Harold Anderson
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I have made new risers and machined grade 8 bolts for purchase. If you’re interested.
SuperSplit rack return issues...
- Thread starter Sandhill Crane
- Start date
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I recognize this is a very old thread , but did you ever resolve the problem of running your SS in the winter months?
What we’re some of the things that helped you overcome the problems you were having with the rack returning. I see you have stuck with the SS for many years so I assume that you have come up with a solution to cold weather splitting. Thanks for any input.
What we’re some of the things that helped you overcome the problems you were having with the rack returning. I see you have stuck with the SS for many years so I assume that you have come up with a solution to cold weather splitting. Thanks for any input.
I have stuck with SS. (My last post in this thread was 2014, wow.)
In part because I can't afford the investment in a processor, which would be a hakki pilke or Jappi.
I split wood well into January 2021. Not doing more was not related to SuperSplit, but to using pallets in the winter which is troublesome with snow build up on bottoms, freezing to the ground, and getting around with forklift.
SuperSplit: I'm using original model bearing on the push plate. Casey did give me sealed bearings I used for a couple years which also worked great. I lube with WD-40 before, during and after splitting.
In addition, the splitter is used in one spot with a conveyor and PackFix. The SS also has a 4-wheel mod, so the table end is slightly higher than the flywheel end on flat ground. Also where I split, the slightly elevated table end is maintained. Pretty sure this positioning is suggested in the owners manual.
The other thing about SS, seems to be, the more it is used the less issues with retracting. Initially this has to do with wearing the paint off. Continued use probably wears in the brass skid plate part of the push plate, and the side plated/beam.
The most common problem I initially had was top beam tracking, which caused side pressure rubbing the beam. Very minor taps, side adjustments, on the top bearing support arm solves this. Usually needed if the push plate is side torqued from the butt end of a round not being square cut and jamming the extended push plate. The tracking use to bug the crap out of me the first year or two. Tracking is not an issue these past years. The inside of side plates are worn/grooved slightly which is probably a helpful thing as well. Seven or eight years, just broke in.
I've replaced push plate bearings, bump stops once, top beam bearing, belts, and engagement bearings once. Don't replace engagement bearings if not needed. I did so as maintenance after several years, and it was a pain. Also replaced the rod guide for the engagement handle. Replaced the Subaru engine with a Honda. The Subaru float stuck and was leaking fuel. Shop turn around time was a week and a half. They had a Honda GX 200 on the shelf. I was splitting a couple hours later. Two seasons later I tipped the splitter over and got oil up in the topped of the Honda. Pulled the plug ten times at least and got it running, then swapped out for the Subaru, to clean up the Honda.
With winter/spring things are just wet so debris accumulates on the beam. Just need to clear it more often and keep splitting. I use a piece of lath from the spring end once in awhile as it piles up in the tunnel more when wet.
I run the belts looser than previously. I would get belt dust on the housing. I date the belts with a paint stick, and also oil change dated. The flywheels get grease bi weekly when splitting a lot.
I had a back log having not sold firewood in 2020, and sales dropped off last year. Total splitting last year was maybe ten cord.
I just went through the splitter annual clean up/maintenance last week but have not split yet. Beam is rusty, but everything seems good. Light treatment this week on scalp at dermatologist. No sun for me for several days.
If your having trouble check Harold Anderson's post #61.
Looks like a great idea to get a light grease in there.
In part because I can't afford the investment in a processor, which would be a hakki pilke or Jappi.
I split wood well into January 2021. Not doing more was not related to SuperSplit, but to using pallets in the winter which is troublesome with snow build up on bottoms, freezing to the ground, and getting around with forklift.
SuperSplit: I'm using original model bearing on the push plate. Casey did give me sealed bearings I used for a couple years which also worked great. I lube with WD-40 before, during and after splitting.
In addition, the splitter is used in one spot with a conveyor and PackFix. The SS also has a 4-wheel mod, so the table end is slightly higher than the flywheel end on flat ground. Also where I split, the slightly elevated table end is maintained. Pretty sure this positioning is suggested in the owners manual.
