Stihl 200T- OEM or aftermarket crank seals and bearings

[capejwc]

Rebuilding a Stihl 200T a neighbor gave to me for repairing his saws. The cylinder and piston were toast, so splurged and got an OEM cylinder and piston. Waiting on a pressure tester to check crankcase pressure before I do the rebuild, but think this saw needs crank seals at least. Checked the vacuum and it does not hold on my Mityvac (My Mityvac only does vacuum, so waiting on the pressure tester). I have heard many good things about aftermarket parts, but would appreciate advice on whether I should use OEM oil seals and crank bearings. I did buy an oil seal installation tool since I heard the seals can be tricky to install. Adding some other new parts, so want to end up with a pretty good saw.

Also would like to find a source for some reflector foil- part number 1129 351 3000. The foil in the saw is pretty beat up and might as well replace it.

 

[Wood Doctor]

I hate to tell you this, but you could be paying more for all of these OEM parts needed to restore this saw than what you could have paid to buy a used running 200T. I recently paid $350 for parts needed to retore a 201T that the owner said he paid $1.000 to buy new. After a lot of work, I got it running once again, but I have to wonder if he could have simply bought a new saw, perhaps one that worked just as well as the one I restored for him with OEM parts. Just MHO.

 

[capejwc]

You are correct that you can put a lot of money in these saws and end up spending too much. Brand new, they are going for a lot more than $900. The saw was given to me for doing repairs on a neighbors saws, so no initial investment other than my 'retired' time. By the time I am done, I will have a $900+ saw that I know is done right and for a lot less than buying outright.

I just did a vacuum test and found that I did not have the muffler port blocked well. Leaks down slowly from 12 to 5 lbs and then stays pretty steady. I think that my intake port seal may be leaking a little too. Will experiment with a better plug and see how the vacuum holds then. I also will probably wait a few days for a pressure tester to arrive and then pressure test before installing the new cylinder and piston. At this point, I am pretty sure my crank oil seals are good.

Still looking for the reflector foil supplier.

 

[hotshot]

That tape is 3” wide Nashua #324A foil tape used in the HVAC industry on ducts, 0.008” thick with the backer still on. 3M makes it too, #425.

 

[capejwc]

That tape is 3” wide Nashua #324A foil tape used in the HVAC industry on ducts, 0.008” thick with the backer still on. 3M makes it too, #425.

That helps a bunch!! Thanks!!!!!

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Rebuilding a Stihl 200T a neighbor gave to me for repairing his saws. The cylinder and piston were toast, so splurged and got an OEM cylinder and piston. Waiting on a pressure tester to check crankcase pressure before I do the rebuild, but think this saw needs crank seals at least. Checked the vacuum and it does not hold on my Mityvac (My Mityvac only does vacuum, so waiting on the pressure tester). I have heard many good things about aftermarket parts, but would appreciate advice on whether I should use OEM oil seals and crank bearings. I did buy an oil seal installation tool since I heard the seals can be tricky to install. Adding some other new parts, so want to end up with a pretty good saw.

Also would like to find a source for some reflector foil- part number 1129 351 3000. The foil in the saw is pretty beat up and might as well replace it.

Frankly, I hate the oe seals for the 200. They are a hard, brittle plastic that leave no room for error. If you decide to go with them, get 2 sets.
The Proline on eBay are better, imo. Lone wolf will disagree
And, get a seal install sleeve…Farmertec has them cheap.

Also, the saw won’t be worth $900 from a no-name builder…no offense intended. $650 is about the selling rate for us no-names.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

@lone wolf is the man to speak to re 200’s. Drop him a pm, he’s a good bloke.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

I use this foil heater tape. Bought a whole roll many many years ago.

I put it on this NOS cover so it wont melt like the old cover did. Then put some on old cover too.

 

[lone wolf]

Rebuilding a Stihl 200T a neighbor gave to me for repairing his saws. The cylinder and piston were toast, so splurged and got an OEM cylinder and piston. Waiting on a pressure tester to check crankcase pressure before I do the rebuild, but think this saw needs crank seals at least. Checked the vacuum and it does not hold on my Mityvac (My Mityvac only does vacuum, so waiting on the pressure tester). I have heard many good things about aftermarket parts, but would appreciate advice on whether I should use OEM oil seals and crank bearings. I did buy an oil seal installation tool since I heard the seals can be tricky to install. Adding some other new parts, so want to end up with a pretty good saw.

Also would like to find a source for some reflector foil- part number 1129 351 3000. The foil in the saw is pretty beat up and might as well replace it.

Pics? The STIHL OEM gasket and seal set comes with the heat reflector tape. So what else do you want?

 

[capejwc]

Frankly, I hate the oe seals for the 200. They are a hard, brittle plastic that leave no room for error. If you decide to go with them, get 2 sets.
The Proline on eBay are better, imo. Lone wolf will disagree
And, get a seal install sleeve…Farmertec has them cheap.

Also, the saw won’t be worth $900 from a no-name builder…no offense intended. $650 is about the selling rate for us no-names.

No offense taken and you are probably correct about the value. Even at $650, I would come out very well if I decide to sell at some point. It is looking like my oil seals are good at this point, so not going to replace unless a pressure test shows something different. I did get a seal installation tool, but was not looking forward to that job for sure.

