Want to Sell Stihl 036 PRO with 20" bar now FUBARed NEED ADVICE

[Derrick Sawyer]

For SALE Very good condition Stihl 036 PRO saw.
Still has remnants of original sticker from factory, made in Virginia Beach, USA
Come with 20" Stihl bar 3/8 0.050 and chain with a lot of meat left but could use sharpening

DETAILS:
3/8 rim sprocket on clutch drum
Muffler had surface rust which is typical for this year and model, was painted with black stove paint
Muffler is stock with screen still installed
Piston had scratches, was replaced with Meteor piston, cylinder was ball honed briefly at dealer and looks fine.
Also replaced with new carb kit, fuel filter and fuel line impulse line cylinder base gasket and piston pin bearing all OEM

Saw starts and runs great, oils great, good candidate to keep stock or port.
Only has 1/2 tank since rebuild, look very very clean.

Asking $450, already have more than that into this saw.

 

[showrguy]

doubt that'll last long..
nice saw..

 

[HD2010]

doubt that'll last long..
nice saw..

No doubt. I am fighting it now. I don't need another saw. I don't need another saw.

 

[fields_mj]

I gave $200 even for mine in '09. Wasn't quite that good, but still in really good shape. It was a great deal no doubt. In '10 the same guy had an 034 Super freshly rebuilt for $185. I was buying my 064 off of him at the time and couldn't swing the $$ for a second saw and was afraid of what my wife would do if she watched me unload 2 saws from the back of the truck instead of just one...

Not saying the saw isn't worth $450, but if you already have more than that in it, then you paid way to much for it. Even in excelent condition, I'd be hard pressed to give that kind of $$ for a saw that's at least 12 years old. That's just my 2 bits though. Based on what I've witnessed in our economy over the past 20 years, I'd say there are thousands of folks out there that are willing to pay lots of extra $$ for things that look pretty. I really do hope you're able to find some of them. Nice saw either way though.

 

[DexterDay]

I sold my ported 036 for $600. It's not impossible to get that much.

Heck, on eBay, this saw would fetch at least that (then deduct about 15%-20% for eBay fees and PayPal).

 

[Duane(Pa)]

I gave $200 even for mine in '09. Wasn't quite that good, but still in really good shape. It was a great deal no doubt. In '10 the same guy had an 034 Super freshly rebuilt for $185. I was buying my 064 off of him at the time and couldn't swing the $$ for a second saw and was afraid of what my wife would do if she watched me unload 2 saws from the back of the truck instead of just one...

Not saying the saw isn't worth $450, but if you already have more than that in it, then you paid way to much for it. Even in excelent condition, I'd be hard pressed to give that kind of $$ for a saw that's at least 12 years old. That's just my 2 bits though. Based on what I've witnessed in our economy over the past 20 years, I'd say there are thousands of folks out there that are willing to pay lots of extra $$ for things that look pretty. I really do hope you're able to find some of them. Nice saw either way though.

What are you doing? MYOFB Do some reading in the stickies at the top of the forum.

 

[Derrick Sawyer]

Well I guess I could have sold the saw cheaper without a bar and with cheap parts instead of OEM, but its done right. Some people like old beatup saws for cheap, some buy a new ms290 for the same amount i'm asking, whatever floats your boat, but I'm not about to comment on someone who for instance is selling a very good condition stihl ms260 pro who is asking $400 about how I bought a good condition 026 for $60, or when I bought a beatup old 034 for $75 which included an old school case. I'm sure people even get saws for free, but you may have to wait a couples years for the really good deals.

 

[HD2010]

I think this saw is a great deal. I don't see it lasting much longer.

 

[Red Elm]

I switched to Dolmars a few years back, but I have to say one of the best firewood saws I ever owned was a 036 Pro just like that one. Brought back alot of good memories.

I gave $200 even for mine in '09. Wasn't quite that good, but still in really good shape. It was a great deal no doubt. In '10 the same guy had an 034 Super freshly rebuilt for $185. I was buying my 064 off of him at the time and couldn't swing the $$ for a second saw and was afraid of what my wife would do if she watched me unload 2 saws from the back of the truck instead of just one...

Not saying the saw isn't worth $450, but if you already have more than that in it, then you paid way to much for it. Even in excelent condition, I'd be hard pressed to give that kind of $$ for a saw that's at least 12 years old. That's just my 2 bits though. Based on what I've witnessed in our economy over the past 20 years, I'd say there are thousands of folks out there that are willing to pay lots of extra $$ for things that look pretty. I really do hope you're able to find some of them. Nice saw either way though.

Man, don't tromp on another man's add. You wouldnt like it if someone did that to you. That's plain uncouth!

 

[S Tebo]

Well I guess I could have sold the saw cheaper without a bar and with cheap parts instead of OEM, but its done right. Some people like old beatup saws for cheap, some buy a new ms290 for the same amount i'm asking, whatever floats your boat, but I'm not about to comment on someone who for instance is selling a very good condition stihl ms260 pro who is asking $400 about how I bought a good condition 026 for $60, or when I bought a beatup old 034 for $75 which included an old school case. I'm sure people even get saws for free, but you may have to wait a couples years for the really good deals.

I paid $350 for my Minty 036 Pro, which was PHO (and I know I got a great deal on the saw given its condition). Add the price of a Stihl B&C and you'd be pretty damn close. I'm amazed at what that saw can do every time I pick it up. I am lucky enough to have several saws to pick from, but more times than not- I find myself putting my 260 Pro and 036 Pro in the trailer when I head out into the woods. Now that I know just how good these saws are considering their cc's & weight, I would have gladly paid $100 more for a clean one like this. GLWS! Scott

 

[Derrick Sawyer]

Well guys the saw is not for sale anymore, not sold, more like fubared. I was cutting up some logs for firewood, figured i'd put some tanks in the saw to start getting the rings to seat, and I noticed some fluid seeping from under the muffler and also around cylinder. I thought maybe I had the saw too rich, so I leaned it out (still four stroking at WOT) and it was cutting real well, but was still leaking. I took the muffler cover off and got that lousy surprise we have all experienced, the piston was getting scored.

