Stihl 08s problems

[camel2019]

These all say Stihl OEM
https://www.ebay.com/itm/352993603334?hash=item52300eef06:g:yHwAAOSw59heYXy-
https://www.ebay.com/itm/393386251693?hash=item5b97a5d5ad:g:t90AAOSwUP1gwAUH
https://www.ebay.com/itm/275165848336?epid=1101638004&hash=item401129a310:g:xggAAOSwHlViCIaV

I’m not someone who worrys about OEM parts especially on a work saw

 

[KASH]

I have 2 o8s with chain brakes.They are 56cc models I sure wish I could find a later one which is 60 ccs.I like these saws.
Kash

 

[camel2019]

I have 2 o8s with chain brakes.They are 56cc models I sure wish I could find a later one which is 60 ccs.I like these saws.
Kash

I’d just pop a 49mm cylinder and piston on one. Mine has 170 Psi still so won’t see a new cylinder ever hoping it’s not the 44mm cylinder but since it’s the bold logo with the cross cut it probably is Hopefully it will run the 25 inch roller nose I got for it.

 

[KASH]

What is 170 pay? Pull the muffler and stick in a straw and roll the motor up so it marks the straw then measure it.
Does yours have the push button stop or the toggle switch early ones were push button but one of my 08ss is push button but 56ccs.
Kash

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

If you tune it correctly it won’t blow up without a govenor. I have rebuilt a number of old saws with air vane govenors.

Best to disconnect it, tune it, reconnect it, lean the H until it kicks in. Should kick in a couple hundred rpm above where you tuned it. If not, adjust the position of the govenor until it does.

It’s just a safety net.

It depends how much of a purist you want to be with the saw. If so connect it up, if not, disconnect it because sometimes it will cause more problems than it will solve.

 

[camel2019]

What is 170 pay? Pull the muffler and stick in a straw and roll the motor up so it marks the straw then measure it.
Does yours have the push button stop or the toggle switch early ones were push button but one of my 08ss is push button but 56ccs.
Kash

I typed PSI but phone auto corrected it for some reason. Toggle switch for the kill.

 

[camel2019]

If you tune it correctly it won’t blow up without a govenor. I have rebuilt a number of old saws with air vane govenors.

Best to disconnect it, tune it, reconnect it, lean the H until it kicks in. Should kick in a couple hundred rpm above where you tuned it. If not, adjust the position of the govenor until it does.

It’s just a safety net.

It depends how much of a purist you want to be with the saw. If so connect it up, if not, disconnect it because sometimes it will cause more problems than it will solve.

I bought it bc their supposed to be dead nuts reliable I expect the common stuff like carb kits fuel lines ect. This will be used for occasional felling but mostly firewood. I plan on buying extra seals bearings and a cylinder kit or few(have a ts360 so keep them around could be handy) keep this old girl running till the ban the use of 2 stroke equipment and probably long after.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

I bought it bc their supposed to be dead nuts reliable I expect the common stuff like carb kits fuel lines ect. This will be used for occasional felling but mostly firewood. I plan on buying extra seals bearings and a cylinder kit or few(have a ts360 so keep them around could be handy) keep this old girl running till the ban the use of 2 stroke equipment and probably long after.

pressure and vac test it

 

[camel2019]

pressure and vac test it

Don’t have the tools to do that yet

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Don’t have the tools to do that yet

I’d suggest not taking of the job of repairing it. Or take it to someone that can test it.

Unless you are willing to risk throwing money in the bin that could have been put towards the tool. The most important test on a 2 stroke, especially an old one is pressure and vacuum.

You can’t expect to repair equipment without investing in the right tools to do the job.

 

[camel2019]

I’d suggest not taking of the job of repairing it. Or take it to someone that can test it.

Unless you are willing to risk throwing money in the bin that could have been put towards the tool. The most important test on a 2 stroke, especially an old one is pressure and vacuum.

You can’t expect to repair equipment without investing in the right tools to do the job.

