Stihl models advice?

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The pro grade saws are definitely better built and lighter (261, 362, 400, 462 etc...) they are more expensive but repairs tend to be cheaper and easier and you tend to go much longer between repairs.

For the farm saws you'll notice the 291 and 391 weigh the same and look the same, it's because the only difference between them is the piston and cylinder, at one time they had 3 saws built on that chassis (well the previous generation of it), the 290,310,390 and it's very easy to make a 290/291 into a 390,391.

Personally I'd buy a 261 and keep the old saw as backup. If you want to have similar or more power than the 391 with better performance and lighter weight, I'd get the 362 or 400 and keep your eyes open for a used 026/260/261 at a good price.

Easy rule of thumb for Stihl model numbers is if the first two numbers are even it's probably a pro grade saw, if they're odd it's probably a homeowner/farm saw. Used to be able to look at the handles, white was pro, black or orange were home/farm. Doesn't always work (the 180/181 and the rear handle 201 come to mind) but it'll narrow it down quickly.
So, my 036Pro's are homeowner/farm saws?
 
The pro grade saws are definitely better built and lighter (261, 362, 400, 462 etc...) they are more expensive but repairs tend to be cheaper and easier and you tend to go much longer between repairs.

For the farm saws you'll notice the 291 and 391 weigh the same and look the same, it's because the only difference between them is the piston and cylinder, at one time they had 3 saws built on that chassis (well the previous generation of it), the 290,310,390 and it's very easy to make a 290/291 into a 390,391.

Personally I'd buy a 261 and keep the old saw as backup. If you want to have similar or more power than the 391 with better performance and lighter weight, I'd get the 362 or 400 and keep your eyes open for a used 026/260/261 at a good price.

Easy rule of thumb for Stihl model numbers is if the first two numbers are even it's probably a pro grade saw, if they're odd it's probably a homeowner/farm saw. Used to be able to look at the handles, white was pro, black or orange were home/farm. Doesn't always work (the 180/181 and the rear handle 201 come to mind) but it'll narrow it down quickly.
The (1141 series) 261, 271 and 291 share some parts. The (1140 series) 311, 391 and 362 share some parts.
 
I wondered: what's the difference between the MS 261 (recommended above) and the MS 291 (in stock at my dealer)?
Looking at the specs, they're totally different, even though the model numbers suggest they could be similar.
The MS 261 is a Pro saw (lighter weight, more power and magnesium case), the MS 291 is a farm/ranch saw with a plastic case.
 
And not a cool station wagon like a wood panel caprice with a big v8, think one of those yellow Subaru abominations
 
I bought a 261 to replace a 20 year old 290 Farm Boss 3 weeks ago. I wish I would have known about the pro saws 20 years ago. The 261 just rips. It’s much lighter and more powerful than my 290 was. Very happy with the purchase.
 
I might sell my older ported 261cm soon. Just waiting to find a 661 in stock.
Definitely buy the non M-tronic version of this saw (MS661). The M-tronic Version runs on the lean side and if you want to really work the saw, you’ll be glad to be able to run it on the rich side, especially for milling or large tree work. I hope you can find one, it will be well worth the wait.
 

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Definitely buy the non M-tronic version of this saw (MS661). The M-tronic Version runs on the lean side and if you want to really work the saw, you’ll be glad to be able to run it on the rich side, especially for milling or large tree work. I hope you can find one, it will be well worth the wait.
Thanks. After some reflection I decided to try the M-Tronic version this time. Reasoning is that I am at altitude, and I use my saw over a huge change in temperature between winter and summer. Electronic engine management should be a win under those operating conditions. Plus, I have a larger saw for when I want more power (traditional carb on that one).
 
You will really like your new saw! One other thing I will recommend is to turn the chain oiler all the way up. It’s on the bottom of the saw, and pretty well self explanatory on it’s markings. If you have any questions on it, the manual clearly explains it. Like I suggested earlier, read the manual on the starting and warm up of it because it is a little different than a regular carb. It really doesn’t hurt to read most of the manual, but all the dang warnings I just skip over. The other information is pretty good.👍
 
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