Tach on the way, setting an old husky 44

[TopJimmy]

My new tach from Bailey's should arrive early next week. I have an old 44 that I will use to play with the tach. The dealer recently set the carb for me. He did it by ear. I will record his base setting befor I make any adjustments. What is the max rpm for a 44? Also I am confused about setting with or without the bar and chain. I have searched and think that most of the posts say to set it with the bar and chain. I downloaded an article about setting the carb and it described setting without the bar and chain. Which way is it, or are there different recognized max rpm for each condition on a particular saw. If so, if a max rpm is given, but it is not stated with or without the bar and chain, do you assume that it is with the bar and chain? Thanks,

Jim

 

[Freakingstang]

not to be a smart ass, but why would you set the max rpm without the bar and chain?

Always set it with the bar and chain on. There can be 3-5 hundred and maybe more rpm difference. You should also check the rpm when installing a larger sprocket, such as going from a 7T rim to 8T. Same thing with going from a long bar to a short bar.

-Steve

 

[THALL10326]

My new tach from Bailey's should arrive early next week. I have an old 44 that I will use to play with the tach. The dealer recently set the carb for me. He did it by ear. I will record his base setting befor I make any adjustments. What is the max rpm for a 44? Also I am confused about setting with or without the bar and chain. I have searched and think that most of the posts say to set it with the bar and chain. I downloaded an article about setting the carb and it described setting without the bar and chain. Which way is it, or are there different recognized max rpm for each condition on a particular saw. If so, if a max rpm is given, but it is not stated with or without the bar and chain, do you assume that it is with the bar and chain? Thanks,

Jim

I'm not for sure but I think the max rpm for a 044 is around 13,000. Set it with the bar and chain on and most important remember max rpm may not be the best rpm for the saw. Max rpm is more less a guide line to use, meaning not to go over the max rpm, its the limit. It doen't mean just because you set the saw to the max rpm that it is going to have the most power at that level. It may well cut better at 12,000 rpms. The max rpm is the limit, not the true test to how the saw will perform in the cut.....

 

[THALL10326]

oppppppppppppps

I see now your referring to a Husky 44, I was referring to a Stihl 044, sorry, my glasses need cleaning.....

 

[rbtree]

You right Thall, but the saw in question was a Husky 44.....I have one, its a nice little saw with an opened muffler, but sees little use with my stable of modded newer model 2.5-3 cube saws.

http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...f83fc7f9a47cc6c788256b520015ac96?OpenDocument

 

[rbtree]

Me and my one finger typing...and you with the clean, sapless glasses....

 

[THALL10326]

You right Thall, but the saw in question was a Husky 44.....I have one, its a nice little saw with an opened muffler, but sees little use with my stable of modded newer model 2.5-3 cube saws.

http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...f83fc7f9a47cc6c788256b520015ac96?OpenDocument

Thanks Rb, I spotted that after I posted, I tell ya this getting old is hard on the eyes,lol

 

[TopJimmy]

Steve,

Thanks for the info. I do not know why someone would set the carb without a bar and chain, but I found a link to Madsen's shop and supply's page on saw tuning. They list several saws max rpm and state that the settings are without the bar and chain.

I never considered that the carb would need to be readjusted after changing bar length and sprocket size.

My hope is to learn to tune by ear, but I wanted to start with the tach to hopefully keep from melting anything down.

Plus I love a good excuse to buy any new tool! I have a few peices of 4 stroke equipment that really should have the running rpm set, so even if I learn to tune by ear, I have use for a small tach.

Thanks again,

Jim

 

[THALL10326]

Me and my one finger typing...and you with the clean, sapless glasses....

hahaha, I saw that,lol

 

[THALL10326]

Steve,

Thanks for the info. I do not know why someone would set the carb without a bar and chain, but I found a link to Madsen's shop and supply's page on saw tuning. They list several saws max rpm and state that the settings are without the bar and chain.

I never considered that the carb would need to be readjusted after changing bar length and sprocket size.

My hope is to learn to tune by ear, but I wanted to start with the tach to hopefully keep from melting anything down.

Plus I love a good excuse to buy any new tool! I have a few peices of 4 stroke equipment that really should have the running rpm set, so even if I learn to tune by ear, I have use for a small tach.

Thanks again,

Jim

Ha haaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa did you say tools, now we know where your coming from. Can't have enough. You will enjoy the tach and it will help you alot in setting your saws. I have had one for years but hardly use it anymore. I can't see all that well as you just saw but my ole ear can tell when the saw is putting out that top rpm just right. Takes practice and that tach will help you get to the point where you will be able to listen and tell whether the saw is too lean or too rich............