Stihl MS660 Avgas 100LL

[Dave2500]

Hello
Im new, i dont know if this is the right place to post,

Any way i got a new Ms660 and only ran one tank of the motomix through it (came in it)

i went to the airport and got 100 LL and i am using the stihl ultra oil,

to run 100ll do i need to do anything to the carb settings

Will it run to rich or lean if i dont do anything

Thanks
Dave

 

[mdavlee]

It will be rich if any thing on that fuel. Just tune it to what it was set on with regular fuel. Do you have a tach to tune with?

 

[Dave2500]

no i dont have a tach, if i just leave the setting stock will it be ok because i herd that they run a little lean from the factory

 

[sachsmo]

I bought my first big saw years ago.

Soon found out there were little to no parts available for them (153 Sachs Dolmar)

I use VP 110 and Klotz tecniplate in my milling saws, a saw can see no torture greater than milling!


After milling many slabs with that old gal she still runs and mills GREAT!

People will tell you more octane does nothing but slow a saw down and waste your money?

They could be right? but not many of them have put a saw through what I have

 

[sachsmo]

Welcome to the site Dave!

 

[sachsmo]

The higher the octane, the more resistant to knock or pre-ignition it is.

It also burns a bit slower, I tune mine to "blubber' a bit out of the cut and clean up under load.

 

[Dave2500]

so should i be ok on the stock carb settings or try to change them? how much bubble is enough?

 

[sachsmo]

Depends kinda sort of.

You should be able to hammer it full throttle out of the cut (with bar and chain on) and it should not over rev, but stumble or "blubber" a bit.

Then give her another 16th or so (turn out CCW on the H )for a milling tune.

Also use good synthetic oyl and mix at least 32:1 if you are doing sustained long cuts.

Give yourself and the saw a rest from time to time. Let the saw idle during the 'rest periods' eh?

 

[Dave2500]

Depends kinda sort of.

You should be able to hammer it full throttle out of the cut (with bar and chain on) and it should not over rev, but stumble or "blubber" a bit.

Then give her another 16th or so (turn out CCW on the H )for a milling tune.

Also use good synthetic oyl and mix at least 32:1 if you are doing sustained long cuts.

Give yourself and the saw a rest from time to time. Let the saw idle during the 'rest periods' eh?

what is the best oil to use, i cut some big pieces and do some ripping of logs?

Thanks for the info,

when i buy a tach should i tune it to the max rpm or like 300 under max?

Thanks
Dave

 

[sachsmo]

Oyl is like girls, there are so many who could choose one for you?

Just get a synthetic name brand. Yamalube 2T is about as good and cheap as you'll find and available at your nearest Yamaha dealer.

If you have a good ear you wont need a tach, a 660 should rev to 'bout 12.500-13,000 and still "stumble" a little bit, then just give her a bit more (CCW on the H )

 

[mdavlee]

KLotz, belray, maxima, stihl HP, and many other good oils. Just pick one and go with it.

 

[BobL]

A modern saw like a 660 will run fine with 50:1 on a mill. Extra lube just adds to the unburnt smoke suppressant gunk that further fouls the air around the operator. Modern lubes are so good at masking smoke with smoke suppressants we can get away with using more lube as we never see it but it is there.

I use 500 RPM below max to be really sure.

One of the most critical things about milling is always ensuring a sharp, well set chain. If it's on song and the log is sloped it should cut without any pressure under the saw/mills own weight.

 

[big mog]

your wasting your money using avgas, its formulated for 4 stroke aircraft engines running at constant rpm at altitude, not for 2 stroke chainsaws, and as for all the advice about mixing oil at 32:1, 40:1 etc, the saw and modern semi or full synth oils are designed to run at 50:1 mixes, anything else will lead to your saw running lean and melting pistons eventually, the boffins that come up with the factory formulations are a lot cleverer than than you back room boffins

 

[Locust Cutter]

your wasting your money using avgas, its formulated for 4 stroke aircraft engines running at constant rpm at altitude, not for 2 stroke chainsaws, and as for all the advice about mixing oil at 32:1, 40:1 etc, the saw and modern semi or full synth oils are designed to run at 50:1 mixes, anything else will lead to your saw running lean and melting pistons eventually, the boffins that come up with the factory formulations are a lot cleverer than than you back room boffins

I'm not sure if you're being serious or sarcastic. Ether way, wow. For milling and sustained (at or near) w.o.t. periods in big logs/milling/decent load (coincidentally similar to the run regimen of a G.A. engine) AVgas works quite well as does any synthetic mix of 32:1 and above, tuned accordingly to the mix and conditions. I like AVgas in the summer for my saws as it runs cooler in 100 degree (F)+ heat, stands-up to detonation better in the heat and doesn't go bad nearly like the Crapahol blends do... Nor does it have near the water content or offensive odor. What by chance, is a "back room Boffin" anyway? Inquiring minds would like to know.
opcorn:

 

[john taliaferro]

I wouldn't want to breathe the lead in the avgas .

 

[Locust Cutter]

It goes well withe the leaded paint I chewed as a child... In all seriousness, it bothers me less than Ethanol fumes do. Might be from my G.A. background as there's nothing like the smells of AV oil and gas in a radial engine, while a Stearman's warming up on a Spring day... Makes me want to go flying... Sawing is the next best thing (after motorcycles and boats of course).

 

[john taliaferro]

Ch 34 Sikorsky redial no flywheel tell you pumped oil in . It would blow smoke rings 1/8 mile at 10 degrees on a 8" straight pipe while loping like a big block . 115/ 145 octane 200 gal just to warm it up .

 

[windthrown]

I wouldn't want to breathe the lead in the avgas .

No shyte. Lead even in small quantities leads to serious nerve damage (including brain damage). It smells good, but the good smell is what makes leaded gas so toxic. Lead tastes sweet which is why kids tend to eat lead paint and why leaded gas smelled good in the old days. Also the lead in gas will foul the bearings in the low end. These newer saws are not designed to run with any lead in the gas, nor are they designed to run on gas with octane higher than 93 (mixed with oil it drops to about 90).

Also running more oil in a 2-stroke is not a bad idea. 32:1 is used by more and more saw owners these days, especially if they are ported in any way. Mastermind now requires all his ported saws be run with at least 40:1, and recommends 32:1 after dealing with low end damage on some saws running leaner oil mixes. I run at 45:1 myself, mostly stock or muffler modded saws. I also run supreme unleaded no ethanol E0 gas in my saws, with 100% Elf synthetic oil.

 

[Dave2500]

i overlooked the lead part...... in the 60's gas had 4grams of lead per gallon and AVgas now has 2.12 (i think) i just never though of it because it is used in a ton of plaines, i though it would be better for the saw because i can not get any E free gas in commie NJ. any ideas, i do not cut that much wood maybe 5 gallons a year

 

[Trx250r180]

my saws have over 200 psi comp and work fine with pump gas ,i even mill with my saws ,and have not had any piston problems ,i do run 32 to 1 oil for extra protection