The other thing about SS, seems to be, the more it is used the less issues with retracting. Initially this has to do with wearing the paint off. Continued use probably wears in the brass skid plate part of the push plate, and the side plated/beam.
The most common problem I initially had was top beam tracking, which caused side pressure rubbing the beam. Very minor taps, side adjustments, on the top bearing support arm solves this. Usually needed if the push plate is side torqued from the butt end of a round not being square cut and jamming the extended push plate. The tracking use to bug the crap out of me the first year or two. Tracking is not an issue these past years. The inside of side plates are worn/grooved slightly which is probably a helpful thing as well. Seven or eight years, just broke in.
I've replaced push plate bearings, bump stops once, top beam bearing, belts, and engagement bearings once. Don't replace engagement bearings if not needed. I did so as maintenance after several years, and it was a pain. Also replaced the rod guide for the engagement handle. Replaced the Subaru engine with a Honda. The Subaru float stuck and was leaking fuel. Shop turn around time was a week and a half. They had a Honda GX 200 on the shelf. I was splitting a couple hours later. Two seasons later I tipped the splitter over and got oil up in the topped of the Honda. Pulled the plug ten times at least and got it running, then swapped out for the Subaru, to clean up the Honda.
With winter/spring things are just wet so debris accumulates on the beam. Just need to clear it more often and keep splitting. I use a piece of lath from the spring end once in awhile as it piles up in the tunnel more when wet.
I run the belts looser than previously. I would get belt dust on the housing. I date the belts with a paint stick, and also oil change dated. The flywheels get grease bi weekly when splitting a lot.
I had a back log having not sold firewood in 2020, and sales dropped off last year. Total splitting last year was maybe ten cord.
I just went through the splitter annual clean up/maintenance last week but have not split yet. Beam is rusty, but everything seems good. Light treatment this week on scalp at dermatologist. No sun for me for several days.
If your having trouble check Harold Anderson's post #61.
Looks like a great idea to get a light grease in there.
Thank you for the detailed reply to my question. I purchased a new SS HD and received it about a month ago. It’s working out great and I’m enjoying it tremendously. I have been careful about keeping it clean and lubricated. I enjoy working on firewood in the winter so that lead me to the question about winter use. Sounds like it will work out fine if I stay ahead on the maintenance. Thanks again for the detailed reply .
I did get replacement bearings and use to keep them on the shelf. For a period of time I would alternate a set, soaking some in oil. I no longer mess with that, but an extra set on hand would be wise in case it sits idle with moisture and rust seizes the interior of the needle bearings. Make sure you spray something in there and rotate it a bit, and it blows out both sides of the bearing on the top the beam. The other bearings I spray as best I can, and roll them a bit to make sure they're not seized. The top bearing mount was redesigned since 2014. I ordered the newer designed mount, which I think has a larger bearing. That may be why it hasn't given problems.
If you do have any issues, call SuperSplit. They have been great to work with.
I don't know how grease would work in the colder weather. Certainly would give better protection if the viscosity allows it to roll.
I left mine out this winter for a time and covered the engine/flywheel part. I have mouse chews on the engagement handle cover.
Edit. Consider the phenolic plastic mod for the table. Kiwi Bro first did it and posted here. I copied what he did. Fantastic for re-splitting.
If you do have any issues, call SuperSplit. They have been great to work with.
I don't know how grease would work in the colder weather. Certainly would give better protection if the viscosity allows it to roll.
I left mine out this winter for a time and covered the engine/flywheel part. I have mouse chews on the engagement handle cover.
Edit. Consider the phenolic plastic mod for the table. Kiwi Bro first did it and posted here. I copied what he did. Fantastic for re-splitting.
Thanks Sandhill, All very helpful information . I will order replacement bearings to keep on hand. I would estimate my usage at probably 20 to 25 cord a year. All the firewood comes off our property and is usually dead or dying. All part of a TSI that I have been working on. The SS has all ready made a nice difference in my efficiency and I definitely like the quality of the splits better, less waste as well. Thanks again for all the help.
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