Stihl MS271

[a. palmer jr.]

Just wanting overall opinions of the 271 Stihl. I have one to work on, turns out it has 90 psi compression and from what I've seen it appears the parts are a bit expensive and it looks like it's harder to work on that the older Stihl saws, like the 026, 028 etc. Wondering if it'll cost more to rebuild than the thing's worth. Any opinions appreciated.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

You never mentioned why the compression was low. If it’s worn rings, then it’s cheap, if it’s scored up, then why? Need more info

 

[a. palmer jr.]

You never mentioned why the compression was low. If it’s worn rings, then it’s cheap, if it’s scored up, then why? Need more info

I just got the saw from the owner this week so don't know much history on it. I took the muffler off and there is scarring on the piston, not the worst I've ever seen but substantial.

 

[rogue60]

Not sure why people struggle working on the ms271? it's an easy saw to work on is a bit odd in design that's about it is nothing hard about working on one.

 

[stihltech]

Need pictures.

 

[SteveSr]

I just got the saw from the owner this week so don't know much history on it. I took the muffler off and there is scarring on the piston, not the worst I've ever seen but substantial.

Check for an air leak. The transfer port covers come unglued if the engine is overheated.

 

[pioneerguy600]

If there is scarring on the piston that almost always means there is aluminum transfer built up on the cylinder walls, to keep on running a saw like that usually means it will get worse rather than better. I have heard many say to just mix the fuel much richer and run it but for me any scored piston gets pulled, the cylinder cleaned up correctly or replaced and new piston with rings, the saw has a good chance of a long life after that. Of course do a vac and pressure test after the rebuild, that is good mechanical 101.

 

[SteveSr]

If there is scarring on the piston that almost always means there is aluminum transfer built up on the cylinder walls, to keep on running a saw like that usually means it will get worse rather than better. I have heard many say to just mix the fuel much richer and run it but for me any scored piston gets pulled, the cylinder cleaned up correctly or replaced and new piston with rings, the saw has a good chance of a long life after that. Of course do a vac and pressure test after the rebuild, that is good mechanical 101.

With these it is better to check for an air leak first. If the transfer cover(s) are leaking the saw is toast as the parts to fix are more than the saw is worth.

 

[pioneerguy600]

With these it is better to check for an air leak first. If the transfer cover(s) are leaking the saw is toast as the parts to fix are more than the saw is worth.

Doesn`t mean a thing,Steve. If I want to fix a saw I do, doesn`t matter a bit to me what it costs or how much time it takes ,guess that is why I have more than a hundred saws, just 45 Stihls in my working fleet. I have found ways around many different problems the manufacturers have presented us with just by trying different things, many are not just R&R but take some alternative thinking, no saw or engine has ever beat me when it came down to repair, even multiple overhead cammed engines with built in timing defects. One needs to use what our brains can overcome and not run and hide behind printed literature either on paoer or posted on the net.

 

[ZeroJunk]

I rebuilt a MS271 about a year or two ago. If you can salvage the cylinder it's a pretty easy deal.
But, there are three hole and four hole intakes that they changed midstream, and the other little plastic doowickys are different as well. So, if you just search for MS271 parts on eBay or somewhere, be careful.

I may have that mixed up with a MS251 as far as the intake holes, but still the MS271 has two different versions as well.

 

[jltrent]

I started to rebuild a MS271 and the cylinder in the cylinder about halfway up was leaking. It must have been cracked as I have never seen this before. No way I buy a new cylinder with the cost for one of those. IMO not a very good chainsaw. The MS251, Ms271 and MS291 IMO are not near as good as what they replaced.

 

[SteveSr]

I started to rebuild a MS271 and the cylinder in the cylinder about halfway up was leaking. It must have been cracked as I have never seen this before.

No, most likely unglued transfer port cover. Not one of Stihl's better ideas.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I priced the parts and gave the saw back to the owner who asked me if I wanted it and I said no, I didn't. I cleaned it up earlier and it looked almost like a new saw but I have plenty of saws to work on, didn't need another.
I got one saw in this week that had bar oil in the gas tank and they tried to run it that way. I checked and it was in the carb also. I guess I better check the oil tank and see what they put in it..

