Stihl 028WB Chain Saw ? Starts but won?t run

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Also to add to the thread, a used electronic coil off of an 029 or many other newer saws can be used, just cut the wire to the points, hook up
the kill wire, and bolt it on and go.
 
thank you for this thread!

Just recently picked up a 028wb on creigslist because I wanted a more professional saw for firewood. Been using a disposable 14"poulan which has been fine for me for a while but when it comes to the big stuff, doesnt cut it. Anyway. got a great deal on it and it ran great at first! Went to go cut some wood on the side of the road that the tree crews have been clearing the powerlines and it died on me half way through the first piece of wood. I first turned to the filter/gas line and they seemed fine, it was seeming to get plenty of gas! spraying back out the rear of the carb. I checked spark and had one so maybe throw another plug in....
I quickly turned to google and wondered if anyone else had this same problem with this saw.... This is where I found my answer. twenty bucks later for a chip and put it in without pulling the flywheel off,,the thing started with about a half of a pull on the rope. I love that saw, runs great!

Thank you so much all for posting these helpful tips. big help!:chainsaw:
 
What did we do before the internet

I am new member and am I ever glad I found this website.

Thank you Erndawg for your posting. I bought the electronic ignition on ebay (STIHL 028WB IGNITION) for twenty bucks. Worked just as everyone said. I have spent a couple of hours working on the carb. wish i would have started with the electronic ignition.

Thank you everyone for your postings...Eric
 
Happy to Help

Glad this post has seen some traffic and was able to provide some help. It was nice, too, to see greatful comments from members. Makes it worth the effort.

Saw On
 
I just wanted to update my posting, In my case I had a bad coil in the end. I thought it was the chip and I put in the chip twice, my saw worked but only for about 10 min, each time. I was instructed that I just needed to switch to an electronic coil. So for 40 dollars, the saw runs mint now. Thanks again.
Erndawg:bang:
 
I just wanted to update my posting, In my case I had a bad coil in the end. I thought it was the chip and I put in the chip twice, my saw worked but only for about 10 min, each time. I was instructed that I just needed to switch to an electronic coil. So for 40 dollars, the saw runs mint now. Thanks again.
Erndawg:bang:

So who else instructed you to just needed to switch?
 
just to add to the older saw owners knowledge base...

I've had more than a few 028's and they are good saws. Just remember that alcohol in gasoline will ruin the fuel line over time especially if you leave fuel in it all the time. I picked up a seized 028 a while back for 25 bucks that had very light use over it's life. Found the fuel line in the tank looked like it had been stretched out to the point where it wouldn't hardly flow fuel any more. This is what alcohol does to them-turns them into sticky gum. Anyway, the cylinder cleaned up fine and with a new meteor piston/rings and a new fuel line I had an almost new saw. Replace the fuel lines every so often on any saw especially the older ones. 12 dollars is cheap insurance.
 
I first bought the electronic chip from "lil Red Barn". The first one they gave me did the trick, I thought but worked for only ten min. So they thought they had a bad batch, they sent another, the second one did the same thing, So I called and told them what the issue was and they figured I needed a new coil. For an additional 20 bucks, they sent a new coil and now it has run perfect for months..
 
Here's to the Fish...

Also to add to the thread, a used electronic coil off of an 029 or many other newer saws can be used, just cut the wire to the points, hook up the kill wire, and bolt it on and go.
Fish, I was going to echo your analysis but OP solved it anyway. I ran into this same problem with an 046 and more recently with an older 084. All I did was pull the ignition module out and clean both it and the whole area around the flywheel. That rejuventated the spark and the engines in both machines both started purring like kittens once again. Both run today, the 046 after two years of hard work since the repair and both are using the original IM.

So much trash and goop can build up around the coil that one has to wonder how more of them don't short out or shut down more often than they do.
 
028

Wow what a great thread and some great information, I have an 028 av super and id its great to know what to do and what to look for if my saw peters out. Thanks guys.:clap:
 
Wow what a great thread and some great information, I have an 028 av super and id its great to know what to do and what to look for if my saw peters out. Thanks guys.:clap:

Note that this thread applies to both the 028 and just about any saw that Stihl makes. Many repair shops would proabably have replaced the coil (IM) automatically and sold you a part costing $100 and added another $50 for labor. Then they would added a new spark plug, replaced the fuel filter, thrown in another $20 for good measure, and you would have walked away after dropping about $200 or so.
 
Ok, I ruled out some things, I think.

(1) I switched the gasket/main diaphragm order and (2) set the inlet control lever so it is flush with the diaphragm floor. It was pretty high, so I bent it down a tad. A high lever would mean a rich setting, right? So it should be more lean now. I think that I see less (none) raw fuel coming out of the muffler now too.

(3) I pulled the muffler and had a 2-stroke dirt biker friend look at the piston. He thinks it looks fine. The rings move freely up/down. (4) He also confirmed I was getting good compression. (5) The muffler was not restricting flow.

Fish, I re-checked spark. (6) I really am getting a good spark with every piston cycle. I know spark changes under comression, but the saw will start pretty reliably - just won't run.

I re-checked fuel flow through the filter...Yuck. There has to be a better way. (7) It flows!

So I ruled out what, 7 things? I could not see if the key was sheared. Almost had the flywheel pulled off using a bicycle crank remover tool. It was the wrong thread pitch. I'll see if my dirt biker friend has a puller that fits.

So the saw will now only start with throttle closed. Runs for a few seconds - dies. If I feather the throttle it "baw-baws" and dies. The H/L screws are at 1 1/4 TO per OEM. Minor tweaks seem to have no influence. Little or no raw fuel at muffler. Fuel still sprays back at me when I open the throttle while pulling.

WHAT NEXT?

Captain Larry:msp_huh:

On checking the fuel flow. I use a dollar turkey baster for that. Tom
 
I thought to get on here and look around regarding my Jotul Firelight and a Granberg Saw Mill. And and I saw I had a recent PM looking for the photos on this old post. It has been a long time since I've been on. Things have changed. I'm now dubbed a lurker and good'old Fish is on Account Hold. I don't know where the photos went. I'll try to post them again.

Saw Overview
1 Stihl 028 Overview.jpg
Original Points and Condenser
3 Stihl 028 Points - Condenser.jpg

Ignition Removed
4 Stihl 028 Ignition Removed.jpg

NAPA Part
5 Napa 7-01749 Omega Ignition Module.jpg

Housing wire hole sealed.
6 Stihl 028 Wire Hole Sealed.jpg

Saw ready for new ignition.
7 Stihl 028 Ready for Module.jpg
Module Installed
8 Stihl 028 Module Installed Annotated.JPG

Hope this helps.
Now on to my original searches!
 

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