dumb-ass design of the choke. Rather then the choke being part of the carb, it is built into the air filter and if it doesn't close properly go buy a new one and hope that it works better.
Another problem has to do with the control lever. Even though the marks on the cover next to the lever indicate there is a fast idle position where the throttle is held partly open for proper starting, there is no detent to hold the lever in this position. Normally when starting a cold saw, you go to full choke with the lever and this closes the choke (hopefully) and latches the throttle partly open, then you pull until the engine pops and sounds like it wants to start, then you lift the lever to the fast idle position where the choke is off but the throttle is still latched open. On this saw there is no real detent at this position and when you lift the lever from full choke, it goes directly to the idle/run position which is basically a closed throttle position and it is VERY difficult to get a cold saw started with the throttle closed. The solution is to note the position of the plastic cam against the spring where there should be a detent and dremel a small notch in the cam to provide a proper detent for that position. Come on Stihl, how did this ever get into production? Same person who later designed flippy caps?

 

[Wood Doctor]

Most of these problems were fixed with the 026 PRO. That's why I still own two of them. They also do not have any problems holding the fast idle detent position. I never have a problemn cold starting either of them.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

I just rebuilt an old 024 AVS and it had some problems with the bends/tension on the spring for it to engage properly and took some fiddling to make it hit all positions and not foul once in the "kill" position so it could be set back to run- but my one DOES sit happily at high idle between choke and run, so maybe a touch or two from a file will solve that for you and the lever is just well worn from use?
The choke being where it is- well that you kind of have to live with or update to later parts.

 

[Wood Doctor]

That lever can wear from use, especially after 20 years or so. I have reshaped several of these back to their original shape and suddenly they worked once again. It's usually worth a try.

 

[82F100SWB]

If it doesn't have a high idle position something is wrong. Never ever ran across an 026/260 that had issues with no high idle position. Lever must be worn.

 

[SteveSr]

Many posts have explained part of the problem with getting these saws started is due to the dumb-ass design of the choke. Rather then the choke being part of the carb, it is built into the air filter and if it doesn't close properly go buy a new one and hope that it works better.
Another problem has to do with the control lever. Even though the marks on the cover next to the lever indicate there is a fast idle position where the throttle is held partly open for proper starting, there is no detent to hold the lever in this position. Normally when starting a cold saw, you go to full choke with the lever and this closes the choke (hopefully) and latches the throttle partly open, then you pull until the engine pops and sounds like it wants to start, then you lift the lever to the fast idle position where the choke is off but the throttle is still latched open. On this saw there is no real detent at this position and when you lift the lever from full choke, it goes directly to the idle/run position which is basically a closed throttle position and it is VERY difficult to get a cold saw started with the throttle closed. The solution is to note the position of the plastic cam against the spring where there should be a detent and dremel a small notch in the cam to provide a proper detent for that position. Come on Stihl, how did this ever get into production? Same person who later designed flippy caps?

If the detent spring works like it should then it is likely the throttle stop has been broken off of the master control lever rod. This can happen if someone forces the MCL into choke WITHOUT first squeezing the throttle trigger. Take a close look at the throttle lock cam on the MCL rod as you run the MCL through all its states. Yes, the MCL is a mechanical state machine.

 

[PV Hiker]

Rod and thin metal go cattywampus when controls are moved without the air cleaner attached.

 

[Patrick62]

Yea, it is a cheesy design, compared to the usual build quality of some of the other saws... but it worked.
I have never had issues with my 260's starting, Duncan has a 026 the only difference is the tang on the air cleaner vs the fancy nuts that hold it on.
What would have been really nice would have been a 1/2 size version of the HD filter that the larger saws had, and a real choke.

Best thing I ever did was to upgrade to the 194 carburetor on this saw. She's a screamer now. for 10 something pounds and pulls a 18" bar with some balls it does just fine.

 

[Old2stroke]

As usual, people have read the post and paid little attention to what was said. There was no wear on the cam and the spring that does the detenting was in perfect shape, nothing was bent, broken or misaligned. Where there should have been a notch in the plastic cam to hold the MCL in the fast idle position there was none and showed no evidence of ever having been one. As mentioned I FIXED it by carving a notch where it should have been. Owner of the saw says it had always been like that and the saw has had relatively little use, just clean-up stuff around the property. Maybe a faulty MCL that made it into the production line?

 

[SteveSr]

Maybe a faulty MCL that made it into the production line?

Sounds possible...

If you really want to see Rube Goldstihl just look at the 034 choke linkage. Makes the 024/026 look well designed!