Look up the thread 'mediaCat chain letter' and get a copy of the CD/DVD.
Although dated 2012 it is invaluable if you are going to tinker with Stihl saws.
Although dated 2012 it is invaluable if you are going to tinker with Stihl saws.
Stihl 041 AV Super clutch question?
- Thread starter texican65
- Start date
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New needle bearing and new rim sprocket?
Hope you didn't ruin the new needle cage by smashing it. The carrier torque is 25.3 #-ft.
The cup faces in, towards the saw, on that larger washer.
The drum should always freewheel with some side play like Carl said, so you've got it in a bind before it was ever tightened. Check for play before you ever torque the carrier down!
If there is no play & if the small spacer washer OD is shaft size, then you may have to leave it out. There were 2 drive pin plates, one flat faced & one with a raised snout on it. If the drive plate is raised, you won't need the shaft spacer.
The step on the shaft is what the carrier butts up against, smashing the cupped washer in between.
Post a close up picture of the shaft step with only the bearing & sprocket drum installed, w/o the clutch & cupped washer, as that crank step needs to be about 0.020" outside (farther out) than the needle bearing cage.
If you put the cupped washer on, and then push down on it, there should be no drum contact or binding at all.
Worst case you could always belt sand the splined end of the drum a bit to get clearance you need...always modify the cheapest part LOL. Make sure the drive pin is shortened too, if you go that route.
texican65
ArboristSite Operative
Well...here's the pictures you requested randy. I'm not sure which kind of driveplate I have, so I included a photo of that also. The cage bearing is safe, wasn't crushed. What did get crushed though was the small shaft diameter washer. I had the cupped washer facing in towards the saw, followed by the small shaft sized washer, then the clutch. Hmmmm...
texican65
ArboristSite Operative
Forgot to mention, yes I used a new cage bearing, but it had a plastic cage instead of metal like the old one, hope that's ok. And a new/used clutch...those are the only 2 pieces I didn't re-use.
All looks right to me, I think I can see the crankshaft step correctly sticking out from the inside of your drum sprocket thrust washer in your pic.
I attached a big pic of one of mine, and the step is about 0.025" out farther than the drum thrust washer face.
Lay a straight edge or feeler in there against the drum thrust to check the protrusion if you can't really tell.
Where does it bind, or make contact when you put the cupped washer on & press in?
The cupped washer ID should just fit over the threaded shaft with no play, and then rest against the shaft step. Hope it's not an 056 washer, the hole would be too big.
You've got the flat faced type drive washer, so if the needle bearing falls way too far in, you need the little spacer ring put on.
I attached a big pic of one of mine, and the step is about 0.025" out farther than the drum thrust washer face.
Lay a straight edge or feeler in there against the drum thrust to check the protrusion if you can't really tell.
Where does it bind, or make contact when you put the cupped washer on & press in?
The cupped washer ID should just fit over the threaded shaft with no play, and then rest against the shaft step. Hope it's not an 056 washer, the hole would be too big.
You've got the flat faced type drive washer, so if the needle bearing falls way too far in, you need the little spacer ring put on.
This 041 runs a raised face drive pin washer, plastic caged needle bearing, it eliminated the little spacer.
