So with me getting a ms461, I usually run an 0.50 bar and chain as that is what is common in my area. Question is should I bump up the gauge with the bigger saw? Majority of wood I cut will be soft wood with a smidgen of hard wood mixed in
Your a bit mistaken, 1/2" pitch chain came on 1960's & older chainsaws. More or less & NLA.
So you're wanting 3/8" (0.375) or 0.404". If very dirty cutting or bar spec'ed so than 0.404" .063" will work fine. You only need 3/8" on ms461 & opens a bunch of bar & chain options.
My larger saws are 0.058" so wrong guy to comment, but. Most opinions will suggest 3/8" .050 up to 28" bar. Then personally preference to go up to 3/8" .063 at/over 28". I know guys running ms500i on 32" 3/8" .050 as no issue.
Simply that 3/8" .050 yields more bar & chain option. Easier to find bargins. Imo.
Edit.. more
Just realize the difference is Drivelinks only. The cutter profile (kerf), rivets, bushing that comprise upper 'chassis' are the same 0.063" vs 0.050"
.. Stihl, Archer, etc will have .063" chassis narrowed to .050 driver plates
... Husqvarna would be .058" chassis narrowed to .050
Others may have better advice. My book .050" gives a bit wider bar rail contact & perhaps longer bar life. But .050 could wear rim sprocket a bit sooner. Unlikely any drivelink difference.
The one common differentiator is bar nose gauge. Many times are all .063" (universal .050, .058, .063). If do alot of boring cuts then possibly merit to go straight .063, true .063 chassis & end to end .063 & nose. Again, matter of what bar & chain Gauge most available to you.
