Stihl 036 pro won't oil

[paintgiant]

Ok fellas so here's the deal, I got a 036 pro awhile ago and although it runs amazing it won't oil. Tried turning up the oiler screw but made no difference. I did all this with the bar and chain off. It seemed like some bar oil was coming out of the seam between the removable piece surrounding the sprocket. I just happened to notice oil was there after I turned the saw off but never once did it seem like it was oozing out of there when teh saw was on. I know I need to take that removable piece off around the sprocket to get a look at the oiler and line but what do I look for? Do I just buy an oiler pump and line?

 

[SkippyKtm]

Ok fellas so here's the deal, I got a 036 pro awhile ago and although it runs amazing it won't oil. Tried turning up the oiler screw but made no difference. I did all this with the bar and chain off. It seemed like some bar oil was coming out of the seam between the removable piece surrounding the sprocket. I just happened to notice oil was there after I turned the saw off but never once did it seem like it was oozing out of there when teh saw was on. I know I need to take that removable piece off around the sprocket to get a look at the oiler and line but what do I look for? Do I just buy an oiler pump and line?

There is a variety of things that can go wrong with those oilers, but the most common thing is the tip of the driver could be worn off. The driver is simply a bent wire (about the same gauge as a coat hanger wire) that wraps around the oiler worm gear. The tip of it engages into a small slot on the rim of the clutch drum, and that tip is the part that wears away.

 

[tramp bushler]

yes. That can happen. but ime. its usually a plugged pump. or a plugged pickup line. If you take the clutch off you can then take the oiler off. take the pump out of the pump houseing, theres probably some crap in it wash it out real good and put it back together. drain the oil tank and with the oil tank cap OFF. blow the line out with your air hose. careful not to loose the pickup filter. rinse the oil tank out with gas real good. also blow out the oil tank vent. then reassemble the saw. fill with oil. with the bar and clutch cover off, start the saw and let the clutch spin for a couple minutes. Goose the saw a few times and it should be pumping lots of oil.

 

[SkippyKtm]

yes. That can happen. but ime. its usually a plugged pump. or a plugged pickup line. If you take the clutch off you can then take the oiler off. take the pump out of the pump houseing, theres probably some crap in it wash it out real good and put it back together. drain the oil tank and with the oil tank cap OFF. blow the line out with your air hose. careful not to loose the pickup filter. rinse the oil tank out with gas real good. also blow out the oil tank vent. then reassemble the saw. fill with oil. with the bar and clutch cover off, start the saw and let the clutch spin for a couple minutes. Goose the saw a few times and it should be pumping lots of oil.

Yep, agreed. I didn't feel like typing all the rest of the possibilities...:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[showrguy]

hey,
you guys left out the part about the oil pump tube/hose being a royal pain in the azz !!

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

hey,
you guys left out the part about the oil pump tube/hose being a royal pain in the azz !!

Yep. And if replaced improperly somewhere along the line, it may be pinched to the point of restricting oil flow. There are a few "easier to manage" alternatives to using that particular line, btw.

Poge

 

[Oddvaark]

I had a similar problem with my 3120. I drained the oil from the oil reservoir and flushed it 3 times with gas. This I did after replacing the oil pump. I wish I would have done the flushing 1st ! IRONICALLY , THE SCREEN LOOKED CLEAN AS A WHISTLE , and probably was until it sucked up what ever it was I flushed out !

 

[paintgiant]

thanks a lot for all of the responses, I will try flushing and cleaning first before I replacing the and hosing. As always thank you for the great advice, this site never ceases to amaze me.

 

[Mad Professor]

If you need to replace the outlet line get the OEM kit from stihl.

There is enough line to do two saws in case you screw up. You need to heat , but not melt, the ends of the line to get it to slip over the pump and outlet nipple. Don't omit the metal inner casing or the tubing will kink.

