Stihl 041, points or electronic

[picklenjim]

Newbe here with a question on timing an 041AV with electronic ignition. I'm going to make a pointer that mounts on the bar mounting studs simular to the one in the attached pic Lakeside53 has back in post 21. My question is, is the point of the pointer exactly on a line running straight through the centers of the 2 bar mounting studs? In other words when I make my mark on the clutch will it be perfectly in line with the 2 bar mounting studs. Thanks !

 

[cajunhillbilly]

First post...Welcome!

I think the answer to your question as understand it is YES. I'm no expert, someone else may help much more. The question and "clutch" alignment is throwing me off. I like the points version on these old saws so I don't have a whole lot of experience with the electronic. You should begin by reading this thread from beginning to end and the search box to the right. It has all the info you need to get it set right. Also, Download the PDF's provided by the members in this thread. I hope you get it running and post often.:msp_smile:

 

[picklenjim]

Hey thanks cajun! What I was saying in reference to the clutch is acording to the instructions on setting the timimg in the zip file page 44 in post 21, with the piston set at 2.5mm btdc and the alighment tool in place you make a mark on the clutch for shooting your timing light at. I don't have that tool so I plan to make my own. So if you could imagine a line running across through the centers of the bar mounting studs all the way to the clutch is that the exact point on the clutch where you would make your timing mark? It appears it would be by looking at the tool but wanted to be sure that the tool pointer is made exactly aligned with this imaginary line running through the bar mount stud centers.The photos aren't looking exactly straight at it so it's hard to tell for sure. If so I should easily be able to make an alignment tool as in the pic.

On another note I don't understand why they even made this necessary with the electronic ignition. Instead of having slots in the ignition plate why wouldn't they have just made holes to where it would be mounted solid in the correct spot and not adjustable? I've worked on many 2 stroke dirt bike and that's the way they are. No need to set timing. I can see needing an adjustable plate to set the timing with a point type ignition but not with the electronic ignition.

 

[old 040]

Hey thanks cajun! What I was saying in reference to the clutch is acording to the instructions on setting the timimg in the zip file page 44 in post 21, with the piston set at 2.5mm btdc and the alighment tool in place you make a mark on the clutch for shooting your timing light at. I don't have that tool so I plan to make my own. So if you could imagine a line running across through the centers of the bar mounting studs all the way to the clutch is that the exact point on the clutch where you would make your timing mark? It appears it would be by looking at the tool but wanted to be sure that the tool pointer is made exactly aligned with this imaginary line running through the bar mount stud centers.The photos aren't looking exactly straight at it so it's hard to tell for sure. If so I should easily be able to make an alignment tool as in the pic.

On another note I don't understand why they even made this necessary with the electronic ignition. Instead of having slots in the ignition plate why wouldn't they have just made holes to where it would be mounted solid in the correct spot and not adjustable? I've worked on many 2 stroke dirt bike and that's the way they are. No need to set timing. I can see needing an adjustable plate to set the timing with a point type ignition but not with the electronic ignition.

so far, every 041 i've worked on have a timing mark on the flywheel and on the crankcase, the fan must be removed to see the mark on the flywheel, i chuck a socket setup in my drill to spin the crank to check the timing

 

[picklenjim]

Here's the section on the Electronic versions.. Sorry about the size but I tried to keep the quality up for decent print. I'll play more with it...

The points version pages will follow...

I was going by the method shown on pages 44 & 45 of the zip file in post 21. That's the ignition I have. I have 2 of these and neither have marks on the case but they do on the flywheel. I don't see any reason why I can't make the mark on the case myself though. I saw in one place where they showed removing the gas tank/flywheel cover with the engine running and shooting the light. I just thought the clutch method looked easier. I like the idea of spinning it with a drill on the bench but the question I have about that is all the instructions say to rev the engine to 6000rpm when checking. With a drill you will be seeing less than 2000. I really don't understand why they say to rev up beings as far as I know there is no type of advancing of the timing going on, unless it's built into the electronic ignition units. I'm sure there's not on the points type though they also say to rev to 6000rpm. I'll probably try the drill method. Thanks.

 

[old 040]

I was going by the method shown on pages 44 & 45 of the zip file in post 21. That's the ignition I have. I have 2 of these and neither have marks on the case but they do on the flywheel. I don't see any reason why I can't make the mark on the case myself though. I saw in one place where they showed removing the gas tank/flywheel cover with the engine running and shooting the light. I just thought the clutch method looked easier. I like the idea of spinning it with a drill on the bench but the question I have about that is all the instructions say to rev the engine to 6000rpm when checking. With a drill you will be seeing less than 2000. I really don't understand why they say to rev up beings as far as I know there is no type of advancing of the timing going on, unless it's built into the electronic ignition units. I'm sure there's not on the points type though they also say to rev to 6000rpm. I'll probably try the drill method. Thanks.

just thought i'd add that once you've got the lines on the flywheel and crankcase lined up, you can mark youre clutch and case on the clutch side, the electronic version may have an advance built in, but i'm not shure, you'll be able to tell when running it and checking on the clutch side, i try to stick with points versions of these saws only to avoid the issues with the elctronic systems

 

[046]

another 041 with no fire ... arrrgghhhh

have not removed flywheel yet... sure hope I find points

 

[picklenjim]

If anyone needs parts for their 041 check out ebay. Just go to ebay and search "stihl 041". About any part you need there.

 

[picklenjim]

another 041 with no fire ... arrrgghhhh

have not removed flywheel yet... sure hope I find points

A problem I seem to see regularly is the kill swith wire. The insulation hardens and then breaks off in large pieces. That would be the first thing to check out. You can cut the plug off the switch end leaving about an inch of wire on the plug and slip heat shrink over the rest of the wire. Then shrink it down and slip another piece about 2 inches long over that. Now twist the wires back together and slip that piece over the twist and to the plug and shrink it down. Another way that works good is to coat it all with liquid electric tape.

 

[oldmanriver]

kill switch wire

A problem I seem to see regularly is the kill swith wire. The insulation hardens and then breaks off in large pieces. That would be the first thing to check out. You can cut the plug off the switch end leaving about an inch of wire on the plug and slip heat shrink over the rest of the wire. Then shrink it down and slip another piece about 2 inches long over that. Now twist the wires back together and slip that piece over the twist and to the plug and shrink it down. Another way that works good is to coat it all with liquid electric tape.

Yep, your right on the kill switch wire. These are old saws and the insulation on most of these is "giving up the ghost". Just had to fix the kill switch wire on one of mine a few days ago. Runs like a scalded a:censored: dog now!!:chainsawguy:

 

[sternman]

041 BOSH Ignition Issue

I have this type of module in my pic, It is a bosh and has a 4 mag flywheel. It is dead and was wondering if there is any way to wire the nova 2 trigger on this? Or do i need to mod it out with points system parts to do that? Any help would be thankful on getting this stator to spark again.

Thanks

View attachment 309558

 

[nmurph]

Rip tt