Stihl 036 Oiler Line

[Griffbm3]

Good Evening Everybody:

First of all, thank you all for your help in the past with some of my questions and input about some saws. I have just got an Olympic 254f for $60 and it was an original owner saw with hardly any use on it. I have decided that it has taken over as my loner saw (people love it)...

I also just got a great 036 PRO, mostly to counter the Farmboss which will incidentally vibrate your elbow clean off if given the chance. When I talked to the previous owner about the 036 he was worried because it was getting "hard to start". I changed the plug, new gas, and it started first pull. But he also said that the oiler was bad. It is not, but the oiler line is... Is there an easier way to replace the oiler line while everything is still in place? The bar end of the line is where my question really lies. The pump end is easy to figure out. Is there a trick to this??

Also, should I keep 20" 3/8 or go for the 20" .325? I have loops of each, but I was wondering what people thought of the setup difference in Oak and Beech here in New England.

Thanks again everyone, and a big thanks to Lakeside for always answering my questions.

Jason

 

[Lakeside53]

It's PITA...

You have to take off the clutch and oiler etc. There is an oil line kit that contains a very stiff hose and a spring that goes inside. You have to cut the line exactly to length, heat up the line and pump nipple and insert it on the oil pump (let it cool while straight...). The line is then pushed though the casing (use lots of lube) , the oil pump pressed down and screwed into place, and the brass tube inserted in the end.

It's MUCH easier to use a piece of fuel line, but it doens't last more than a couple of years, and can get kinked/blocked.

 

[Dadatwins]

No tricks its just like Lakeside said a PIA. Be extra careful with the screws that hold the pump down, they are short and will strip easy.