2treeornot2tree
Dont cry, just do it
Do you have a link to where you bought your wheel?
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Stump grinder teeth sharpening
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Fairbanks Stump
iStumpgrinder
Unfortunately I bought mine from Alpine machine you'll have to contact them
2treeornot2tree
Dont cry, just do it
Fairbanks Stump
iStumpgrinder
No he is in a little town south of Olympia Washington
This is what a new wheel looks like if you can find one else where I'd in courage you to do so! There are plenty of mmfgrs that make them I found a few on a google search you just need to call and talk to people
This is what a new wheel looks like if you can find one else where I'd in courage you to do so! There are plenty of mmfgrs that make them I found a few on a google search you just need to call and talk to people
Mike Boyer
ArboristSite Member
My own personal setup is a Vac and or Blower plus half face Respirator for Safety--This is ESSENTIAL!--and with a big airgun and a few custom fabbed depth gauges I can swap teeth on my 76HP tow behind in 10 minutes or less. Even less time on the RG50 or the little 25HP "Promark" based custom. I buy CAMEL brand green wheels from MSG mainly (machine tool supply), 8" Dia., 36 GRIT---Go rough, we aren't sharpening tools for the Southbend or the Bridgeport here. First you Dress your Grey wheel (with a Diamond single point) to a keen corner in order to grind away (Back Grind) the steel supporting the carbide enough so that when you grind the Carbide itself, you won't be grinding steel as well. If you execute this setup correctly, you can quickly rotate "New"or "Newer" to the high pockets on the powerful machine(s), and the re-sharps to the smaller machines all while maintaining the hierarchy of "Healthiest" teeth in the most demanding locations, and the most re-sharpened (half or more even) relegated to the lowest pockets on the smallest machine. I've also found that Proteeth by Rayco outcut anything else on the Big Dog, but not by enough to justify the price to me.
Sharp teeth really are important, running dull isn't just slow, it will beat up your bearings, shafts, turntable etc. Running dull is False economy. Also, if you can't find the 36 grit, go for the 46 grit, Either one will cut SO Much faster than the 180 or 240 grit or whatever wheel they might try to sell you--that's toolroom stuff, we don't need super fine surface finish. Diamond wheels are fine as well, but the same rules apply--Grind carbide ONLY-not the steel (or you'll clog/rapid wear it) and chase down the Coarsest grit you can. Still, the cost of diamond doesn't pay off in speed or lifespan over the "Grey wheel/Green wheel" Setup. That's my .02, but I've been at it for around 20 years and have converted a few people along the way. I've also Brazed on replacement carbides where the steel was healthy enough to support it--Rayco Proteeth mainly.
Depending on your local flavor of dirt, it may pay to hardface the leading edge of your pockets--I've done that as well, and weighed them to avoid a balance problem but found that it really wasn't needed (weighing that is).
We've got a lot of Scrub Pine here in Jersey--on the north edge of the Pine Barrens(!) and even the biggest machine with dull teeth will look like you're trying to cut a Truck tire with a Ball Pein Hammer. Also, if you can't find the coarse wheels listed, call around and ask, Camel is from Israel (one's I've gotten) and they're worth the special order.
I've tried the hand grinder on the machine deal and it just isn't as quick or easy as a proper shop work station setup, and most days I only change out the highest teeth-the next row down sometimes every 5th time and so forth. Beyond that, I keep the bearings greased, have spares on the shelf and on the small machine I've found the 15 dollar chinese bearings last just as long as the 100 dollar Timkens. Big machine, different story, but do shop around, i recently bought 4 double row 2 15/16" pillow block bearings for $186/ea, Link-Belt branded Timken, but I also was quoted over $500/ea for the same part from the dealer(!)
