Stihl models advice?

[PV Hiker]

Well here it is. Thanks to everyone for their help and suggestions.

@dboreham to limit problems with a M-Tronic saw as long as I let them cold start warm up going through it's calibration checks, it's been good to go. I'll leave it in the choke start position for a minute then blip the throttle. This if for start of the day cold start. Also after cutting I'll let them run for 30 seconds to a minute depending how hot they are before shutting them off. Then they seem to restart and run better after moving to the next tree.

I think you'll enjoy the new saw just know that M-Tronics are more finnicky for start up and shut down than your other saws.
Get some loading on the saw and fuel through it.

 

[ironman_gq]

Thanks for the insight. It appears that Stihl has quite distinct saw designs targeting different price points and feature sets, but then encrypts the model numbers so it's almost impossible to remember what's what. Your decoder ring is appreciated. I feel like I should buy 2 or 3 now that I know what I'm looking at

I wonder, should I ask why they sell the 261 with a 0.325 chain on it? It seems to be the odd one out -- all the other pro saws come with 3/8.
I've read the old threads on chain which suggest I should use 3/8, which is what's on my 391. But the 0.325 has a 1.6mm gauge, quite a bit thicker than the 1.3mm gauge bar used with 0.325. So far I've never bent a bar so...

Ideally I'd run the same chain on both saws.

They put .325 on the 50cc class saws generally and 3/8LP on the under 50cc saws, then there's the .043 gauge 3/8lp on the 181, they even have a 1/4 on the really small ones and a .404 for the really big saws. You can convert the 261 to take a 3/8 chain and there's nothing wrong with that if it works in the wood you cut. I personally run an 026 with a 16" bar and 3/8, that saw gets used for general trail cleanup and almost never sees any wood bigger than 10-12" pine or poplar.

 

[Captain Bruce]

@dboreham to limit problems with a M-Tronic saw as long as I let them cold start warm up going through it's calibration checks, it's been good to go. I'll leave it in the choke start position for a minute then blip the throttle. This if for start of the day cold start. Also after cutting I'll let them run for 30 seconds to a minute depending how hot they are before shutting them off. Then they seem to restart and run better after moving to the next tree.

I think you'll enjoy the new saw just know that M-Tronics are more finnicky for start up and shut down than your other saws.
Get some loading on the saw and fuel through it.

This is spot-on advice! More over, this starting, and shutting down procedure is in the manual. That ignition chip has a memory. The learning curve gets altered with use. Fuel flow calibration starts once warmed up. Choke parameters following a HOT shut-down are recalled.

Be patient with your M-tronic Stihl, and it will reward you with decades of gas sipping power.

 

[Phecda]

what a fine looking saw.
Congrats!

 

[sean donato]

I have to say the m-tronic on my ms400cm is very much on point. 3 pull start ups and typically restarts with one pull when warm. Doest start any harder then then any of my carb saws, hot or cold.

 

[link]

Hello, I'm a homeowner but I have 10ac of mixed aspen / fir and could run my chainsaw every day if I wanted to, clearing deadfall.

Situation is as follows:

I've had an MS 391 for many years, 18" bar. It's worked well for me. Quite heavy though to use for long periods when delimbing and cutting material to go in the chipper.

A couple of years ago a neighbor moving to the city sold me his MS 180C, 16" bar. Initially it seemed like a toy but it's turned out to be quite nice for the lighter work.
Today I discovered the plastic handle molding is snapped in two underneath the saw.
Possibly I can glue it but it looks like otherwise the saw is totaled because that plastic molding looks time consuming to replace.

So I opened up the Stihl web site to look for a new saw that is lighter than my MS 391 but more durable than the MS 180C.
Also I have a note of the saws the local dealer has on hand from the last time I visited: MS 391, MS 362, MS 291
That's when I became confused. The MS 362 is a bit lighter than my 391, but much more expensive. Web site provides no clues as to why. Less plastic?
The MS 291 is the same weight but lower power, and uses a different kind of chain and lower price.

