Stihl choke lever

[Butch(OH)]

I have never been much of a fan of the single lever control on Sthil saws, full choke or nutten. I can play a bit with the 036 carb so that when it is real cold out I can keep the saw running with the choke off and cold engine by blipping(is that a word?) the throttle. The EPA carb equipped MS210 is another story. The starting proceedure is the same as the 036, choke on, pull till it pops, choke off, 2-3 pulls and its off and running. With the EPA carb on the 210 I cant set the mix rich enough to keep it running cold like I can with the 036. After 3 or more choke, choke off and die go arounds it will get enough heat to keep running. A seperate choke would be nice. Being as I could find no archived threads on this subject I take it that I have an isolated complaint here? Any suggestions? thanks.

 

[Lawn Masters]

What is an EPA carb? the one with those annoying limiter caps on the adjustment screws? or is it the one with the fixed H jet? either way, I dont completely understand the whole question.
I just dislike the fact that my knee hits the master control lever on my 038 while I'm moving from one log to the next and shuts it down.

 

[Butch(OH)]

OK, I read my post and it does read bad, sorry. Try this. My Stihl saws both start the same way. Put the control on choke, pull until the motor pops once, then unchoke and 2-3 pulls they start. This works great in warm weather but in cold weather full choke is too much and with no choke they wont stay running. I get by this with the 036 by adjusting the carb slightly rich and I can keep it running by playing with the throttle for 5-10 seconds. The 210 is a late model saw and has very limited adjustment because of stops in the carb, it runs well when warm but when starting cold I have to go through the full choke and pull til it pops, then no choke and pull til it starts deal 3-4 times before it will stay running. No choke is not enough and full choke is too much. Dealer says its the nature of the things with the carbs they now use. It would be nice to have a seperate choke so I can half choke for a few seconds or a carb that works like the old 036. I guess my question is how is the best way to fix the 210 so I dont have to start it half a dozen times when it is cold out. A way to half choke the motor would easily fix it, has this been done?

 

[stihltech]

lean

A couple of things to check. Sure adjust the carb, but don't forget to check the inlet lever height. You can make them work better than this.

 

[WRW]

OK, I read my post and it does read bad, sorry. Try this. My Stihl saws both start the same way. Put the control on choke, pull until the motor pops once, then unchoke and 2-3 pulls they start. This works great in warm weather but in cold weather full choke is too much and with no choke they wont stay running. I get by this with the 036 by adjusting the carb slightly rich and I can keep it running by playing with the throttle for 5-10 seconds. The 210 is a late model saw and has very limited adjustment because of stops in the carb, it runs well when warm but when starting cold I have to go through the full choke and pull til it pops, then no choke and pull til it starts deal 3-4 times before it will stay running. No choke is not enough and full choke is too much. Dealer says its the nature of the things with the carbs they now use. It would be nice to have a seperate choke so I can half choke for a few seconds or a carb that works like the old 036. I guess my question is how is the best way to fix the 210 so I dont have to start it half a dozen times when it is cold out. A way to half choke the motor would easily fix it, has this been done?

Are you leaving it on the high idle after it starts?

 

[tree monkey]

remove the limiter caps.

 

[Timothy]

you can remove the limiter thing by pulling it off the screw with pliers, if it's the same as an ms250

 

[Lakeside53]

remove the limiter caps.

I assume by EPA carbs you have the ZAMA C1Q-75 / 76 /77? The walbro carbs for this model don't have the limiter caps.

You shouldn't remove (and throw away) the limiter caps. The EPA carbs use these caps to hold the adjustment screw in place. The earlier carbs had coiled spring under the screw to hold the position.

By all means take OFF the caps to adjust the carb, but you need to replace them after wards.

You carb should start and run just fine if it's working correctly, and adjusted. You shouldn't need to "blip" it.

I addition to the usual things to check in the carb, pay particular attention to the main jet - it has a tiny disk in it (check valve) to stop gas from getting into the venturi when there is no vacuum. I see many of these that don't seal correctly leading to an over rich condition at idle. Don't blast compressed air though it as you will ruin the seal. They cost about $2.75 from any Stihl dealer and punch out easily.

 

[rahtreelimbs]

Some of the newer saw carbs have the mixture screws set in what appears to be nylon. They seem to hold the screws better than the spring setup. Just some food for thought. If that is the case the limiter caps can be removed without a problem. I have done this and they do hold!

 

[Pacific]

I have never had any problems with the choke levers on Stihls the Huskys on the other hand can be a pain in the. With my 46 and 260 I full choke it until it fires and dies. Pull the lever up to the second notch usually they fire up and I don't touch the throttle. The only saw I had problems with is the 051 with its finger smashing pull cord

When the weather gets colder than 0 celcius sorry don't know what that is in farenheit but anyhow I don't cut wood too darn cold

I had a 525 Jonsered with a pull choke lever I found it to be a nuisance because it would get hooked on a branch and flood the saw the saw

I can see the saw run poorly in cold weather if you are one of those old farts that figure the oil still has to be mixed 32:1 because that mix ratio is ingrained in your head

 

[rahtreelimbs]

I can see the saw run poorly in cold weather if you are one of those old farts that figure the oil still has to be mixed 32:1 because that mix ratio is ingrained in your head

How do you figure that 32/1 will run poorly as compared to 50/1?

 

[Pacific]

The richer the oil mixture harder it is to ignite its like trying to light diesel fuel with a match. If the saw requires 50:1 run it close to 50:1 I mix my fuel at 47:1 its slightly oil rich. I have gotten a few lectures and shown what too rich of fuel does to newer Stihls and Huskys that require 50:1 mix.

 

[woodshop]

Pacific... and all the rest of the 50:1 only folks, not trying to pick a fight or argue... I just want the facts like all of us... BUT, as I stated in another post about mix ratios, if running more oil than the 50:1 ratio for modern saws has so many nasty things wrong with it, why does Husqvarna in their manual tell us to us 33:1 for thier big (over 80cc) saws? Attached is page 26 of my Husky 395XP manual, dated April 19, 2004. I doubt they changed the carburation and design of the 395XP recently to allow for 33:1.

Dave

 

[spacemule]

Pacific... and all the rest of the 50:1 only folks, not trying to pick a fight or argue... I just want the facts like all of us... BUT, as I stated in another post about mix ratios, if running more oil than the 50:1 ratio for modern saws has so many nasty things wrong with it, why does Husqvarna in their manual tell us to us 33:1 for thier big (over 80cc) saws? Attached is page 26 of my Husky 395XP manual, dated April 19, 2004. I doubt they changed the carburation and design of the 395XP recently to allow for 33:1.

Dave

Politics, religion, and fuel mix shouldn't be discussed.

 

[woodshop]

...yeah we did kinda beat this to death on other posts... but hey I didn't mention God or Hillary did I?

I really would like a strait answer though, to my question if there is a Husky dealer out there that will answer it. (as long as he/she can do so without invoking religion of politics of course!!!)

Dave