SUCCESS!!! Just repaired Stihl 045/056 Bosch electronic ignition!!!!!

[Chazz]

Great job Chazz.I will be trying the Foggysail trick soon can you tell me what you did to connect the white wire in the Bosch electronics.
After you soften and cleaned the potting what wire did you cut and what did you solder your white wire too?
Any help is great.
Kash

Hi Kash. Yes as pogo says read and see photo's here: https://www.arboristsite.com/thread...bosch-electronic-ignition.256095/post-4800770
Also for your information it is a very thin band or ribbon of copper (as in a printed circuit) that you cut and then attach your new wire to. Be aware that this band is very flimsy and my first attempt broke off when bending the wire into position before filling in with epoxy. Better to bend wire and have it in its final position before soldering, using a clip or small clamp to keep it in place while soldering. As Foggysail says this is not a difficult task as long as you take your time and do it correctly. I also did continuity tests on my work as I went along to try and eliminate any shorts to earth etc. Foggy also mentions the black kill switch wire on the 045/056 saws are usually defective due to the insulation breaking up but on my 041 saw the black ignition kill switch wire was in excellent condition. Have fun my friend and please let the guys here know how it pans out. My saw was used again yesterday for around one and a half hours and never missed a beat :0)

 

[Sheabert]

Please Help! I have an 056AV that had the classic symptoms - cut out after 5-10 minutes of run time and wouldn't start until it cooled back off. I did the fix outlined in this thread (thanks a million for your efforts by the way).
The fix seemed to go well, I am pretty sure got the proper capacitor, and installed per the instructions. I also replaced the cracked kill switch wire. I re-assembled the saw to test the spark before I epoxied everything back in, and turned the crank with a cordless drill. I am getting no spark at low RPM, only after revving the engine fairly high with the drill do I get spark. It seems like much faster than the pull-cord would be able to turn it over.
Any idea what's wrong? Did I do something wrong in the process, or is there a separate issue going on?

Thanks!

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Please Help! I have an 056AV that had the classic symptoms - cut out after 5-10 minutes of run time and wouldn't start until it cooled back off. I did the fix outlined in this thread (thanks a million for your efforts by the way).
The fix seemed to go well, I am pretty sure got the proper capacitor, and installed per the instructions. I also replaced the cracked kill switch wire. I re-assembled the saw to test the spark before I epoxied everything back in, and turned the crank with a cordless drill. I am getting no spark at low RPM, only after revving the engine fairly high with the drill do I get spark. It seems like much faster than the pull-cord would be able to turn it over.
Any idea what's wrong? Did I do something wrong in the process, or is there a separate issue going on?

Thanks!

Logically speaking your capacitor is likely the culprit if everything worked before, though, stick some fuel down the carb and see if it runs, you’ll be surprised how fast the rpm is with pulling it over, it’s typically 1000-1200 rpm via the pull rope. What capacitor did you use? What was the rating? I presume your location on your profile being “WA” isn’t Western Australia? In the unlikely event it is, I don’t mind lending a hand to help you get it running. I did mine without any trouble and I may have one of blue Phillips capacitors left.

 

[Sheabert]

Logically speaking your capacitor is likely the culprit if everything worked before, though, stick some fuel down the carb and see if it runs, you’ll be surprised how fast the rpm is with pulling it over, it’s typically 1000-1200 rpm via the pull rope. What capacitor did you use? What was the rating? I presume your location on your profile being “WA” isn’t Western Australia? In the unlikely event it is, I don’t mind lending a hand to help you get it running. I did mine without any trouble and I may have one of blue Phillips capacitors left.

Thanks for the reply. No, not in Australia. Washington State, US. Here's a pic of the Ebay capacitor I used. Am I on the right track?

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

The only thing I can’t tell is if it’s a pulse capacitor. Double check your connections and also just try what I said giving it a run and see if it starts.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Make sure the drill is running in reverse while checking for spark. A few hundred RPMs is all it should take to light up the plug if you're turning it over in the correct direction.

 

[Sheabert]

Update- It runs great! I was just underestimating how fast the pull cord would turn it over.
Thanks for all your help!

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Update- It runs great! I was just underestimating how fast the pull cord would turn it over.
Thanks for all your help!

Great! Generally electronic ignition requires higher rpm to make a spark, with points you can often hold the flywheel and twist it by hand past the magnet and you’ll get a spark.

On the times I have had a tach on my saws, I get about 1200 rpm max from a standard pull via a cord without decomp, It’s surprisingly high!

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Congratulations!

 

[camel2019]

Would this be a fix the the coil in the ts350/ts360 saws and I think later 08s thinking it’s the same style.

 

[av8or3]

I’m joining the ranks of Foggysail’s followers. This would be my first such repair. It’s my Dolmar123. Classic symptoms , runs hard for about 5-10 mins then quits and will not restart until its cooled down. I’m going to secure the capacitor with silicone in the air box. I’ll solder the white wire to the positive side and ground the other terminal to the engine case there. It will work. I just gotta wait on the capacitors to arrive. Thanks @foggysail !

 

[av8or3]

I used clear epoxy to fill the pot after the repair.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Nice job. Looks like a pretty clean Dolmar, too!

 

[av8or3]

Thanks

 

[av8or3]

These are the caps I bought. Are they polarized caps or non polarized? Does anybody know?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-PCS-Film...=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0I can’t tell from the pics if they are marked or not. (-+)

 

[av8or3]

These are the caps I bought. Are they polarized caps or non polarized? Does anybody know?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-PCS-Film...=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0I can’t tell from the pics if they are marked or not. (-+)

Got it! Post #53. They are NOT polarized. Thanks again @foggysail

 

[av8or3]

Here’s the final result. The capacitor is tucked in under the ledge there in the air box. One white wire comes from the ignition the other is grounded under the screw for the cyl cover. I used a dab of ultra copper to hold it in place. There is 1/8” clearance between the intake elbow and the capacitor. I had to remove the elbow to install it. Best of all, it works.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Pretty slick! And congrats for another successful Foggy Fix.

Now about the thin flocking on that air fiter..., LOL

 

[av8or3]

Now about the thin flocking on that air fiter..., LOL

That’s all I got.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Just a little razzin'. Craft felt and hot glue is always an option and is said to be a good (and economical) fix for both large and small areas. There's also Uni-Filter material. Pretty high end. Comes in various densities for different applications and can turn a nasty filter frame into a poor man's Max-Flo. Then there's always a piece of nylon stocking...

I've certainly seen much worse and you're obviously contientious about yours.