We've got really sandy dirt here, so we try not to drag it into the cut as much as can be avoided if it's a big stump and we have to use the small portable, but eventually it's pretty much unavoidable...And the one last thing is that I always use Loctite bearing mount when setting new bearings. I've never had shaft wear when 620 Stud n bearing mount is applied, BUT--the trick is to be sure you have a fast clean shot to the correct landing spot on the shaft-it sets quick and you pretty much need some real heat to get them loose once they set. Yup, I'm "AR", but I hope I helped someone, Regards, Mike
Sharp teeth really are important, running dull isn't just slow, it will beat up your bearings, shafts, turntable etc. Running dull is False economy. Also, if you can't find the 36 grit, go for the 46 grit, Either one will cut SO Much faster than the 180 or 240 grit or whatever wheel they might try to sell you--that's toolroom stuff, we don't need super fine surface finish. Diamond wheels are fine as well, but the same rules apply--Grind carbide ONLY-not the steel (or you'll clog/rapid wear it) and chase down the Coarsest grit you can. Still, the cost of diamond doesn't pay off in speed or lifespan over the "Grey wheel/Green wheel" Setup. That's my .02, but I've been at it for around 20 years and have converted a few people along the way. I've also Brazed on replacement carbides where the steel was healthy enough to support it--Rayco Proteeth mainly.
Depending on your local flavor of dirt, it may pay to hardface the leading edge of your pockets--I've done that as well, and weighed them to avoid a balance problem but found that it really wasn't needed (weighing that is).
We've got a lot of Scrub Pine here in Jersey--on the north edge of the Pine Barrens(!) and even the biggest machine with dull teeth will look like you're trying to cut a Truck tire with a Ball Pein Hammer. Also, if you can't find the coarse wheels listed, call around and ask, Camel is from Israel (one's I've gotten) and they're worth the special order.
I've tried the hand grinder on the machine deal and it just isn't as quick or easy as a proper shop work station setup, and most days I only change out the highest teeth-the next row down sometimes every 5th time and so forth. Beyond that, I keep the bearings greased, have spares on the shelf and on the small machine I've found the 15 dollar chinese bearings last just as long as the 100 dollar Timkens. Big machine, different story, but do shop around, i recently bought 4 double row 2 15/16" pillow block bearings for $186/ea, Link-Belt branded Timken, but I also was quoted over $500/ea for the same part from the dealer(!)
We've got really sandy dirt here, so we try not to drag it into the cut as much as can be avoided if it's a big stump and we have to use the small portable, but eventually it's pretty much unavoidable...And the one last thing is that I always use Loctite bearing mount when setting new bearings. I've never had shaft wear when 620 Stud n bearing mount is applied, BUT--the trick is to be sure you have a fast clean shot to the correct landing spot on the shaft-it sets quick and you pretty much need some real heat to get them loose once they set. Yup, I'm "AR", but I hope I helped someone, Regards, Mike
stormchaser
ArboristSite Lurker
I CAN SHARPEN YOU TEETH CUPOCOFFEE I HAVE A STUMP GRINDER TEETH SHARPENING SERVICE IN dEATSVILLE AL. IVE BEEN SHARPENING A FEW YEARS FOR MY GRINDERS AND DESIDED TO OPEN UP A DAVIDSHARPENING BUSINESS I USE SURFACE GRINDERS FOR FAST TOOTH SHARPENING SO CALL ME AT 334-201-0361 ILL HAVE A WEB SITE UP IN A FEW DAYS .... CALL ME AT 334-201-0361
stormchaser
ArboristSite Lurker
WHY SIT OUT ALDAY AN SHARPEN YOUR TEETH WHEN YOU CAN PAY SOMEONE ELSE TO DO IT....IM SURE YOU LOVE TO BE DOING SOMETHING ELSE WITH YOUR FAMILYS OR FISHING .. THATS SET UP FOR SHARPENING STUMP GRINDER TEETH FAST AN WE CAN DO JUST THAT VERY FAST SHARPENING TEETH SERVICE WE DONT USE GREEN WHEELS CALL US @ 334-201-0361 DAVIDSHARPENINGSERVICE THANKS IM DAVID
Mike Boyer
ArboristSite Member
I'll say it again, Keeping Sharp teeth on (at least) the primary-"Highest" pockets Goes A LONG way towards extending the life/avoiding problems elsewhere on the machine. The money saved on Bearings, Belts/drive-train and just General damage imparted by "Hammering" with dull teeth as opposed to "Cutting" with Sharp teeth just can't be Underestimated--Even the Trade-in/Resale will be markedly higher on a well kept machine, since most Aren't well-kept.
Here in Jersey we have Sand and soft Pine, so what works here may be somewhat different than what works elsewhere, But I would encourage Anyone in the Business to treat Stumper Teeth the same as you would your Chainsaw Chain, or ANY cutting tool, These "Cutting Tools" are your main "Money makers", Learn how to Sharpen them for your conditions, and Keep them sharp!
