Stone Behind Wood Stove Project - Question

[Cambium]

So looking around at some pictures I have an idea for the bottom(last pic) but a lot of pictures dont show the gap anywhere.


Riverfront Vacation Cabin in Washington State at Stevens Pass

Source: http://www.positivechimney.com/stovehearthgallery.aspx?source=stoves stone hearths

 

[Fred Wright]

At risk of answering a question that wasn't asked... I'd like to add some thoughts if I may.

With this project you're talkin' a lot of weight. Please, ensure that the floor is capable of supporting the weight of the stove, Durock and river stone.

 

[us2bnuts]

allright. As a contractor i'll add my $.02 worth. If you are using real rock you will need to go all the way to the floor for support. You also need to make sure the floor will carry the weight. I don't know what your walls are made of but you might consider removing the plaster or drywall almost to the area you want to rock. Install the durarock directly to the studs and cover with rock to about a inch past the edge of the durarock and onto the drywall. You should also do the floor first and then the wall. I don't know what building codes are in your area so BEFORE doing anything call your county building department and your insurance company to find out for sure just what is required in your area. You don't want to do all this work only to find out that your insurance company will no longer cover you. Good luck with your project. Take your time, do your homework, and enjoy doing work you can be proud of.:cool2:

 

[certified106]

As far as the different hearth pictures that you posted go, you have to remember that every stove and installation are different. My alderlea T6 has a 6" clearance to combustibles meaning I can have the back of my stove 6" off of drywall with no problem. I also have no r value for the bottom of the hearth and the only requirement is ember protection.

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Henry and Wanda]

Hey Cambium,
Ok, I've read your response to my statement, but don't quite understand your thinking. If the baseboard never got hot, then the walls shouldn't be getting hot either...right? So then if you're just putting the river rock on for apperance, why are you bothering with air gaps behind the wall, because the baseboard is just as close to the stove as the wall, actually probably 1/2" closer. I'm not trying to give you a hard time, just want to understand. I've done this very same thing before (a couple of times) and there is a lot to think about....clearances, combusibles, insurance companies etc !!!! Good luck !!!!!




Henry and Wanda

 

[farmboss45]

Cement is not combustible. The stones will be set on the durock board.

The issue is the wall behind the durock, also, some codes require a metal barrier under the flooring of a stove. Just some things to think about. I would check on the building codes and insurance regulations and requirements on your policy.

 

[kevin j]

Combustibles have a flash or burn point where they will burn, but there is another phenomenon where lower temperature exposure for a long time can cause the flash point of the wood or paper to lower. So having the inside of the wall 'hot' for a long time still could cause issues.
Sounds like that is not your concern though.

Here, there are also codes that require a metal 90 degree flashing behind the joint from the wall to floor, and from the front of the brick or rock floor to the tile. The idea is that with wall or floor motions, any grout or concrete joint can open up at corners, a small hot ember can drop down into the gap, and possibly cause a slow burn that ignites later.

Some of these issues sound awful picky, and 'we never needed that in the good old days', but when the consequences of a fire are pretty serious, I tend to be the conservative belt and suspenders type of guy when I put in our stove.

 

[rmount]

i've lost what the focus of your project was. Are you just doing this for looks or as a heat shield to reduce your minimum clearance to combustibles?

 

[stihly dan]

If the clearances are met on the stove. Rock is for looks. Why not have the stone an inch of the wall and a couple of the floor. (with some kind of stone support) and a ft or so from the ceiling. So when the stone warms up it can create convection heat to aid in heating more of the air. The stove will then be more efficient.

 

[farmboss45]

i've lost what the focus of your project was. Are you just doing this for looks or as a heat shield to reduce your minimum clearance to combustibles?

I agree, the OP simply asked our opinion on what we thought looked better, at the floor or above the baseboard. I think at the floor, This eliminates the wood trim from the stove area, and provides a nice break-up in the room as stone is a great accent in any rustic setting. The other posts and suggestions are food for thought. Good Luck on your project!

 

[Cambium]

I agree, the OP simply asked our opinion on what we thought looked better, at the floor or above the baseboard. I think at the floor, This eliminates the wood trim from the stove area, and provides a nice break-up in the room as stone is a great accent in any rustic setting. The other posts and suggestions are food for thought. Good Luck on your project!

Yes thank you. Although I do appreciate all feedback I also lost track of what I had asked. lol

 

[Cambium]

Not only is there a gap behind the rock but even the studs themselves have gaps.

This project was for looks because the distance to combustibles was fine as is. But I didnt want to take a chance of the stone heating up the sheetrock so I left the gap.

 

[Cambium]

Now I have to figure out what to do with the unfinished sides and top. I assume I have to leave the top as is for the air?

Any suggestions or constructive critism are welcome. What about a wood trim to finish the sides?

(corner stones wouldnt have worked)

 

[rmount]

Mill a mantle, this is one I made for a (bashful) friend. I think it was 2 1/2" maple.

View attachment 250664

 

[Cambium]

Mill a mantle, this is one I made for a (bashful) friend. I think it was 2 1/2" maple.

Nice. But doesnt it need that air gap on top? What did you use for the sides?

P.S - Floor is next and it will be close to the bottom of the Stone with a small gap in between.

 

[rmount]

Nice. But doesnt it need that air gap on top? What did you use for the sides?

P.S - Floor is next and it will be close to the bottom of the Stone with a small gap in between.

We didn't bother with an air gap as it was flush to the wall but I was thinking you could drill a series of hole to make the rear of the mantle into a grill.

 

[mountainmandan]

I cut strips of durock to make my air space behind my heat shield, when screwed off it is solid. I also agree with others that you need to go to the floor and find out what is under the floor holding everything up. It will be extremely frustrating trying to get lick and stick to stay stuck to your cement board. I can imagine real river rock will just about drive you crazy. You are going to be messing up the trim anyway from working above it, so you already need to replace it. It is just 2 or three boards. Just save the boards and cut out a return to cover the old miter and you are set. Also if you are replacing the floor, or tiling, you need to see how many floors you have to begin with. That shoe molding tells me you already have 2 or more floors. or maybe not, you just have to see.

Dan

 

[Cambium]

What is your "professional" opinion on the gap here at the floor? Is that enough?? I put 2 tiles there assuming the grout is 1/4" as well. There's about 1/2" of gap space at the bottom.

Thoughts?