SUCCESS!!! Just repaired Stihl 045/056 Bosch electronic ignition!!!!!

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That’s actually a new NOS filter. The area between the three screws is solid plastic. It has fuzz everywhere it’s supposed to. The thin looking areas that border the fuzzy areas are actually solid plastic as well. It’s been doing a good job when the saw would run.
 
Just a little razzin'. Craft felt and hot glue is always an option and is said to be a good (and economical) fix for both large and small areas. There's also Uni-Filter material. Pretty high end. Comes in various densities for different applications and can turn a nasty filter frame into a poor man's Max-Flo. Then there's always a piece of nylon stocking...

I've certainly seen much worse and you're obviously contientious about yours.
I'm going to try updating a few filters with foam and outwear.
These old girls just need some love. Really like the three layer but need thinner stuff for the top handles.
 
My reply to the Moderator:

I joined to see if there was a solution to an ignition problem for my Stihl 56 chainsaw--- there was none. So I decided to pull apart my saw's ignition and analyze the electronic ignition circuit and found the failure.

I then replaced a defective component along with modifying its mechanical location. Sure enough, I FIXED MY SAW. I next posted "Success! I fixed my Stihl 56 ignition'' and provided an easy solution for ALL to repair similar failed Stihl ignitions WITH PICTURES FOR FREE!!!

My fix is still posted in the forums WITH OVER 900 REPLIES AND THANKS FROM USERS.

AND YOU CARELESSLY IGNORED MY IMPORTANT POST THAT SHOULD HAVE BEEN MADE A STICKY!!!!! Someone who viewed my FIX went forward and posted it on YOUTUBE. He did extend credit to me and I thank him for doing so.

And you are now BITCHING to me because I have contributed NOTHING??? REALLY???? GET REAL!!!! AND GET OFF YOUR @$$ AND HELP OTHER MEMBERS BY MAKING MY ORIGINAL POST A STICKY.

Joe Howarth---Foggysail
[email protected]
 
This thread has become legendary on its own (and will remain so for very good reason) without the cheesiness or necessity of being proclaimed a forum 'Sticky" -- (like they're some kind of merit badge). I'd venture to say most folks arrive here by a Google search for 'Stihl 045/056 Ignition Fix' anyway. Guess what's first on the list of those search results?

The above assertions and complaining only serve to diminish the thread's (and your own) well earned integrity..., and provide satisfaction to whomever got under your skin.

It will also now be viewed by anyone doing a Google search for the Foggysail fix. Not a very good look, Joe.
 
I'm new to forums, which page can I find the instructions? Thx
Just start at the beginning. They begin a page or two after the beginning. It works too. I have three saws that are running this way. Two Dolmars and a Stihl 056 Super.
I can also add that it’s not necessary to run the ground wire for the capacitor back to the module. You can ground it anywhere on the saw body and then there’s one less wire to squeeze thru the hole under the flywheel.
 
I just wanted to let everyone know that after acquiring the necessary capacitor quite awhile ago I finally performed the Foggysail Fix on my 056. Interestingly enough I pulled out my original owners manual where I had stashed a repair receipt from the early 1980's and found that I had my ignition warranty replaced all the way back then. The replacement ignition lasted up until just recently however so... Anyway I took my saw apart to do the repair. I tried to get away with keeping the original Kill Switch wire only to find out I couldn't start the saw so I cut it out and the saw ran wonderfully. I took it out to the woods yesterday to cut firewood and I rand the saw for nearly 6 hours cutting Douglas Fir between 2-3 feet in Diameter. The Saw performed equal to or better than new. Thanks so much for all the help.
Go Hard Chain Saw GIF by CATCHIN' DEERS
 
Hello,
first I d like to say that this thread is great thanks to Foggysail and others.
I have 056AVE with similar but not same problems.
It has great spark and runs nice for 5-10 minute, then it cuts off...typical spark loss. BUT every time I can start it back right away. Then it would run for a minute and die again. When checking for a spark, it is always there. Seems like a spark loss occurs only momentay for 2-3 seconds enought to shut off.
Is this problem also related to bad capacitor or maybe just rotten kill switch wire. Yes, it is completely rotten.

I did replace the kill switch wire, and waiting for a new spark wire. Will test it with new wires and if the problem still occurs will do the Foggysail fix.

This leads me to a question regarding Foggysail electric wiring.
It was said that new extra 2 wires are hard to install thru the grommet and under flywheel. One is connected to a bus under the potting and the other is connected to ground screw on a pulse transformer. Both wires go out to the new capacitor. Why wouldnt connect one capacitor lead to a ground housing. It is right next to new capacitor location - screw that holds the plastic fan housing. That way you eliminate one wire, that goes to pulse transformer screw (also ground?). Am I missing something?
 
Thanks, I am pretty sure what to do, but if you feel like it, it never hurts to have some more info and pics.
 
Changing spark plug and kill switch wire didnt solve the problem.
Foggysail operation is on the program.
 
Done, we have a spark.
I will soon test it in work conditions.

I was thinking...If switch kill wire is cut at the ignition board, we could connect the kill switch wire to "live" wire on the capacitor lead. We could then have only one wire and a spark wire going under the flywheel.
I think points ignition is wired that way. What do you think...Am I thinking correctly?
 
It works. Now we have only a spark wire and new capacitor wire going trhu the grommet under the flywheel. Cut kill switch wire at a ignition module. One capacitor lead wired to nearby ground, the other to "live" wire ("foggysail fix") and also to kill switch.
Dont forget to ground also a fuel tank/carburetour housing as it is isolated with AV, so you need a ground bridge wire (old version) or a ground sping under the bottom arc handle AV (newer versions).
 
SEM FIX... its taken me ages to read all 46 pages of this, everyone asks how to fix SEM units, well on this thread a lawnmower fixy guy said he put one in the oven at 150 degrees for an hour fixed his SEM unit. The coil on my 038 was sporadically failing years ago so i put it on top of my boiler for a week or two and it drove all of the moisture out, I think maybe I siliconed or varnished it or something to keep moisture out and the saw was still running like new after 40 years of service. No idea what page the fix was on, but its here somewhere. Well done foggysail... and your nail varnish looks silver not red in the UK.
 
WOW!!!! Just a quick HELLO GANG!!! Somewhat surprised that my ''fix it suggestion'' has survived 10 years! I still retain good/great health although my chain saw days seem to be mostly in the past.

Stay healthy..... nothing else matters and of course, be careful! OH.... Wifey hid her nail stuff.

Foggy
 

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