Then I found that Stihl has a chainsaw buying guide. They segment the market into homeowner, farm & ranch and professional.
Not sure how the saws know who is going to use them, but I figured I'm a farm & ranch guy, so clicked that.
Now it shows me saws that weren't displayed in the list when I clicked on chainsaws from the home page!
There's a MS 151 C-E there that says it's the lightest farm saw (6lbs) -- looks great, but it's $650! Does that mean it's not going to fall apart like the MS 180C did?
There's also a MS 194 C-E, but the web site says it's unavailable.

I'd appreciate If someone who knows the Stihl range could give me an idea which saws I should consider that are on the lighter side, for use as a second saw, that are also solid.
Are they transitioning to electric for the smaller saws, is that what's going on?

I'd like to stick with the Stihl brand for various reasons. Thanks.

So what you ended up with, curious minds wants to know

 

[dboreham]

See above. MS291-C

 

[TRTermite]

I read all the posts on this thread an never saw any one bash/defend the ms180. I have many bigger saws of Stihl/Husky/Jonsereds/some echo and when I got a 180 given to me I was really surprised/Impressed with how comfortable and light it is and how well it cut. I prefer it for topping (after tree is on the ground) the .043 gauge Low Pro chain compensates for the lower horsepower and the chain isn't as grabby for the kind of wood I cut, and it is so light. You have already bought your new toy but I thought you wanted a light saw to work with your 391.. I like my 025 saws but like the MS251 for the AV improvements, it is a clamshell saw and is far heavier than the 180 (also a homeowner clamshell). Why your handle broke on a 180 can be caused by more than one issue: accidents/abuse and may well happen to any brand/model saw. The 180 is easy to work on so be looking for a used part, fix it and put it back to work and lighten your trimming work load. Then You will have THREE saws. CAD infection on the Horizon.

 

[dboreham]

I read all the posts on this thread an never saw any one bash/defend the ms180. I have many bigger saws of Stihl/Husky/Jonsereds/some echo and when I got a 180 given to me I was really surprised/Impressed with how comfortable and light it is and how well it cut. I prefer it for topping (after tree is on the ground) the .043 gauge Low Pro chain compensates for the lower horsepower and the chain isn't as grabby for the kind of wood I cut, and it is so light. You have already bought your new toy but I thought you wanted a light saw to work with your 391.. I like my 025 saws but like the MS251 for the AV improvements, it is a clamshell saw and is far heavier than the 180 (also a homeowner clamshell). Why your handle broke on a 180 can be caused by more than one issue: accidents/abuse and may well happen to any brand/model saw. The 180 is easy to work on so be looking for a used part, fix it and put it back to work and lighten your trimming work load. Then You will have THREE saws. CAD infection on the Horizon.

Thanks, actually I did epoxy the MS180's handle the other day. Haven't tried it out yet to see if it holds together. Using it, I've found it works well for light delimbing but not so well for bucking my aspen trunks up before chipping. Agree that three chainsaws is about the ideal number

 

[ValleyForge]

I read all the posts on this thread an never saw any one bash/defend the ms180. I have many bigger saws of Stihl/Husky/Jonsereds/some echo and when I got a 180 given to me I was really surprised/Impressed with how comfortable and light it is and how well it cut. I prefer it for topping (after tree is on the ground) the .043 gauge Low Pro chain compensates for the lower horsepower and the chain isn't as grabby for the kind of wood I cut, and it is so light. You have already bought your new toy but I thought you wanted a light saw to work with your 391.. I like my 025 saws but like the MS251 for the AV improvements, it is a clamshell saw and is far heavier than the 180 (also a homeowner clamshell). Why your handle broke on a 180 can be caused by more than one issue: accidents/abuse and may well happen to any brand/model saw. The 180 is easy to work on so be looking for a used part, fix it and put it back to work and lighten your trimming work load. Then You will have THREE saws. CAD infection on the Horizon.

I run my 180 on the sawmill…it’s an indestructible saw,,,,

 

[link]

See above. MS291-C

Thats the same saw you already have conserning weight and fatuige,
You did not consider my advice, but its a good saw and it pulls a 20" if you want to stretch it.

