SuperSplit rack return issues...

[bottlefed89]

I'll have to remember how to post pics on here, it's been a while...
Repairing the wear in the beam is pretty simple for the most part, just depends on how extensive you've let the damage get before addressing it. If it 's not too bad, you can leave the splitter mostly intact, just take out the rack and all of the moving parts outside of the main housing. I preheat the I-beam for better penetration, then fill in the groove with weld. Then break out the grinder and make it flat again!! I use a large 8" grinder with a flapper disc for the finish. I suppose there are better ways to do it, but that has suited me. If the wear has gone on too long, you'll have to cut the main housing off of the I-beam to be able to fill in the gap all the way back.

 

[angelo c]

I'll have to remember how to post pics on here, it's been a while...
Repairing the wear in the beam is pretty simple for the most part, just depends on how extensive you've let the damage get before addressing it. If it 's not too bad, you can leave the splitter mostly intact, just take out the rack and all of the moving parts outside of the main housing. I preheat the I-beam for better penetration, then fill in the groove with weld. Then break out the grinder and make it flat again!! I use a large 8" grinder with a flapper disc for the finish. I suppose there are better ways to do it, but that has suited me. If the wear has gone on too long, you'll have to cut the main housing off of the I-beam to be able to fill in the gap all the way back.

Follow your process now. Thank you immeasurably.
I have a friend that might have the skills for that . I can't weld two words together well.

 

[Sandhill Crane]

Bottlefed89. Thanks for your post. Yes, the SuperSplits are impressive. Your post supports that. The groove in the top of the beam however seems to make the point that the bearing is ineffective, and also seems to be made of a harder material than the beam it is riding on. Perhaps a softer sacrificial material to replace the bearing would save beam wear and be an easier maintenance solution. I too would like to learn more from you and how operate efficiently. I am up and running again with new bearings, and elevated the out feed end. Still cold, but dry, no snow, it has come and gone for a bit. Thanks again. Crane

 

[angelo c]

Bottlefed89. Thanks for your post. Yes, the SuperSplits are impressive. Your post supports that. The groove in the top of the beam however seems to make the point that the bearing is ineffective, and also seems to be made of a harder material than the beam it is riding on. Perhaps a softer sacrificial material to replace the bearing would save beam wear and be an easier maintenance solution. I too would like to learn more from you and how operate efficiently. I am up and running again with new bearings, and elevated the out feed end. Still cold, but dry, no snow, it has come and gone for a bit. Thanks again. Crane

Crane,
I have found that groove is a "way after the fact" issue of the bearing failure. I wasn't even aware mine was there until I called Paul asking for a "stronger spring" he then lead me towards finding out that the carrier bearings need looking after( and the groove wasn't supposed to be there- silly newbee me). at that point I pretty much replaced everything replaceable.

Glad your up and splitting again. good to have so many users here jibber jabbin with ya.

 

[bottlefed89]

Bottlefed89. Thanks for your post. Yes, the SuperSplits are impressive. Your post supports that. The groove in the top of the beam however seems to make the point that the bearing is ineffective, and also seems to be made of a harder material than the beam it is riding on. Perhaps a softer sacrificial material to replace the bearing would save beam wear and be an easier maintenance solution. I too would like to learn more from you and how operate efficiently. I am up and running again with new bearings, and elevated the out feed end. Still cold, but dry, no snow, it has come and gone for a bit. Thanks again. Crane

I don't think that means the bearing is ineffective , rather that it's just an item that needs to be monitored... If the groove is in the I-beam, it's not a design flaw - it's operator neglect. The groove doesn't begin to wear into the beam until the bearing is seized up, and not rolling. I generally order them a dozen at a time - they are definitely the most common item we have to replace. Though I agree with your thought that it would be better to wear the easily replaceable bearing rather than the I-beam, any type of bearing in that environment made out of a sacrificial material would be short lived... I really think the cleanliness (or lack there of) of the wood you're splitting is the main factor in how long that bearing lasts. We've been running a lot of processed wood lately; one of the log suppliers hauls all the logs out with a skid-steer - so they are never skidded and have very little dirt on them. we've ran 5-6 semi loads of logs in the last couple weeks, and we've re-split it all with one SS, without replacing the bearing, so 50ish cords. On the contrary, I cut 25-ish cords out of a pile that had been dozed last year, and we went through 2 bearings on that same splitter....