 

[TonyRumore]

There's a rubber hose off the end of the 036 pump that is probably cracked and dumping the oil out before it gets to the bar.

P/N 1124 007 1010

Tony

 

[Mad Professor]

There's a rubber hose off the end of the 036 pump that is probably cracked and dumping the oil out before it gets to the bar.

P/N 1124 007 1010

Tony

That's the hose I mentioned above. It's not rubber but a tough hard thermoplastic with an inner steel coil liner

See: http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/96696.htm

 

[huskydavid]

If you need to replace the outlet line get the OEM kit from stihl.

There is enough line to do two saws in case you screw up. You need to heat , but not melt, the ends of the line to get it to slip over the pump and outlet nipple. Don't omit the metal inner casing or the tubing will kink.

can oil resistant fuel line work for oil line that goes up to bar plate?

 

[SteveSr]

can oil resistant fuel line work for oil line that goes up to bar plate?

No, In this application it will kink. That is why the spring goes inside the hose. Best to use the correct OEM part.

 

[Mad Professor]

can oil resistant fuel line work for oil line that goes up to bar plate?

You can connect the pump first too.

PITA to get the hose over pump nipple. A little oil on nipple and gently heat the hose. Heat it too much and it turns to mush. Brass nipple insert makes hose interference fit in case

Kit has enough hose to do two saws, or try again if you screw up the hose.

Don't forget the spring or the hose will kink.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Nice to see a 10 year old thread revived!

The OEM line looks easier said than done and I've done a few of em. If you still have the spring from the old line, use whatever line you have handy that will accommodate the spring and still fit the channel and through the hole to the bar pad. Start at the pump nipple as suggested. Cut the hose to length diagonally at the bar pad and you're done. Otherwise, good luck with the OEM kit. They can be a hassle.

The main consideration is to not use so much line that it can flex laterally into the path of the clutch assembly -- which is generally what destroys them in the first place when the smaller needle cage bearings fail in the earlier clutches.

 

[ironman_gq]

Boiling water works great to heat the tubing without getting it too hot.

 

[grizz55chev]

yes. That can happen. but ime. its usually a plugged pump. or a plugged pickup line. If you take the clutch off you can then take the oiler off. take the pump out of the pump houseing, theres probably some crap in it wash it out real good and put it back together. drain the oil tank and with the oil tank cap OFF. blow the line out with your air hose. careful not to loose the pickup filter. rinse the oil tank out with gas real good. also blow out the oil tank vent. then reassemble the saw. fill with oil. with the bar and clutch cover off, start the saw and let the clutch spin for a couple minutes. Goose the saw a few times and it should be pumping lots of oil.

Running the saw with the clutch cover off and piss reving the engine is asking for the clutch to go sailing across the yard and up the street, been there more than once.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

It has an inboard clutch with an 'e' clip keeping the drum (and a loose clutch) on the shaft during a blip fest without the cover.

 

[cookies]

can oil resistant fuel line work for oil line that goes up to bar plate?

No, it will get soft from the heat then slide out of the bar plate or off the pump or simply kink. You need to use the hard plastic hose kit with the anti collapse spring and brass grommet. I don't even bother heating the hose. I simply slide the hose through the bar plate and shove it on the pump in one slow forceful movement then mark the line with the pump bolted in place, unbolt the pump and shift it to the left to trim the line with a razor blade, insert spring and slide the pump and the line out of the bar plate as far as possible. Grab the line with needle nose or hemostats and force the grommet in, then bolt the pump in, dragging the line into the bar plate locking the line end in place.
Never pull the line back off once installed on the pump or pull the grommet out, the line will kink or not seal properly if you do. This is the time to take the pump apart to clean it and inspect the pump body for wear from the pump shaft. Replace the pickup hose and flush the tank and pickup.

 

[grizz55chev]

It has an inboard clutch with an 'e' clip keeping the drum (and a loose clutch) on the shaft during a blip fest without the cover.

Oops, it's early here in the west!