 

[sean donato]

I read all the posts on this thread an never saw any one bash/defend the ms180. I have many bigger saws of Stihl/Husky/Jonsereds/some echo and when I got a 180 given to me I was really surprised/Impressed with how comfortable and light it is and how well it cut. I prefer it for topping (after tree is on the ground) the .043 gauge Low Pro chain compensates for the lower horsepower and the chain isn't as grabby for the kind of wood I cut, and it is so light. You have already bought your new toy but I thought you wanted a light saw to work with your 391.. I like my 025 saws but like the MS251 for the AV improvements, it is a clamshell saw and is far heavier than the 180 (also a homeowner clamshell). Why your handle broke on a 180 can be caused by more than one issue: accidents/abuse and may well happen to any brand/model saw. The 180 is easy to work on so be looking for a used part, fix it and put it back to work and lighten your trimming work load. Then You will have THREE saws. CAD infection on the Horizon.

We used them as truck saws at the township. Good saws, cheap. We had 14 and 16" bars. The 14" was well suited in hardwood imo. They always started and got zero love. Very light weight. I wouldn't want to do any serious cutting with one as they arnt very powerful, but a nice light saw tou can afford to toss if something happens to it.

 

[261cm]

Thats the same saw you already have conserning weight and fatuige,
You did not consider my advice, but its a good saw and it pulls a 20" if you want to stretch it.

Link, I think he accidentally typed the wrong number in, and that he got a 261cm.

 

[Robert K Meyer]

I am rarely on the forum, here is my late 2cents worth. I am glad you went with the 261. One person alluded to, if you wanted, you can fit a 3/8 sprocket and a 3/8-18" to 20" bar and chain to fit your MS261. Your dealer will know the sprocket number

Read the instructions on break-in. You will notice an increase in power after a few tanks of fuel when the baby grows up.

Yes Stihl is strong in the electric market. For my day of 3/4 cord lodgepole bucked into 19.2" logs, I figured I would have to take 6 or so charged batteries to do the work of 2 tankfuls of mix. If that is not enough, a bit more fuel and I'm done. Batteries I have to go home unless I have a way to charge on site. Gasoline allows independence.

 

[Mike mike]

Don't buy these **** ass chainsaw chains from China.
Total junk 72 CC saw rip the teeth right off of it bad tempering during manufacturing

 

[Alaskan Stihl]

Based on my experience…I would never purchase a new saw (Stihl or otherwise) again! They are pieces of crap and crater after a year or so of use.

Sometimes, it is better to find someone selling an older Stihl (one with some horsepower) that still starts and runs.

I actually got a free Stihl MS290 that was blown. I bought a Chinese Cyclinder & Piston…put in new Crank Seal…and it starts right up and screams through wood (going on year 3 without fault).

I have a pile of smaller saws and they all sit around and cut branches from time to time…but I break out the McCulloch Super 797, PM-610 and MS290’s when it is time to go get firewood for real…

 

[261cm]

Based on my experience…I would never purchase a new saw (Stihl or otherwise) again! They are pieces of crap and crater after a year or so of use.

Sometimes, it is better to find someone selling an older Stihl (one with some horsepower) that still starts and runs.

I actually got a free Stihl MS290 that was blown. I bought a Chinese Cyclinder & Piston…put in new Crank Seal…and it starts right up and screams through wood (going on year 3 without fault).

I have a pile of smaller saws and they all sit around and cut branches from time to time…but I break out the McCulloch Super 797, PM-610 and MS290’s when it is time to go get firewood for real…

Ain’t nothing like one of them chinese cyclinders and piston to make a Stihl run.

 

[Mike mike]

Well my 038 Magnum rip the teeth right off the cheap chain because the tempering was dog **** .. That's what I get for going with a cheap chain from China because in a pinch that's all I had
I'm just lucky the chain didn't hit me in the leg.

 

[Fyrzowt]

Southwest Montana.

We have ms261cm's here in Boise

 

[Gary Brewer]

here's what I bought about a month ago