Stihl 170 oiler

[sonny580]

Noticed the 170 oil flow to the chain slowed way down. Is there a setting on them? In a hurry out in the boonies and didnt want to tear into it out there. I love the saw for knocking off smaller limbs and been using the hell out of it for that.
Bought it on auction and know nothing about it other than it started/ran/cut so I started using it. Was the oil flow the reason it was at the auction??? Anyway I want to fix it so I can use it again. The 250's are not as good for limbs as the 170! lol!

 

[SteveSr]

Noticed the 170 oil flow to the chain slowed way down. Is there a setting on them? In a hurry out in the boonies and didnt want to tear into it out there. I love the saw for knocking off smaller limbs and been using the hell out of it for that.
Bought it on auction and know nothing about it other than it started/ran/cut so I started using it. Was the oil flow the reason it was at the auction??? Anyway I want to fix it so I can use it again. The 250's are not as good for limbs as the 170! lol!

Oil pump has no adjustment. Check the worm gear and for crud in the tank. This is assuming that the bar and barplate are clean and tight.

 

[HarleyT]

I always try doing a cleanse.

Dump out the oil, and fill partway back with fuel mix, shake, dump, then repeat.
With the bar/chain off, and the tank still has the gas mix inside, start the saw and run it a little, and watch the output of the oil pump.

Many times that breaks up any clogs.

 

[stihltech]

A couple things to look for beyond the tank cleaning and worm.
You need to pull the oil tank, supply hose and oil pump. The debris in the tank plugs up the feed slot in the oil pump. Only cure is to remove the pump and clean it and all passages.
The fit of the supply hose to the oil pump entrance is another place. It will suck air and not pull oil to the pump. The correct repair is to replace the hose. I smear os sealer on the OUTSIDE of the hose is not a bad idea.
Check the passage behind the muffler for a plug present. You will know by all the oil coming from under the muffler.
And occasionally the pump is worn. I dare say I have replaced no more than 10 in all the time they have been out.
Hope this helps.

 

[buzz sawyer]

Before you get too deep into it, how are you gauging the oil usage? Have you run it with the bar removed to see oil flow? Does it sling oil off the bar nose when you rev it up? Is the oil passage in the bar clogged?

 

[sonny580]

It does NOT sling oil,-- thats one of the things I first noticed. Next was after 3 tanks of gas, the oil was only down half way, so I quit using it til I can fix the problem. Nice startin/runnin/cutting little guy. I also noticed it has a very narrow chain/bar on it. Light as a feather and kinda spoiled me! LOL!
I will start with emptying the tank and go from there.
I never had the bar off,---gotta dig into it and see . Kinda wondered about the pump and drive, also the plugged passages. Saw dont look used much at all, thats why I bought it, gave $30. for it.
Thanks all for the ideas. Will let you know what I find! Might be a few days before I can get to it,----loggin at sis's right now before weather turns to crap again!

 

[HarleyT]

Yeah, the pump is tiny. Take off the bar and chain and start it, you should see a line of oil flowing out the outlet as you gently rev the saw.

 

[JohnnyBlade]

I just delt with this on a buddy's ms180. Same exact symptoms. The design for the oil hose needs to be revamped. As the line enters the tank it has to make pretty much a hard 90 to face forward to the front of the tank. What happens with the segmented OEM hose is it pinches or collapses the hard bend. I could get it to pump mix but not oil. Found a AM line that starts with a 1/4" of soild line before the segmenting starts and it took care of the pinching problem. The saw shoots oil all over the place now. Ull need to fish a piece of fishing string through the tank to change the line. Put the new line and filter together and pull it through as one piece. Wish I took pics to explain better but if you have seen the oil tank and (str8 hose) out of those saws you'll get the picture. An oil line that has a 45 or 90 molded in to it from the factory would alleviate these problems Stihl.....PM me for my royalties payment

 

[SteveSr]

It does NOT sling oil,-- thats one of the things I first noticed.

These newer saws don't sling oil like the older ones. Correct oil consumption is about 1/2 tank of oil for every tank of gas.

Next was after 3 tanks of gas, the oil was only down half way, so I quit using it til I can fix the problem.

This would tend to indicate a clog or the pump is sucking air. If it is sucking air you will see bubbles in the output flow.

The OEM hose does have a 90 degree bend in it. It is important to make sure that the oil pickup goes all the way to the front of the tank and doesn't get folded up in the back of the tank.

 

[JohnnyBlade]

These newer saws don't sling oil like the older ones. Correct oil consumption is about 1/2 tank of oil for every tank of gas.


This would tend to indicate a clog or the pump is sucking air. If it is sucking air you will see bubbles in the output flow.

The OEM hose does have a 90 degree bend in it. It is important to make sure that the oil pickup goes all the way to the front of the tank and doesn't get folded up in the back of the tank.

Not looking to argue, just stating the obvious. These R NOT MY PICS! JUST FOR REFERENCE! above shows how narrow the tank is and the aggressive angle in a short span for a str8 hose.above shows the pinch point.Above shows the lines used, no 90...above shows my pic. If the hose ain't pinched they sling oil like an old 2 series husky.

 

[JohnnyBlade]

Here's the saw still waiting to be picked up. He just uses it for yard clean up. Already gone through 2 bars from no oil and this is the 3rd. Now he should be good for years to come.

 

[SteveSr]

I have fixed several with genuine OEM Stihl oil line and they don't pinch. AM on the other hand probably would pinch.

 

[JohnnyBlade]

To the OP, use my info however you see fit. I'm not advocating using AM parts, just a part that i found that was better designed for the application at hand. The AM oil line I used had to be motosealed into the tank as I didn't like the fitment without sealer. I also motosealed the line where it goes into the Oiler housing just for insurance. That fit just fine. Once you get the oil tank out and pull the oil line mock it up on top of the tank as if it wer in the tank. Ull see what I'm talking about the pinch point. I think I showed enough proof above to add my point to your trouble shooting list. Good luck, keep us posted.

 

[SteveSr]

To the OP, use my info however you see fit. I'm not advocating using AM parts, just a part that i found that was better designed for the application at hand. The AM oil line I used had to be motosealed into the tank as I didn't like the fitment without sealer. I also motosealed the line where it goes into the Oiler housing just for insurance. That fit just fine. Once you get the oil tank out and pull the oil line mock it up on top of the tank as if it wer in the tank. Ull see what I'm talking about the pinch point. I think I showed enough proof above to add my point to your trouble shooting list. Good luck, keep us posted.

Yes, it is a good idea to seal these in the tank and in the pump to prevent leaks and sucking air. I used oil resistant RTV like you use on valve covers.

If you do have to pull the pump it must be replaced in the same orientation and depth for it to line up the oil passages and the worm gear.

 

[stihltech]

I find it odd that I have not had an oil line pinch off if installed correctly. Follow the instructions I ( and others) have posted. It will oil correctly.