 

[capejwc]

Frankly, I hate the oe seals for the 200. They are a hard, brittle plastic that leave no room for error. If you decide to go with them, get 2 sets.
The Proline on eBay are better, imo. Lone wolf will disagree
And, get a seal install sleeve…Farmertec has them cheap.

Also, the saw won’t be worth $900 from a no-name builder…no offense intended. $650 is about the selling rate for us no-names.

No offense taken. Would come out well ahead if I sold for $650 even with an OEM cylinder and piston, but I plan to keep this saw at least for a while.

 

[lone wolf]

No offense taken. Would come out well ahead if I sold for $650 even with an OEM cylinder and piston, but I plan to keep this saw at least for a while.

Pics of the saw?

 

[singinwoodwackr]

No offense taken. Would come out well ahead if I sold for $650 even with an OEM cylinder and piston, but I plan to keep this saw at least for a while.

That's what I thought for the last 3 I rebuilt...was gonna keep it...had climbers begging me to sell

Have another in a box now...might keep it

 

[lone wolf]

Frankly, I hate the oe seals for the 200. They are a hard, brittle plastic that leave no room for error. If you decide to go with them, get 2 sets.
The Proline on eBay are better, imo. Lone wolf will disagree
And, get a seal install sleeve…Farmertec has them cheap.

Also, the saw won’t be worth $900 from a no-name builder…no offense intended. $650 is about the selling rate for us no-names.

Those OEM seals are not a problem, it's the people whacking them in with a hammer crooked! I have done literally hundreds of them and maybe break one out of 30 or 40. Don't use a big hammer and start them nice and straight, adjust as you go if needed, minor corrections !

 

[capejwc]

Those OEM seals are not a problem, it's the people whacking them in with a hammer crooked! I have done literally hundreds of them and maybe break one out of 30 or 40. Don't use a big hammer and start them nice and straight, adjust as you go if needed, minor corrections !

Too big of a hammer has caused problems for me before!! Waiting on a pressure tester, but so far, I think the seals are still ok. Will see in a few days when the pressure tester arrives. My Mityvac only does vacuum, but was what I needed when I bought it. Thanks for the advice and I will keep you posted.

 

[capejwc]

Those OEM seals are not a problem, it's the people whacking them in with a hammer crooked! I have done literally hundreds of them and maybe break one out of 30 or 40. Don't use a big hammer and start them nice and straight, adjust as you go if needed, minor corrections !

Saw a video where a guy was heating the case before installing the crank bearing(kept in a freezer) and the oil seals. What is your procedure? I did buy an oil seal installation tool just in case. Also have been picking up some extra supplies since my neighbor has about a dozen of these 200T saws. Worked on handles, carbs and annular buffers so far mostly, but have a couple in my shop that have pretty low compression. Haven't checked any further on them yet, but at minimum, they need rings.

 

[lone wolf]

Saw a video where a guy was heating the case before installing the crank bearing(kept in a freezer) and the oil seals. What is your procedure? I did buy an oil seal installation tool just in case. Also have been picking up some extra supplies since my neighbor has about a dozen of these 200T saws. Worked on handles, carbs and annular buffers so far mostly, but have a couple in my shop that have pretty low compression. Haven't checked any further on them yet, but at minimum, they need rings.

You don't need to heat or freeze, just line everything up perfect and drive them squarely and carefully in. The seal tool is a good tool, use it, does it have the bullet shaped piece that goes over the end to keep the seals from tearing on the flywheel key? Are you sure it needs bearings, is there up and downplay on the crank ends or just side to side play? And I hope you didn't buy China knock off bearings ! Used OEM are better than China crap.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Those OEM seals are not a problem, it's the people whacking them in with a hammer crooked! I have done literally hundreds of them and maybe break one out of 30 or 40. Don't use a big hammer and start them nice and straight, adjust as you go if needed, minor corrections !

Did all that, still screwed it up. Couldn't get it out with the seal puller...had to disassemble the case...again...

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Saw a video where a guy was heating the case before installing the crank bearing(kept in a freezer) and the oil seals. What is your procedure? I did buy an oil seal installation tool just in case. Also have been picking up some extra supplies since my neighbor has about a dozen of these 200T saws. Worked on handles, carbs and annular buffers so far mostly, but have a couple in my shop that have pretty low compression. Haven't checked any further on them yet, but at minimum, they need rings.

AM bearings, all of them, have 3x the play as oe...not worth it. Oe only on 200t bearings
I think I posted video way back...

 

[capejwc]

You don't need to heat or freeze, just line everything up perfect and drive them squarely and carefully in. The seal tool is a good tool, use it, does it have the bullet shaped piece that goes over the end to keep the seals from tearing on the flywheel key? Are you sure it needs bearings, is there up and downplay on the crank ends or just side to side play? And I hope you didn't buy China knock off bearings ! Used OEM are better than China crap.

No up and down play, so don't think it needs bearings. I haven't bought crank bearings or seals yet since I may not need them. Taking my time with this build. I did buy the tool for seal installation just in case. One side of that tool fits the clutch side and the other side fits the flywheel side and looks like it has good surface contact for the whole face of the seal. Sound like you recommend the OEM seals over aftermarket. I was just going to leave the woodruff key out until I put the flywheel back on. Lots of opinions on aftermarket seals, but going OEM on any bearings and seals, but did replace the fuel tank with an aftermarket one. Appreciate the advice!! Thanks