Stihl 660 smooth spikes?

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firebrick43

Life is all about big saws
Joined
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When milling do you guys just drop the spike on the crankcase side or is there a smooth guard to go in its place to protect the vibe and space out for the chain catcher.
 
The only saw they're removed from is the 088 and it didn't come with them. I I need more length I just get a bigger bar.
 
The only saw they're removed from is the 088 and it didn't come with them. I I need more length I just get a bigger bar.

You get a chance to run that 48" bar?
 
You get a chance to run that 48" bar?

I noodled some stuff with it. Slow going on the 84. I hadn't run it on the 88 yet. Maybe in a week or so here I'll get to mill something with it. Not sure how big the log is for sure. I've got to order the big mill this week.
 
On my big mills the mill is bolted to the saws bar bolts (not the bar) so I have to remove the dogs otherwise they will hang up on the log.
Bear in mind the closer the saw is to the log the more exhaust will bounce off the log and up towards the operator.
This is another reason why I have a muffed mod on the 880, it doesn't matter with the 760 as the muffler is well out of the way on that CS.
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One reason why I don't take mine off is because the dawgs hold the chain roller catcher. If I throw a chain I like it to be there,
 
One reason why I don't take mine off is because the dawgs hold the chain roller catcher. If I throw a chain I like it to be there,

That's a good point. The woodlandpro/carlton ripping chain stretches and stretches. Seems like I have to adjust it for the first 4-5 cuts or risk the chain coming off. A home made chain catcher could be added to most chainsaw mills without taking up as much room as a felling spike.. Or, buy a cheap used spike with a chain catcher and grind the spikes off.
 
The 088 has a dual pipe outlet that faces straight out the side. It won't work with the chain brake handle so it's gone also.
 
One reason why I don't take mine off is because the dawgs hold the chain roller catcher. If I throw a chain I like it to be there,
You don't need a chain catcher on a mill. I've broken a number of chains on the mills and since the mill is lay on its side and inboard part of the bar is fully buried they don't come flinging off like they do when the bar is par-buried in the bucking position , the chain just falls of the bar and falls down in the cut. BTW if you mill has an inboard clamp it will acts as a chain catcher.
 
Thank you gentlemen for the advise. They do sell an aluminum chain catcher for use without the roller on the spikes that mounts to the bottom inboard spike bolt hole but it needs a spacer/washer if used without spikes. But as Bob stated probably don't need a chain catcher.

One more question. Does any one modify the sprocket cover for chip evacuation?? The one that came with my saw was beat up and has a small crack in a non structural flat so I bought a new one to mount spikes on to buck and was thinks of sawing some off the old one to mill.
 
You don't need a chain catcher on a mill. I've broken a number of chains on the mills and since the mill is lay on its side and inboard part of the bar is fully buried they don't come flinging off like they do when the bar is par-buried in the bucking position , the chain just falls of the bar and falls down in the cut. BTW if you mill has an inboard clamp it will acts as a chain catcher.

Yeah totally right. I was just milling some white oak today and realized the bolts that clamp the mill to the bar would serve as a catcher anyway.
 
One more question. Does any one modify the sprocket cover for chip evacuation?? The one that came with my saw was beat up and has a small crack in a non structural flat so I bought a new one to mount spikes on to buck and was thinks of sawing some off the old one to mill.
It was not deliberately designed that way but the sawdust also falls into the exhaust stream and is blown away so that the operator does not need to walk on an every increasing pile of sawdust next to the log.
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