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Not sure why people struggle working on the ms271? it's an easy saw to work on is a bit odd in design that's about it is nothing hard about working on one.

The ones I have are fairly new and they either have a scored top end or a burned plastic around the clutch. I think the owners think they're a pro saw and are working them too hard.

 

[stihltech]

These models get more than their fair share of a abuse. Most of what I see came from a dull chain being pushed. The best saw we had for the uneducated homeowner was the 029/290. Very few actual failures, usually straight gassed.

 

[SteveSr]

The ones I have are fairly new and they either have a scored top end or a burned plastic around the clutch. I think the owners think they're a pro saw and are working them too hard.

The burned plastic around the clutch is either from lugging the saw and slipping the clutch but more likely the saw was left in part throttle (starting position) with the chain brake on.

 

[albinoguitman]

I have a MS271. It is my 1st saw. All of your assumptions are correct. I'd never used a chainsaw much before. 1st day I used it I went over with my brother in law to cut up some silver maple anywhere from 10" logs to 36" logs. He gave me some cash for Christmas that year to help me purchase it. We were cutting up some of the small stuff and he said yer chain looks loose go tighten it up. I ended up breaking the screw part on the slide. (that's how i learned from him to loosen up the nuts before adjusting the slide). He saw me struggling and smoking to get through a log and told me I'd better stop pushing my saw so hard or I'm going to burn it up. I pulled my bar out of the log and he asked if i have another chain which of course I didn't. He said my chain looked like a butter knife and I better stop trying to cut wood. At that point I switched to an old Pioneer that my in laws have so i wasn't just standing around watching.

What I'm saying as a new saw owner not owning 1 before I have probably pushed it a little hard on my 1st day of use especially since it has the 20" bar. I have done some research though and now I have 5 chains. 1 that came on the saw. 1 Oregon 20LGX081G and 3 JF Industry LC81 Full Chisel. Now I use 1 of the more "aggressive" chains most of the time and instead trying to cut wood with a butter knife I'm cutting wood like its butter. I even have one of those chintzy chainsaw mills that I cut a honey locust log into boards with.

After all of that though, do any of you have any upgrade/modification advice for improvements on the MS271?

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[jltrent]

Had a guy wanting to give me a parts MS291 a few days ago. I thanked him and handed it back. I am sure in the long run though with the guy I would have had to pay him back also for what little these bring on the market for parts I would not want it in my way. Had a tree company mention to me their MS251s would not rev high. Probably stopped up sealed EPA mufflers IMO, but I did not speculate to them. They had always used MS250s with a lot of luck before.

 

[jltrent]

I have a MS271. It is my 1st saw. All of your assumptions are correct. I'd never used a chainsaw much before. 1st day I used it I went over with my brother in law to cut up some silver maple anywhere from 10" logs to 36" logs. He gave me some cash for Christmas that year to help me purchase it. We were cutting up some of the small stuff and he said yer chain looks loose go tighten it up. I ended up breaking the screw part on the slide. (that's how i learned from him to loosen up the nuts before adjusting the slide). He saw me struggling and smoking to get through a log and told me I'd better stop pushing my saw so hard or I'm going to burn it up. I pulled my bar out of the log and he asked if i have another chain which of course I didn't. He said my chain looked like a butter knife and I better stop trying to cut wood. At that point I switched to an old Pioneer that my in laws have so i wasn't just standing around watching.

What I'm saying as a new saw owner not owning 1 before I have probably pushed it a little hard on my 1st day of use especially since it has the 20" bar. I have done some research though and now I have 5 chains. 1 that came on the saw. 1 Oregon 20LGX081G and 3 JF Industry LC81 Full Chisel. Now I use 1 of the more "aggressive" chains most of the time and instead trying to cut wood with a butter knife I'm cutting wood like its butter. I even have one of those chintzy chainsaw mills that I cut a honey locust log into boards with.

After all of that though, do any of you have any upgrade/modification advice for improvements on the MS271?

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Open up the sealed fully baffled junk muffler, but you will need to add fuel to keep the proper air/fuel mixture after or you can fry the overheated piston.

 

[jltrent]

Check for an air leak. The transfer port covers come unglued if the engine is overheated.

It wasn't the ports it was the cylinder. I did check for leaks and that was what I found.