Stihl 075 Complete Rebuild and Performance Mods
- Thread starter bulletpruf
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Looks like AS deleted my question, so I'll ask it again. Why'd you use that style of muffler cover? The non-Stihl branded covers and that muffler style were from the same era the long-bodied small screened muffler guards, as shown in this pic from a Stihl ad.
I used that muffler guard because of the different case. A page or two ago, I posted a pic of the additional threaded boss in the case; that's for the updated muffler guard. Figured I might as well use that guard and utilize the additional threaded boss, especially since I had a few spare ones in my parts stash.Looks like AS deleted my question, so I'll ask it again. Why'd you use that style of muffler cover? The non-Stihl branded covers and that muffler style were from the same era the long-bodied small screened muffler guards, as shown in this pic from a Stihl ad.
Just skimmed back over the thread to find the pic of your seal puller in post #31. Elegant in its simplicity! Where might one find such a convenient tool? I can actually see having a couple in order to custom shape the ends for some of the smaller seals.
And for splitting cases where the Husky tool won't work or fit, I would highly recommend the bar stud press/pull attachment method over prying with any type of tool. A simple piece of steel or aluminum stock with a couple of holes drilled in the right places and a cheapie 2 jaw puller will always work in a pinch. If you happen to have a piece of uni-strut laying around, even better. Once the crank is pushed out of the PTO side, simply use a press or other suitable method to push it out of the f/w side.
And for splitting cases where the Husky tool won't work or fit, I would highly recommend the bar stud press/pull attachment method over prying with any type of tool. A simple piece of steel or aluminum stock with a couple of holes drilled in the right places and a cheapie 2 jaw puller will always work in a pinch. If you happen to have a piece of uni-strut laying around, even better. Once the crank is pushed out of the PTO side, simply use a press or other suitable method to push it out of the f/w side.
Poge - it's made by Lisle. It's a bit big for saws (I usually use it on automotive stuff) but it still works fine. I bought it from Amazon. If you're going to use it for other stuff, make sure you order the heavy duty version. I had the normal/light duty one and bent it.
Thank you, sir. I have the small engine version with the interchangeable ends and the adjustable fulcrum. I've not it found to be very useful for anything a screwdriver couldn't pop out anyway. LOL
I like the idea of the rocking motion and have seen guys fashion similar tools from linoleum/vinyl cutting tools. I think such a tool would have made this very stubborn flywheel side seal from a recent 048 rebuild much easier to remove! I swear they used blue Loctite everywhere on those saws.
I like the idea of the rocking motion and have seen guys fashion similar tools from linoleum/vinyl cutting tools. I think such a tool would have made this very stubborn flywheel side seal from a recent 048 rebuild much easier to remove! I swear they used blue Loctite everywhere on those saws.
Your seal puller appears to actually be an OTC and comes with an extra hook/head for 15 bux from Amazon. The way the head attaches also lends itself to custom fashioning smaller hook sizes. Sold.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
Ok maybe it was OTC. It does come with a spare head too.
TimbaBlake
ArboristSite Lurker
I picked up a 075 not to long ago to set up for Milling. I finally got time to tear her down, clean her up, slap some lipstick and put a new dress on her. When I bought her I noticed oiling problems, like, I couldn't tell if the manual was working or not. Well, after cracking it open (where it still is today), lo and behold there's no oil piston...
...
.......
Wut
....
..................oooook.
You wouldn't still happen to have these pieces lying around would you? To the old case, not the new one?
Sent from my S41 using Tapatalk
I still have them, but I have about 6 more of these saws to put together and can't let go of any of my spares just yet. You can usually find these bits on eBay.
The other obvious option is an external oiler setup if the saw is only going to be used for milling. May be easier to find, and with today's ebay prices, may even be cheaper!
send me a picture of IPL with parts your looking for and I will see if I have it
Saw is on eBay. Ends Monday evening.
Thanks
Thanks
vintage saw fan
ArboristSite Lurker
Hello
Brand new to the forum and hoping to get some help. I am restoring a basket case Stihl 075 av electronic and I base the electronic part on an assumption because it has a coil/ignition module part number 2204222022 and no trigger plate or points. Can anyone help me with how this coil/ignition module is wired? It has 2 thin wires on top one of which is going to a circular connector with another wire coming out of that circular connector going to the kill switch. The second wire on top is going nowhere where it goes is my question? Another question is where does the circular connector go that has the wires going to the coil and kill switch? Thank you
Brand new to the forum and hoping to get some help. I am restoring a basket case Stihl 075 av electronic and I base the electronic part on an assumption because it has a coil/ignition module part number 2204222022 and no trigger plate or points. Can anyone help me with how this coil/ignition module is wired? It has 2 thin wires on top one of which is going to a circular connector with another wire coming out of that circular connector going to the kill switch. The second wire on top is going nowhere where it goes is my question? Another question is where does the circular connector go that has the wires going to the coil and kill switch? Thank you
Pictures would help me answer this better, but I'll give it a shot. If the wire with the circular connector is short, it is a ground wire and goes under a screw. If it is long, it is supposed to go to an ignition "donut" looking piece, as pictured below. I've also included a link to a Stihl illustrated parts list below.
http://thebakeliteradio.com/sawspares.com/Stihl%20075%20IPL.pdf
vintage saw fan
ArboristSite Lurker
Pictures would help me answer this better, but I'll give it a shot. If the wire with the circular connector is short, it is a ground wire and goes under a screw. If it is long, it is supposed to go to an ignition "donut" looking piece, as pictured below. I've also included a link to a Stihl illustrated parts list below.
http://thebakeliteradio.com/sawspares.com/Stihl%20075%20IPL.pdf
Attachments
vintage saw fan
ArboristSite Lurker
Thank you for the reply. I’m looking forward to hear this saw run.
Awrighty, now we're getting somewhere! The grey "endless" wire needs a connector spliced on and it goes under the upper right bolt. The "twins" are supposed to go under the flywheel to the donut, and the rest should be pretty self-explanatory.
vintage saw fan
ArboristSite Lurker
Thank you
I was under the impression that this coil/ignition module didn’t utilize the donut trigger device? Do you have any information on this coil/ignition module? Thanks again!
The cast-in p/n on your coil and @bulletpruf are the same, so I'm assuming they both use the donut as well. According to the ipl, you need Trigger unit 1114 400 1000.
