Stihl MS200 - cause and effect - what caused this?

[ZeroJunk]

The saw ALWAYS has good fuel in it when it comes to the shop. Hard to get some people to own up.
You got great advice here. Go to it and give us an update.
Always remember- THE SUSPENSE IS KILLING US!

They are often full, curiously enough.

 

[lone wolf]

Are you still using those crap factory 200 seals?

Why you call them crap because you break them like a lot of people? I have seen them last over a decade or more!

 

[Lightning Performance]

Why you call them crap because you break them like a lot of people? I have seen them last over a decade or more!

They suck, period. Only holds like 5 psi. Regular seals hold 12. They crack once in while if you don't hand press them in like I do now. Many want those junk seals. I've moved on to the metal 260 type. Never going back to seals with no spring backer. They won't wear the crank but they fail under heat over time. Some guys/gals don't get two years out of them from clutch heat. Yes, they created the problem and smoked their clutch springs but the seals hold up longer with spring backers. Remember I prefer these saws myself and everyone I sell ported ones gets 260 type seals or they won't get the saw. It's a better seal and it won't ever crack or fail from work hardening and leak pressure like the stock seals do on many saws. They vacuum test good then leak fuel and oil running. Seen it enough times on three year old seals. When you smell fuel it's leaking. The oil left behind is the real tell on fresh cleanups. It flings around in the oil pump and stinks like gas but passes all the tests.

Imho those seals from Stihl should be replaced ever five years or less for the plastic 200 type.

That said everyone has a different plan. I also fix those carbs so that pile you have should be sent here. 9 or 10 get plugged because the piston bore is ragged from not rebuilding them sooner. Using the 020 replacement carb when going new like you do. I prefer a working pump carb myself.

 

[lone wolf]

They suck, period. Only holds like 5 psi. Regular seals hold 12. They crack once in while if you don't hand press them in like I do now. Many want those junk seals. I've moved on to the metal 260 type. Never going back to seals with no spring backer. They won't wear the crank but they fail under heat over time. Some guys/gals don't get two years out of them from clutch heat. Yes, they created the problem and smoked their clutch springs but the seals hold up longer with spring backers. Remember I prefer these saws myself and everyone I sell ported ones gets 260 type seals or they won't get the saw. It's a better seal and it won't ever crack or fail from work hardening and leak pressure like the stock seals do on many saws. They vacuum test good then leak fuel and oil running. Seen it enough times on three year old seals. When you smell fuel it's leaking. The oil left behind is the real tell on fresh cleanups. It flings around in the oil pump and stinks like gas but passes all the tests.

Imho those seals from Stihl should be replaced ever five years or less for the plastic 200 type.

That said everyone has a different plan. I also fix those carbs so that pile you have should be sent here. 9 or 10 get plugged because the piston bore is ragged from not rebuilding them sooner. Using the 020 replacement carb when going new like you do. I prefer a working pump carb myself.

 

[Lightning Performance]

View attachment 1171347

Try that that after 100 hours. You'll see.

Oh btw. The case makes 6-7 lbs both ways once the rings seat.