Stihl 08s Restoration w/ pictures

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

stinkbait

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
May 5, 2008
Messages
2,482
Reaction score
364
Location
Virgilina, VA
This is my Stihl 08s. I started the teardown last night. I have a new recoil housing, and p&c kit. The new p&c are the 49mm version, which is the biggest you can get. I believe that the 49mm bore came on the 08se models. I am going to do a pressure test on the saw before I remove the old cylinder to see if the crank seals are still good. If I can get a whole new gasket set with seals, then I will just replace them anyway. The new recoil is nice, but it doesn't have the old logo on it, but I don't care, it looks good. The new cylinder and piston kit looks great. There is basically no flaws in the casting, not even any seams in the intake and exhaust ports. I have been thinking about porting the cylinder before I put it on the saw because I only gave $50 for the kit, but I haven't decided yet. Once I get the saw torn completely down, all the parts will be blasted, cleaned, and repainted. I also have a picture of my spare 08s for parts. So far I have decided to use the handlebar and oil pump from the spare saw. I have and original bar and new .404 stihl chain and sprocket for the 08s. I will need a new muffler and gasket set as of right now. I will probably find out that I need more as I go along. The saw did run before I started tearing it down though.

DSC02040.jpg

DSC02041.jpg

DSC02042.jpg

DSC02043.jpg

DSC02047.jpg

DSC02048.jpg

DSC02049.jpg

DSC02051.jpg
 
Here are some pictures of the p&c that is on the saw now. I may use this p&c on my parts 08s when I'm done with this build because the parts 08s is locked up.
DSC02064.jpg

DSC02065.jpg
 
Looks like a fun project. If you're going to blast and paint the rest of the saw anyway, I'd rather keep the original recoil housing. You can tap the rivets out from the back side and then tap them back in once painted.
 
Looks like a fun project. If you're going to blast and paint the rest of the saw anyway, I'd rather keep the original recoil housing. You can tap the rivets out from the back side and then tap them back in once painted.

But the old emblem will still be crappy looking. That is the only issue I have with that idea, no offense Brad. I wish that I would have found the old Stihl emblem thread earlier. Then I would have a few new ones.
 
Might as well blast and paint it while you're at it. Then if you ever find a nice emblem, you can swap housings.

Sounds good.

Do you have any opinions on my muffler question, Brad?

I may just choose the muffler that is the cheapest, once found.
 
Your copy is a very old one with the push button kill switch and cast in model name. Only the later ones came with the housing like your new one. 08s where made for years, and what makes yours special is its age.
 
Your copy is a very old one with the push button kill switch and cast in model name. Only the later ones came with the housing like your new one. 08s where made for years, and what makes yours special is its age.

Both of my 08s stihls have the push button style kill switch. The wire is just dangling on both of them though and I can't tell how it was attached to the switch.
 
I am full of questions at this point, so here's another. How much play should be in the crankshaft? What I mean is the movement in and out along the crank's axis. If I need to split the case, can I use the same method as used on other stihls using the bar studs? And how much pressure should I put into the crankcase once I have blocked the exhaust and intake for the pressure test? Do all Stihl dealers carry the Stihl spray paint?

Well there is a few. I'm sure that there will be more later.
 
The crank in the top handled S10 I just got will move side to side quite a bit. No radial play though. It runs fine.

Do not use the Stihl Orange paint. It's almost completely transparent and is totally the wrong color. The orange on that old 08S is nearly red. Also, the grey on your saw is way darker than the Stihl spray. You might find some implement paint at TSC to match the red. I'd recommend going to Ace Hardware and having them scan your saw and mix the paint to match. It's machine enamel and they sell a hardner/activator for it too. You would have to use a spray gun though.
 
Last edited:
The crank in the top handled S10 I just got will move side to side quite a bit. No radial play though. It runs fine.

Do not use the Stihl Orange paint. It's almost completely transparent and is totally the wrong color. The orange on that old 08S is nearly red. Also, the grey on your saw is way darker than the Stihl spray. You might find some implement paint at TSC to match the red. I'd recommend going to Ace Hardware and having them scan your saw and mix the paint to match. It's machine enamel and they sell a hardner/activator for it too. You would have to use a spray gun though.

That's good to hear. I took a look at the TSC implement paint and couldn't find anything to match the tan color. The only tan I could find was cub cadet, and that was way off. I didn't think to search for the red while I was there. I may just have to go to our local Ace and ask about there paint. The spray gun thing isn't really an issue for me.
 
I tore into the saw a little more last night, removing the sprocket and clutch. When I went to remove the flywheel I noticed something wasn't right. I think that I have a bent crankshaft. I can rotate the crank and both ends seem to have some wobble when rotated, and the flywheel seems to contact the saw in one place. So I guess I'm going to have to tear down my parts saw and see if that crank is any good.
 
Back
Top