At this point I'm completely stumped, a new base gasket was installed, cylinder bolts snugged tight and torque checked, new impulse line fuel filter and fuel line, checked tank vent-OK, compression right after build was 150, squish was 0.030", and it held good vacuum with the flange adaptor that bolts where the carb is.

I dismantled the saw and took some pics, see below. I could use some advice at this point, guess i'll be selling another saw for the family vacation, if you could call it a vacation with 5 kids who are 7 and under.

Looks like it may have been leaking out the clutch side seal, or there was a bad bar oil leak. And the cylinder was wet around the base and up a little, and at the front and back, so probably not just leaking out the muffler gasket. Could also be the case gasket? Tough to tell, but I was under the impression if it held vacuum, it was good to go. At this point one part of you want to sell for parts, other part of you want to find the problem, of course needs a new $40 meteor piston and seal kit and who know what else, don't want to get into a can of worms.

 

[DexterDay]

Was it smoking heavily? Out of the muffler? If so? It could have been a bad case gasket. When the saw was tipped just right, it's sucks air. When tipped the other way? It's pulling oil into the crankcase. A buddies MS 460 was doing this not to long ago.

It was pretty evident through the amount of smoke (and oil) out of the exhaust port.

 

[MillerModSaws]

Was it smoking heavily? Out of the muffler? If so? It could have been a bad case gasket. When the saw was tipped just right, it's sucks air. When tipped the other way? It's pulling oil into the crankcase. A buddies MS 460 was doing this not to long ago.

It was pretty evident through the amount of smoke (and oil) out of the exhaust port.

That one might be hard to catch. He could remove the bar oil cap and pressure check for that though correct?

 

[Derrick Sawyer]

Come to think of it when I first got the saw it ran but did spit fluid out exhaust, I presumed it was running too rich and after I rebuilt the carb it does smoke at first but then seems to be fine and doesn't leak fluid out exhaust. Would a case gasket pass a vacuum test but not a pressure test? Sounds like I really need to do both now, but I had heard sometimes its the other way around where they pass pressure test but not vacuum. Thanks for the tip.

 

[old-cat]

Sounds like a mystery to me. Seals for a project like that should be automatic, no testing necessary. You say it was ball honed, how was it cleaned afterward?
The exhaust port shows a leak at the bottom.

 

[DexterDay]

Come to think of it when I first got the saw it ran but did spit fluid out exhaust, I presumed it was running too rich and after I rebuilt the carb it does smoke at first but then seems to be fine and doesn't leak fluid out exhaust. Would a case gasket pass a vacuum test but not a pressure test? Sounds like I really need to do both now, but I had heard sometimes its the other way around where they pass pressure test but not vacuum. Thanks for the tip.

If the tank was full? Then it likely may have?

That one might be hard to catch. He could remove the bar oil cap and pressure check for that though correct?

I wasn't implying he start and run it to check. Just more of an observation on his part? If he noticed oil out the exhaust.

I wouldn't want him to incur any other damage. But as you said? He could empty the oil tank and check it. Or check the saw again, but with an empty tank? Unless it was empty at time of rebuild?

 

[nmurph]

Come to think of it when I first got the saw it ran but did spit fluid out exhaust, I presumed it was running too rich and after I rebuilt the carb it does smoke at first but then seems to be fine and doesn't leak fluid out exhaust. Would a case gasket pass a vacuum test but not a pressure test? Sounds like I really need to do both now, but I had heard sometimes its the other way around where they pass pressure test but not vacuum. Thanks for the tip.

There are no absolutes- yes, usually it will pass pressure but not vacuum.

Did you say you honed the cylinder? I'm betting the tech over honed it and removed the plating. Do you happen to have any pics of it after it came back from the dealer but bf you mounted it.

 

[zogger]

Really weird but as soon as I read hone I thought, dealer cobjob shortcut. Clean a cylinder with fine grit sand paper and scotch brite, if real bad, some acid first and plenty of rinsing. And then the rings in the bore for a roundness check.

sucks but crap happens taking shortcuts..don't ask me how I know this...HAHAHAHAHA

 

[jughead500]

See if it has the shielded crank bearings.been there and going through it now with a very low hour non pro 036.the shielded bearings cause build up in the seals.from what ive seen its an instantaneous melt down just about.

 

[Derrick Sawyer]

Thanks for all the thoughts, cylinder before and after the hone looked fine, no buildup or edges to catch a nail, which is strange since the piston was scored so quickly, I thought maybe it lost a c clip but no they are still there. The dealer has inspected and honed cylinders for me before with no problems, and the guy who has owned the saw shop for 30 years did the job himself, handed it back said it looked like it should be fine, just to wash away the WD40, which I did. These guys just deal saws and I trust them pretty good. I'll inspect the cylinder again and make sure the piston skirt is still tight when placed bottom side in. Is the idea that blow by would cause this? I'm still confused how the fluid buildup was around the cylinder front side and back with a good vac test and the saw was still cutting real well, but at this point a case gasket and crank seals sounds like a good start.

I think I'll just take it to them to have a look and tell me what they think, they won't charge for advice since I bought a saw and many parts from them in the past. They stock the kit to replace the clutch drum with the larger needle bearing and 3/8 pitch from the original .325. I'll report back with any findings, probably by end of this weekend.