Structure of heavy head leaning DF already with a split up the back

Wesspur
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sierratree

sierratree

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Nov 21, 2010
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Location
Sierra mtns, California
Solid wood, heavy head lean, DF, already split up the backside.....What are the internal characteristics of a very dead, but solid, DF, heavy head lean? Thinking of throwing a chain around the stem, chinching it tight with a chain tightener, to keep the split intact. 1/4 to 1/3 undercut. Boring backcut. Might trade out my boots for my running shoes on this one.........This tree is at least a 4 footer, maybe in the mid 50's. Lots of tension, about a 120 footer.
 
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Regardless of a bore cut, be prepared for it to take off early on ya.

Wonder if it'll pull some roots or just snap off somewhere?

Definitely is longbar territory, keep your kisser out of the way!
 
yeah..............root pull is on my list, this is on the top of a cutbank, and i can see the swan dive in my mind........haven't had much DF experience. how does it behave?
 
the punky one is still standing............fire danger has been too high to cut........will keep everyone posted on that one......should have some pics for this one by Tues eve.
 
RandyMac said:
Oh Boy!

Maybe a pilgrimage is in order.
Click to expand...

That's what I was thinking. If he can wait 'til the rains come this winter it would only be a couple of hour drive for me. Come on over, you can crash at our place.

By the way, the last time I was in that area I noticed they'd taken down the Wanted posters for you. You could probably go back now. :D
 
Understood heavy head lean, but the first thing that comes to mind is that, bored or not, can you fall it so that your back cut is perpindicular to the fracture?

If not, could you bore in just in front of the fracture and out the back, and then deal with the remaining wood, whether bore again and out or a back cut?

These can be pretty tough, exciting, but lots lf pondering. Once you start cuttting on crap like that, I seem to tlhink something along the lines of "well ####, here we go. I hope this works."

Randy and Bob, you make me laugh.
 
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The fracture has already separated from the stem. The fracture is connected at the stump, then peels away going up the stem around 30' then reconnects upwards from there. So I was planning on chaining the facture to the stem, cutting the tension on the fracture, getting rid of enough to get a decent undercut and backcut in, and so I could treat the situation as if there was no fracture at all. Situationally, what is left if the very heavy head lean and the cut bank at the base.
 
Yo! Hammer!

Splits are tricky, if too much wood is cut on one side, the stem may want to walk around. Boring in may work, however, there is the possibility of other internal cracks that might trap the bar. A Coos Bay cut is probably the safest. At any rate, close attention is required. As for the undercut, I would go nearly half way in, as steep and deep as you can get away with. High stump that sucker.
 
Just how big a chain? How are you going to tension it? Are you ready to dodge that chain if it breaks?

I have never chained or strapped a tree, of any kind.
 
By the description I would cut the strap loose and then cut it off the tree. If the tree moves at all you are into a sticky situation. I'd guess it won't move though. I would then bore the tree to check the soundness and do a complete visual inspection. Try to determine how deep that split is. Fall the tree inline with the split so it will fall as one piece.

I don't like the idea of a bore cut here but the other guys know more than I do. I would rather do a slightly wide Coos Bay. It sounds as if directional control is not a big issue, right? Use a long bar and cut FAST! Best have a backup saw just as big as your primary saw in case the tree grabs your saw.

Oops forgot, no chaining this tree!

Of course I have not seen this tree and I don't know what your skill level is. Be safe. Leave it if it above your skillset.

The problem with a head leaner is the build up of potential energy in the tensioned and compressed fibers of this Douglass-fir. You have almost no directional control either. All of that energy will be released in a few seconds. When you add in defects like a split or rot that energy release won't be linear but will occur suddenly and unpredictably. Maybe that is why someone did not cut down this tree.
 
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2dogs said:
By the description I would cut the strap loose and then cut it off the tree. If the tree moves at all you are into a sticky situation. I'd guess it won't move though. I would then bore the tree to check the soundness and do a complete visual inspection. Try to determine how deep that split is. Fall the tree inline with the split so it will fall as one piece.

I don't like the idea of a bore cut here but the other guys know more than I do. I would rather do a slightly wide Coos Bay. It sounds as if directional control is not a big issue, right? Use a long bar and cut FAST! Best have a backup saw just as big as your primary saw in case the tree grabs your saw.

Oops forgot, no chaining this tree!

Of course I have not seen this tree and I don't know what your skill level is. Be safe. Leave it if it above your skillset.
Click to expand...

Thats what I'm thinking.
 

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