It’s my saw not a customers and I generally don’t work on old saws for costumers just yet for this reason. most of the stuff I get in from costumer is poulan or other homeowner stuff that is useally junk before the seals ever go bad. I did work on a pile of ts350’s for one customer and out of the 6 he dropped off one had a bad coil and ended up being used for parts. This saw will run as it did before(like garbage but it did) the carb rebuild and how I checked for seals leaking was tipped it on its side I’ve replaced the intake gasket and the carb spacer gaskets as I had a full gasket kit here.

 

[camel2019]

On things like my pioneer 620’s those will get crank seals,gaskets and rings bc their so old and haven’t been used is such a long time that they will probably be long since dried out. Actually one of the 620’s I put fuel down the carb and it leaks out of the crank seals.for something like the 620’s I don’t mind putting new seals in their about $6 each from just about any auto parts store I have the cross reference written down for the 08s somewhere the main reason I want to buy extras is for down the road I do this for a lot of my equipment have spare cylinders and carb kits for most of my stuff.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Tilting the saw on the side is not a way to test the validity of the seals - it doesn’t show anything other than releasing fuel from the crank case or fuel pooling in the intake manifold. A vacuum test is the correct way, but in a pinch you can try some propellant or propane from a torch sprayed at the seals.

All good, just sharing the correct way to diagnose an issue rather than throw money at it possibly unnecessarily. Either way, good luck with the build.

 

[Chainmale]

If you tune it correctly it won’t blow up without a govenor. I have rebuilt a number of old saws with air vane govenors.

Best to disconnect it, tune it, reconnect it, lean the H until it kicks in. Should kick in a couple hundred rpm above where you tuned it. If not, adjust the position of the govenor until it does.

It’s just a safety net.

It depends how much of a purist you want to be with the saw. If so connect it up, if not, disconnect it because sometimes it will cause more problems than it will solve.

Agree. I feel that some of the older fashioned rev limiters can hinder tuning it right. Being too lean on H screw but not knowing if it's four stroking or not at WOT. My 2100 I'm likely on the rich side out of caution

 

[camel2019]

So I have figured out the issue with it one whoever was in the carb’s before me had the gaskets/diaphragms In there wrong. I’m still having the same issue though fuel is bubbling out from the throttle body I vac tested the carb and it held about 8lbs I am wondering if maybe the seat is not down all the way.

 

[camel2019]

I rebuilt the carb again and it is still doing the same thing could it be the impulse hole or.

 

[Poshlegs]

My original 08s (56 cc, no chain brake) was also smoking and would start when cold, but was impossible to start once warm, it would flood. It was the first saw that I owned and I was determined to fix it and hopefully learn something along the way. I changed the crank seals, new gaskets, rebuilt the carb, new spark plug, new fuel line and breather, pressure tested the carb, tested compression etc (110 PSI). Nothing worked until I fitted a replacement ignition from these guys: https://shop.saegenspezi.de, replacing the coil and points with an electronic ignition. The saw now runs amazingly well, no smoke, easy to start, idles properly and revs. Having fixed my saw I then found this YouTube video which would have been helpful to me.

 

[camel2019]

My original 08s (56 cc, no chain brake) was also smoking and would start when cold, but was impossible to start once warm, it would flood. It was the first saw that I owned and I was determined to fix it and hopefully learn something along the way. I changed the crank seals, new gaskets, rebuilt the carb, new spark plug, new fuel line and breather, pressure tested the carb, tested compression etc (110 PSI). Nothing worked until I fitted a replacement ignition from these guys: https://shop.saegenspezi.de, replacing the coil and points with an electronic ignition. The saw now runs amazingly well, no smoke, easy to start, idles properly and revs. Having fixed my saw I then found this YouTube video which would have been helpful to me.

I don’t have a spark issue I can literally sit there want watch the fuel pour up into the throttle body of the carb. The carb is the issue I think bc I vac tested the tank and the breather works. The bigger issue now is I stripped another starter ring need to order another one.

 

[stihltech]

the STIHL spec for carb testing is 10 psi.

 

[camel2019]

the STIHL spec for carb testing is 10 psi.

Only thing I can do is vac test it and that ain’t doing much. I never had so many problems with a Tillotson HL before useally they go together and they work I might try a HL292 from a ts350.