Piston and cylinder look nasty. I've never seen one that bad. Good luck and enjoy the rebuild.
Stihl 200T problems.
- Thread starter joejoesaw
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
JeffGu
Antagonist/Heckler
Sure looks like somebody put straight gas in it, doesn't it?
Old Ethanol gas tends to draw water and separate in the fuel and cause seizures too. Could be either one take a look at the pics in my next post.
Here is a pic of a piston from straight gas.http://www.madsens1.com/saw_piston_fail.htm
Heat seizure is similar. OP do you have any gas in the tank left to look at in a glass jar? if not look for any traces of oil in the lower rod bearing if no oil straight gas could be the reason, if oil residue then it was heat seized.
Heat seizure is similar. OP do you have any gas in the tank left to look at in a glass jar? if not look for any traces of oil in the lower rod bearing if no oil straight gas could be the reason, if oil residue then it was heat seized.
I saw the pictures and heat seizure looks a lot like it. My plan is to run the engine a little rich than what is recommended. I read an article a couple of days back, I can't find it again or else I would put a link to it on here. But on the article the author mentions how the recommended mixture for his saws is 50:1 and for older saws you might want to run somewhere in-between 40:1 and 30:1. He also mentions that he prefers to run his saws richer just to have that extra lubrication in there. So I was thinking of doing that once I get this saw back up and running. Maybe run a mixture of 40:1 or 45:1, what do you guys think? Most of the parts have arrived. All I am waiting for is the cylinder and piston. I am hoping to receive all the parts by this weekend so that I can have the saw running by Sunday.
Here is todays repair from an ms 260 this looks like straight gas.
So I haven't received the piston and cylinder for my 200T, I might not get it until middle of the next week. But rebuilding this 200T, something that I originally did not had planned when I got the saw, made me go and dig out an old 334T husqvarna top handle saw that I had bury in my garage since probably 2008. I got drag in into the arborist work back in 2006, so I am a decent tree trimmer and feller but no experience at rebuilding or fixing saws so I am really grateful for all the help y'all have given me. I am glad I am decided to fix this 2o0T it certainly has help me out a lot. But anyways back to the 334T. There were a lot of pieces missing out this husq, more importantly the pulley cover along with all the pulley components and also the brake cover. So I bought a used pulley cover on ebay and surprisingly I got it within two days. I replaced the spark plug on it put the pulley cover on and decided to put first check the compression before I even started it. It reads 120 psi with the muffle off, since I took it off to check the piston out but did not saw any damage. I do not know if the muffle been off affected the compression test. So anyways, I decided to put the muffle on and try to turn the saw on. It turn on after a few attempts, but the saw only stays on with full choke on. As soon as I take the choke off the saw turns off. So I figured maybe there is an air leak and there is too much air going into the engine or maybe my fuel line is block and not enough gas is getting to the engine. So I completely dismantle the saw to take a better look. I am replacing the prime bulb since it looks in pretty bad shape and maybe some air is leaking in through there. I took everything apart and the gas line looks clean, I haven't taken the gas filter out so I do not know the condition of it. But I decided to just take off the cylinder to check out the piston and the condition of it. I have included some pictures of it. I looked through the pictures of different types of damages on pistons that you included lone wolf but none seem like it could be the case. Well the Over-Speeding the Engine looks some what like it but I am not sure. Is the piston damage or do you guys think it still has life left on it? 
Well based on the 120 lbs of compression the piston is damaged and the Cyl might be also.
airframefixer
ArboristSite Operative
I've rebuilt 4 200T's in the last year. All of them needed PTO bearings and seals. I made a tool to draw in the seals without damaging them. Just a bolt, sleeve, nut and washers. If you try to press or tap them in, they'll Crack If not perfectly aligned.
I'm working on a 200t video series...the teardown vids are on my youtube page. As soon as I get the right parts in I'll finish up the build.
Airframe? You put the seals in before the crank / case halves?
Airframe? You put the seals in before the crank / case halves?
airframefixer
ArboristSite Operative
Hello.
I find it best to build up the crank havles first then put the crank in. My procedure is to put the bearings in a ziploc and put them in the freezer for a few hours. Heat up the halves, and press the bearings in. Once things cool off. Assemble my seal drawing tool, and draw them in. Once there in, wipe the back sides off the seal with oil, put the gasket in and put the crank in. It is wise to remove the flywheel key prior to passing it through the seal. You need to trim the crankcase gasket with a razor blade to get it flush with the cylinder mount surface.. I have some pics I took I did of a 200T that uses an 020T cylinder. I will be selling this saw in the post shortly. I'll dig them up and post.
I find it best to build up the crank havles first then put the crank in. My procedure is to put the bearings in a ziploc and put them in the freezer for a few hours. Heat up the halves, and press the bearings in. Once things cool off. Assemble my seal drawing tool, and draw them in. Once there in, wipe the back sides off the seal with oil, put the gasket in and put the crank in. It is wise to remove the flywheel key prior to passing it through the seal. You need to trim the crankcase gasket with a razor blade to get it flush with the cylinder mount surface.. I have some pics I took I did of a 200T that uses an 020T cylinder. I will be selling this saw in the post shortly. I'll dig them up and post.
backhoelover
Free service manuals and service tool info
dave ebay is down to the 25 i think will have to check his ebay store
What about an 020T engine with a MS200T cyl?
airframefixer
ArboristSite Operative
You would need to grind the case to get the transfers to match. I don't ever recall seeing a listed power difference in NA 020t vs 200t saws for what it's worth. Euro saws had a different muffler so it may be the case there.
Can you do this? I have a bunch of 020T engines.
Thanks I put the bearings in the freezer as well so we have the same procedure thank you for the heads up on the seals
airframefixer
ArboristSite Operative
If you have complete 020T bottom ends, I'd just rebuild them and make mate the balance of 200t parts. Look through the tree stuff website site. Looks like they sell aftermarket 200T tanks and handles.
Here's one of the 020T/200T hybrids I'd did.
To the OP. You may want to look into accelerator pump mods aswell. The accell pump is trigger actuated and will wear it's carb bore out after so many cycles.
airframefixer
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks....I'll take some of these ideas for my vids if you don't mind
airframefixer
ArboristSite Operative
Please do. If I had another that needed rebuild, I'd do the same. The accelerator pump mod would derserve a video