Here in Jersey we have Sand and soft Pine, so what works here may be somewhat different than what works elsewhere, But I would encourage Anyone in the Business to treat Stumper Teeth the same as you would your Chainsaw Chain, or ANY cutting tool, These "Cutting Tools" are your main "Money makers", Learn how to Sharpen them for your conditions, and Keep them sharp!
2treeornot2tree
Dont cry, just do it
Don't pay someone to sharpen your teeth when it's easy to do it yourself.
Does anybody know of someone who has a stump grinder teeth sharpening buisness. One where I can get teeth back within 2 days?
2treeornot2tree
Dont cry, just do it
I sharpen and also retirement my sandvik teeth myself!
2treeornot2tree
Dont cry, just do it
Are you a sit sponsor?
2treeornot2tree
Dont cry, just do it
That guy is you. I can retipped my teeth for $4 a piece. I ha entry had any teeth break prematurely from sharpening without coolent.
2treeornot2tree
Dont cry, just do it
He wants out because he iant.making any money
We don't sharpen or have them sent out to sharpen. Beat them to death and replace with new. To me, trying to save money by sharpening is like a dime holding up a dollar.
Jeff
Jeff
Mike Boyer
ArboristSite Member
Sharpening depends on a few things. IF the machine is small, and low powered, then dull teeth will really slow it down. Also, trying to grind a scrub Pine (any South Jersey Pine), with a small light machine with dull teeth is about like trying to cut up an old truck tire with a sledgehammer! In other words, it's an exercise in futility!
A heavier, High powered machine can get away with grinding with dull teeth, and I've always used the fastest machine I can for the job, but there are those occasions where the 25HP self propelled machine was the only one that could access a certain spot. With a machine that gets used rarely, and only 6 pairs of teeth on the wheel, Sharpening is a sensible option. The other exception might be "Pro-teeth", and there I braze on new inserts. If you're set-up right, Brazing is quicker than sharpening, and the Rayco Pro-teeth are worth at least 1 re-tip before replacement.
Regarding "Heat" and sharpening, well I can tell you that you can't braze with a candle!
A heavier, High powered machine can get away with grinding with dull teeth, and I've always used the fastest machine I can for the job, but there are those occasions where the 25HP self propelled machine was the only one that could access a certain spot. With a machine that gets used rarely, and only 6 pairs of teeth on the wheel, Sharpening is a sensible option. The other exception might be "Pro-teeth", and there I braze on new inserts. If you're set-up right, Brazing is quicker than sharpening, and the Rayco Pro-teeth are worth at least 1 re-tip before replacement.
Regarding "Heat" and sharpening, well I can tell you that you can't braze with a candle!
It is a localized heat when grinding vs/ overall when brazing. Coolant is nice, few people would have that option themselves. I would guess that 90% of any sharpening is done free hand on green or black silicon carbide wheels/ very messy. As the tips become rounded the tooth must be relieved below the cutting edge junction of carbide and steel, simply trying to get an edge back by grinding down the carbide only with a diamond wheel generally would leave the carbide to thin and result in breakage when used. Yes I sharpen them commercially sure isn't a favorite job - I can replace tips as well which is simpler but still requires grinding so that the carbide is not hanging out past the steel support or it will just snap off. Very dull teeth on any machine causes undue stress to drive train, use of a lot more fuel, and just plain takes longer- time is money.
Mike Boyer
ArboristSite Member
Yup, back grind the steel, goto 8" for 46grit or 12" for 36 grit. Big tool grinder wheel, beyond what most will ever buy. I got a setup years ago from a tool/die shop selloff, complete with a HEPA vac and dozens of coarse wheels-never mind all the fine ones I'll never use. And yes it's messy and just not worth it for the most part. Perhaps the sandy soil here is a factor, but I never had heat related fails on any teeth I sharpened.
*Most Important* anyone considering grinding-ALL SKIN and LUNGS Must Be protected from Carbide grinding dust!!! If you don't know how Deadly the dust is-Don't even consider grinding!!!
*Most Important* anyone considering grinding-ALL SKIN and LUNGS Must Be protected from Carbide grinding dust!!! If you don't know how Deadly the dust is-Don't even consider grinding!!!
2treeornot2tree
Dont cry, just do it
Maybe you two are of the same person?
Chris Weaver
New Member
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