Stihl MS261-CM 2020 4 months old scored piston???

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

They aren’t a good milling saw. Keep it at WOT and in the cut when you use saws. If you are near WOT with just the tip in the cut - there isn’t enough load on the saw to keep the revs down.

It could be a combo of over heating, dull chain, reving it too high for too long with not enough resistance. Use fully synthetic oil 40:1

 

[Stihl-Bummer]

Thank you I did not know about a few of those!

 

[Stihl-Bummer]

They aren’t a good milling saw. Keep it at WOT and in the cut when you use saws. If you are near WOT with just the tip in the cut - there isn’t enough load on the saw to keep the revs down.

It could be a combo of over heating, dull chain, reving it too high for too long with not enough resistance. Use fully synthetic oil 40:1

Ok so make sure it’s WOT. And that it is in enough to hear some load on engine. And use full synthetic oil.

 

[full chizel]

Your personal opinion what ratio would you do.

I wouldn’t go less than 32:1 (4oz per gallon) for milling.

 

[Stihl-Bummer]

So running more oil won’t score an engine it will just make it smoke and dirty. More oil means more protection?

 

[Ittybittyfitty]

It should equal more protection, yes. Your mtronic carb should adjust to the increased oil i think...might see some spooge out of the exhaust but no biggie.

 

[Stihl-Bummer]

Ya that M-Tronic is amazing it always adjust no need to touch it. It’s the M3.0

 

[Stihl-Bummer]

Sounds like I need to buy a stronger saw than a 50.2cc.

 

[full chizel]

More oil won’t smoke of be dirty if the saw is tuned for it. The MTronic takes care of all that on its own.

 

[Stihl-Bummer]

I will be ordering the amsoil Saber. And see how that works out.

 

[drf255]

Buy dominator. If you bought Saber you’re still ok.

You went less than full throttle. That’s your issue. The MT try’s to reach the fastest rpm under load and couldn’t compensate.

Not trying to start an oil thread here, but avoid oils with high viscosity, like Motul800 and Belray H1R. They don’t work too well in 261 with Autotune at under 50:1. The thickness of the mix will make the MT go wonky-actually happened to me on a V1. The M3.0 reportedly has a bigger main jet than the earlier models And it may not apply.

You should be able to mill small stuff with your saw. It’s all about using the right tool for the job. Milling an 8” post shouldn’t have hurt your saw. I’d try 32:1 in a few long cuts to make sure the saw stays in tune and then mill away at full throttle.

 

[dmb2613]

No type of oil at any ratio will take care of not using the saw properly

 

[mountainlake]

Either way I wanted to vomit when they told me my saw was destroyed. But they are going to rebuild it all under warranty as long as I pay labor and I am glad they worked with me it’s a great dealer! Even when I thought I was doing it right I still have more to learn! Lol you do not just pick up a chainsaw and cut wood. There is a lot to it!

Why are you paying labor when it's under warranty. Steve

 

[Stihl-Bummer]

Why are you paying labor when it's under warranty. Steve

Yeah that was a long conversation with them. Simply put I said to them I was following the manual I wasn’t burying the saw. I was using the right oil mixture it’s still within the warranty. And they said well we think the chain is dull and that you should’ve been running it at 100% throttle the entire time. But if you could hear that saw at 100% on that 50 to 1 ratio and how hot it gets it sounded like it was going to explode. I mean I’ve been around other saws they’re extremely loud but they don’t spin as fast as that one did or get nearly as hot as that one did. So they came to a compromise they said they’ll replace every single internal components which is I think $400-$500 to completely rebuild it brand new. I said why not just give me a new chainsaw and he said that Stihl doesn’t do that they only contract out to rebuild whats broken and not to completely replace the saw. I saw it as a compromise all I have to do is pay for the labor. Regardless I still need a chainsaw even a craftsman chainsaw at Lowe’s is under $200 which is what I’m paying for labor. I got a lot of good info on here. To be honest I just wanted to use everything according to the manual so I could stay within warranty. But at this point I’m probably going to do a 40 to 1 ect or 32:1 ratio not use Stihl oil and do a muffler MOD. However for large projects I will be purchasing a stronger saw. Also using the saw the way I was the tree is 6 feet long about a foot and a half wide the entire length and I am making an 8 x 8 box inside. I only have a couple inches of wood that falls off slivers while I was making the beam I honestly thought the chainsaw can handle it. It’s no different than if I was cutting down a four or 5 foot wide white oak or pine tree. And then to make it into logs I would use that thing all day.

 

[Stihl-Bummer]

This is what the chainsaw died on. I really didn’t think this would cause a Stihl chainsaw so much trouble? Everything else I use the saw for was cutting logs and those white oak trees that I was talking about

 

[Stihl-Bummer]

Buy dominator. If you bought Saber you’re still ok.

You went less than full throttle. That’s your issue. The MT try’s to reach the fastest rpm under load and couldn’t compensate.

Not trying to start an oil thread here, but avoid oils with high viscosity, like Motul800 and Belray H1R. They don’t work too well in 261 with Autotune at under 50:1. The thickness of the mix will make the MT go wonky-actually happened to me on a V1. The M3.0 reportedly has a bigger main jet than the earlier models And it may not apply.

You should be able to mill small stuff with your saw. It’s all about using the right tool for the job. Milling an 8” post shouldn’t have hurt your saw. I’d try 32:1 in a few long cuts to make sure the saw stays in tune and then mill away at full throttle.

In your personal opinion what makes you like dominator over the saber oil do you use dominator in your chainsaw.

 

[ElevatorGuy]

What size bar are you using on this 261 to cut a 4’ wide white oak?

 

[lone wolf]

Thank you for the knowledge. I will use full throttle from here on out. Of course after I let it warm up for 30 sec on first use. Do you think I should use their ultra synthetic oil? Or should I use 40:1 ratio? Or keep it at 50:1

40 to 1

 

[kenton.a.frank]

Just my .02 they are probably doing a full warranty claim at Stihl and throwing a shop pizza party with your $200 of free money.


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[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Mate ask for the parts and build it yourself. You’ll need a few specialist tools, but they will easily be covered in what you’ll pay them. It’s also very likely you’ll do a better job. Take guidance and advice on here and you’ll end up with a better saw than from them and you’ll have a heap of useful tools to boot. You’ll get a free cylinder too, as your old one is very likley just fine after a clean up! Selling the cylinder alone will cover the costs of what you’ll pay the guys at the shop..

If not, find someone local to you on here, offer them a crate of beers and join them for an evening bonding session in their or your shed fixing it followed by a drink together.