 

[skindaddy]

you guys should know if its too cold out wd40 freezes, dont believe me put it in your locks or padlocks seen it many times , need a product like triflow or dryslide

 

[Split Second Log Splitter]

The small cam follower bearing used on the rack return needs to be sealed for a happy kinetic and a happy user. The 3/4” diameter bearing used on most kinetics, corrodes with use and freezes. See below the inside of your unsealed ¾” cam follower bearing after use. When it freezes it slides down the beam instead of rolling which creates wear. The WD40 only helps free the rust so it will rotate again for awhile, hence the small hole in the bolt or spraying the sides of it since it is an unsealed bearing. If you split in cold weather this type of bearing will wear out extremely fast. On the Split Second Log Splitter the cam follower bearing is 1” diameter sealed with low temp grease that will not get sluggish until around -30°F. The housing that holds the bearing is designed to let the beam crud go thru and not get held up around the bearing. The Split Second also has a rack return spring bracket that allows the springs to be tightened depending on use. Please keep the top of your beam and rack clean.

 

[Sandhill Crane]

Thanks for the recent posts. Split Second Log Splitter is correct that the SuperSplit bearing is not a sealed bearing, nor are the four larger ones on the underside of the push plate sled.

 

[Sandhill Crane]

and we've re-split it all with one SS, without replacing the bearing, so 50ish cords.

Are you running a processor, then re-splitting with the SuperSplitter?

 

[sunfish]

I'm between 60-80 cords on my SS and have not needed to replace the cam follower bearing.

 

[bottlefed89]

Are you running a processor, then re-splitting with the SuperSplitter?

Yes, we do that some of the time... Maybe processed 150 cords of the 400 or so we've bundled so far this season...

 

[Split Second Log Splitter]

Just wanted to let you all know that our Log Lift is now available, and YES it does fit on the Super Split.

The Split Second Log Splitter's accessories are now available! You can call directly to order them today. 1-800-448-9282

www.splitsecondlogsplitter.com
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.755651051169356.1073741837.632676220133507&type=1

 

[sam-tip]

Finally figured out my rack return issues on my SS SE. I had the hoizontal bolt that pivots the rack and push block to tight. Changed springs rollers and many other parts. Only took two years to figure out. Guess it's better to walk away and come back with a fresh mind to solve the problem.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

Is it LDS1 or LPS1. LPS1 greaseless lubricant is $20.56 at granger website.

Didn't realize it was expensive. We used to have cases of the #1 and #2. I just sprayed it on anything.

 

[Harold Anderson]

With cold weather the rack return springs no longer do their job. Played with it for a couple hours last weekend and got it working. Now same problem, again. Seems there is too much friction at multiple points.
(1) The sled sides drag on the beam.
(2) The rack sides drag on the rack alignment carriage bolts.
(3) The small center rack return bearing hardly turns in cold temperatures. It was 25 degrees today.
(4) The rack engagement cam assembly drags on the top of the rack in the return mode. In the splitting mode the bearings work as they should.
I split 1/4 cord today and each and every split required manually returning the rack, even after several cleanings. My hope was it would loosen up/warm up/something.
Any similar problems? Any suggestions?
I have removed the rack (in a heated garage) and the carriage is returning 90% the length of travel and stopping. With the rack in place #2, 3, and 4 noted above kick in.

Check out my video on youtube under Harold Anderson super split

 

[Harold Anderson]

With cold weather the rack return springs no longer do their job. Played with it for a couple hours last weekend and got it working. Now same problem, again. Seems there is too much friction at multiple points.
(1) The sled sides drag on the beam.
(2) The rack sides drag on the rack alignment carriage bolts.
(3) The small center rack return bearing hardly turns in cold temperatures. It was 25 degrees today.
(4) The rack engagement cam assembly drags on the top of the rack in the return mode. In the splitting mode the bearings work as they should.
I split 1/4 cord today and each and every split required manually returning the rack, even after several cleanings. My hope was it would loosen up/warm up/something.
Any similar problems? Any suggestions?
I have removed the rack (in a heated garage) and the carriage is returning 90% the length of travel and stopping. With the rack in place #2, 3, and 4 noted above kick in.

