Suggestions for a sickly elm? Pics included!

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sac-climber

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Hey guys, I'm dealing with two Ulmus procera both have some structural issues one is more of concern that the other though. I'm going to focus on that one here. DBH is 23", height is about 50'. I know how I want to approach this but I'd like some input. I meet with the HO next Monday and I want to have a variety of options to present. I'd say that all the street trees in this particular neighborhood are around 40 years old. None are spectacular specimens, most are similar height and health, the majority are Plantanus occidentalis.

My plan is reduce tip weight, remove the three bunches of mistletoe and dead wood, brace trunks 1 and 2, and cobra cable trunk 1 and 3 together. Both trees have included bark, decay columns forming and root damage from a street widening project years ago. PHC may come in next spring with a slow release low N fert.

Am I missing anything or would you approach this entirely different? The owner would like to keep them.
 

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I would also suggest a root collar excavation with air spade if you can get one. Looks like fill around the base of the tree. Also, suggest establishing a mulch bed around the trees and get rid of the grass. As far as fert. goes, take a soil test first and see what is lacking before applying slow release N.
 
Jomoco, I'm not convinced that high tensile is gonna do much more. Look at the diameter it's going places at. I hate to put anymore holes in this thing either.
 
Not an arborist - but I'd be very concerned with that limb (tied red tape on it) that points towards the house.

That hollow in the fork has had water channeled into it for years, I reckon the whole trunk is most likely unsound and
that limb will separate and fall in the sort term.

It's surprising the tree was left with road works having been so close to it, no doubt quite a bit of root damage when that
was carried out.

The OP has personal onsite observations, without those and on the face of it I think the tree is a lost cause.
 
And yet you intend to brace/rod the split section where you know there's decay?

Not following your logic at all here SC.

jomoco
 
I'm not touching that seam, nothing to fix down there. I'm talking about bracing the two leaders on the left hand side. I'm not saying it's perfect but it's basically that or take this pos out. What's your rec other than removal or walk away jomoco? I know this is like polishing a turd. Just trying to offer options to a good customer.
 
I would also suggest a root collar excavation with air spade if you can get one. Looks like fill around the base of the tree. Also, suggest establishing a mulch bed around the trees and get rid of the grass. As far as fert. goes, take a soil test first and see what is lacking before applying slow release N.
Thanks zale. I think the yard is going to under go a renovation pretty soon. I'll be sure to make sure the contractor doesn't ADD fill as they love to do.
 
Well SC, provided you're removing the ribboned rt hand leader entirely?

I'd recommend a hub and spoke steel cabling system about 3/4's of the way up the remaining leaders myself, with 1/2 inch throughbolts.

Looks like the best solution to my eye from the pics anyway.

Regardless of which cabling system you choose, I strongly suggest you get the client to sign a cabling disclaimer that'll protect YOU if things don't hold together over time.

Best regards SC,

jomoco
 
Interesting, I would have thought these were municipal street trees, or does the property line go right to the curb?

To those who advocate removal, the objective was stated - retain the trees. This was not a question of whether the tree should be removed, rather what should be done in retaining the tree. To give a removal recommendation is just being lazy. There are many situations where we don't set the objective, rather develop recommendations to meet the objective. Use your ****ing brain and make suggestions on how to meet the objective. This is a learning exercise.

I've worked on many street trees that looked worse than this. The objectives were retention using Gilman's principles. Based on that, what I would do is significantly reduce the stem with the ribbon - 30% - probably the more horizontal limbs making that stem more vertical thus reducing some of bending moment on the junction. If this was a tree on a regular pruning cycle, I would work at removing that limb in 2-3 cycles.

I would thin the street side stem by about 20% and the central stem by about 15%.

Was the street widened after the tree was planted, or was the tree planted on the curb line?
 
To high for pole saw, do you tie off on that limb, use an Elev. Work Platform, what is the best (safest) practical
way to work on it. Weight on that limb IMO would be extremely dangerous btw.

The OP says " Both trees have included bark, decay columns forming and root damage from a street widening project years ago." .............:rolleyes:

The area pics indicate a heavily tree'd locale, one less tree that appears patently unsound and a danger to persons/property is hardly
the end of the world, especially when it would appear to be so easy to grow replacement trees in the area.

If it was removed and another tree planted further back from the road I really think that in 5 years time folks would be patting each other on the
back and reveling in the decision they made.
 
BC first thanks for your reply...... from what I can tell based on neighboring trees and severed roots on the tree not pictured I would have to say after planting. I'm with you on scheduled reduction of the flagged limb. That shouldn't be a problem with the client. There is so much going on with this tree I want to make sure I'm covering all my bases. I haven't established the clients tolerance for risk in this situation. That will come on Monday. The home will be a rental so there may be very little tolerance and this ends up being a removal. I'll know more next week.
 
I'm not a truck mechanic, but oil has been dripping for years, I reckon the whole engine is unsound and will explode in the sort term. Your truck looks like a removal.
A tree guy sees something as natural as decay and acts like Chicken Little with its head cut off, telling lies like ''patently unsound and a danger' just to make the crane payment. If other tradesmen called for the removal of assets they are there to maintain, they'd be laughed out of business.

You could spec a 3/16" steel cable on that lower leader. That require two 1/4" holes, not egregious wounding. Bolts would be egregious wounding, considering size and condition. Alternative is to reduce that leader a lot more. Taking it off entirely would increase the risk of the branches above, and the entire tree. Duh.

does the upper fork really need support?
 

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I'm not a truck mechanic, but oil has been dripping for years, I reckon the whole engine is unsound and will explode in the sort term. Your truck looks like a removal.
A tree guy sees something as natural as decay and acts like Chicken Little with its head cut off, telling lies like ''patently unsound and a danger' just to make the crane payment. If other tradesmen called for the removal of assets they are there to maintain, they'd be laughed out of business.

You could spec a 3/16" steel cable on that lower leader. That require two 1/4" holes, not egregious wounding. Bolts would be egregious wounding, considering size and condition. Alternative is to reduce that leader a lot more. Taking it off entirely would increase the risk of the branches above, and the entire tree. Duh.

does the upper fork really need support?


Your analogy is very poorly written, you argue against maintenance but on the other hand make suggestions on how to maintain the tree.

So the tree is sound and not dangerous......... :ices_rofl: .......... sounds like a tree guy out to make a buck by embarking on a long process of maintenance
when a simple removal and replant of a better sited tree would be the more intelligent approach.

Apology for voicing opinion gents, please carry on.

" this pos " ...... posted by the only person here who has seen the tree ?
 
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