Stihl 044 early 10mm repair

[mtnfarm]

Early Stihl 044 with 10 mm crank.

Need to replace the crankshaft. I realize the 10mm crank is not available. I see some folks use a 12mm crank and replace the piston to make it work and then reuse the Oem cylinder. Will the 12mm crank fit in the 10mm case?

Also, would anybody have a good 10mm crank on a shelf that they would be willing to part with?

I appreciate the info in advance. Thanks!

 

[pioneerguy600]

The 12 mm crank will not fit a 10 mm case without some clearancing work.

 

[huskihl]

Post an ad in the classifieds here and in the other forum. I’m sure someone has one available at a decent price

 

[pioneerguy600]

Post an ad in the classifieds here and in the other forum. I’m sure someone has one available at a decent price

Every part is available if one wants to work on finding it.

 

[Gord404]

The 12 mm crank will not fit a 10 mm case without some clearancing work.

just interested- what do you have to do exactly to the old cases to fit the 12mm crank?

 

[mtnfarm]

just interested- what do you have to do exactly to the old cases to fit the 12mm crank?

I was wondering the same thing. Following along to see what folks say. I believe it’s sanding some of the cast-iron on the crank and replacing the piston with a 12mm.

 

[pioneerguy600]

just interested- what do you have to do exactly to the old cases to fit the 12mm crank?

There are two different approaches I know of and have done to fit the 12mm crank into the 10 mm case. First one I did I ground out just a bit of the crankcase itself to provide clearance for the crank counterweight, was just a little at the bottom of the case inside where the counterweights rotate. On the second one I did I removed a bit off the counterweights themselves, was an easier procedure. The two saws went back to work around 2010 and still out there mostly used for firewood duty.

 

[jackdaripper]

I would be more inclined to grind a bit of the crank counterweights for fear of the case getting too thin.

 

[pioneerguy600]

I would be more inclined to grind a bit of the crank counterweights for fear of the case getting too thin.

No fears either way, the case surrounding the crank is much thicker than the rest of the crankcase even where the through bolts hold the crankcase halves to together. However it is easier to just relieve the crank counterweights and a slight bit off the bottom of the big end of the connecting rod, bench top belt sander took no time at all to remove just a bit of the weights and a bit off the bulge at the bottom of the con rod. The two I did are subjected to some roughnecks cutting firewood running 25" bars and have no mercy for machinery.

 

[jackdaripper]

No fears either way, the case surrounding the crank is much thicker than the rest of the crankcase even where the through bolts hold the crankcase halves to together. However it is easier to just relieve the crank counterweights and a slight bit off the bottom of the big end of the connecting rod, bench top belt sander took no time at all to remove just a bit of the weights and a bit off the bulge at the bottom of the con rod. The two I did are subjected to some roughnecks cutting firewood running 25" bars and have no mercy for machinery.

That's good to hear.

 

[mtnfarm]

No fears either way, the case surrounding the crank is much thicker than the rest of the crankcase even where the through bolts hold the crankcase halves to together. However it is easier to just relieve the crank counterweights and a slight bit off the bottom of the big end of the connecting rod, bench top belt sander took no time at all to remove just a bit of the weights and a bit off the bulge at the bottom of the con rod. The two I did are subjected to some roughnecks cutting firewood running 25" bars and have no mercy for machinery.

This is very helpful info. I too would be more inclined to trim a little from the crank and leave the case full thickness. Glad to know folks have had long-term success.