Check out my video on youtube HaroldAnderson super split. May help your situation

 

[Harold Anderson]

With cold weather the rack return springs no longer do their job. Played with it for a couple hours last weekend and got it working. Now same problem, again. Seems there is too much friction at multiple points.
(1) The sled sides drag on the beam.
(2) The rack sides drag on the rack alignment carriage bolts.
(3) The small center rack return bearing hardly turns in cold temperatures. It was 25 degrees today.
(4) The rack engagement cam assembly drags on the top of the rack in the return mode. In the splitting mode the bearings work as they should.
I split 1/4 cord today and each and every split required manually returning the rack, even after several cleanings. My hope was it would loosen up/warm up/something.
Any similar problems? Any suggestions?
I have removed the rack (in a heated garage) and the carriage is returning 90% the length of travel and stopping. With the rack in place #2, 3, and 4 noted above kick in.

With cold weather the rack return springs no longer do their job. Played with it for a couple hours last weekend and got it working. Now same problem, again. Seems there is too much friction at multiple points.
(1) The sled sides drag on the beam.
(2) The rack sides drag on the rack alignment carriage bolts.
(3) The small center rack return bearing hardly turns in cold temperatures. It was 25 degrees today.
(4) The rack engagement cam assembly drags on the top of the rack in the return mode. In the splitting mode the bearings work as they should.
I split 1/4 cord today and each and every split required manually returning the rack, even after several cleanings. My hope was it would loosen up/warm up/something.
Any similar problems? Any suggestions?
I have removed the rack (in a heated garage) and the carriage is returning 90% the length of travel and stopping. With the rack in place #2, 3, and 4 noted above kick in.

Check out my videos on youtube on my modification. HaroldAnderson super split

 

[Harold Anderson]

How is the bearing that is on the bottom side of the ram that rides on the beam. I find mine will get gummed up. I usually apply ATF on the beam. After a few cycles it frees up and good to go. I just pour it on. I find the extra lube gets on the table and makes things slick. Nice to slide around the splits.

Your mileage may vary.

Check out my videos on super split modification on youtube. HaroldAnderson super split

 

[Harold Anderson]

Tore into the push sled a little more. Three of the four bearings on the bottom of the beams top flange were froze up. Called Paul up. Stuffs in the mail, including a new version of the top center bearing. This is a small bearing in a tight housing that collects crap quickly. The new bearing is larger and the housing more open. I also went to a supply house to cross reference the bearing as it was very nice out today and would have loved to finish some cut rounds off with the splitter. There the guy could not cross reference it and asked a co-worker what he thought. It seems it is not a 'bearing' but a 'cam follower'. Interesting, and I guess makes sense as a bearing is usually 'in' something. A friend stopped over and said his brother-in-law is a retired machinist and has a small shop. May have him take a look. Paul did say the sled tracking is adjusted by minutely tweeking the top center bearing mount. Hopefully a follow up tomorrow or the next day.
When I did call Paul it was 12:30. The phone rang twice, and he, Paul, answered the phone. I have called several places in the last two/three weeks about large hydraulic splitters, and emailed also. Either way you leave a message and it is minimum a day, in one case, a week and a half before hearing from them.

Go to youtube and search HaroldAnderson super split for what I did

 

[Harold Anderson]

Hi guys. I just joined this sight and I think I can help your situations of frozen cam followers or bearings on the underside of the rack. I built new rails that are counterbored to allow for a bolt and grease fitting to fit. I took grade 8 bolts drilled and tapped for a grease fitting and a cross hole to put grease in the center of the follower. You can see my idea on youtube. Search HaroldAnderson super split and you should find it. I also have replacement numbers for the bearings under the carriage. McGILL CYR-1 1/4-S or Koyo YCRS-20. The replacement number for the small bearing that rides on top of the I-beam is McGILL CYR-3/4-S or KOYO CYRS-12. Under the handle there are 2 more of the CYR-1 1/4-S followers that ride on top of the rack. I have taken those out and pushed grease in them and haven't had any issues. If you want more information contact me at [email protected]. Thanks.