Talk me out of a CS-400

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tbzep

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I'm tired of fighting with my inherited Husky 235e. Sick and tired.

I started reading this site and gravitated toward the CS-352, then the CS-400, 16" 3/8 pitch. I then read about the CS-490 but the one's I've looked at have 18" or 20" bars with .325 pitch. Local cost goes up $50 for each. The 352 is the numbers equivalent of the Husky, but it can't be as crappy a saw. The 490 may be more saw than I want. I believe I'd rather have the 16" bar, so that eliminates the 490 unless I mail order. It's also an extra $100 over the 352.

For background, I have a small farm of about 50 acres with a few head of cattle. It will be used mostly to clear storm damage that seems to be a weekly occurrence these days, cut the occasional tree, trim a few limbs, saw a few corner posts from red cedar, and assist neighbors on the occasion. It won't be run every week. I'd like something that's easy to work on.

Local options are Husky at the local TSC, Echo from several places so the prices are somewhat competitive with mail order, Stihl at an overpriced dealer that doesn't move much product, and Poulan. The other obvious source would be mail order.

I've lurked here for a while, finally signed up today to ask the hard questions. ;)
 
I would think you would want a bit more than the 352 even though it’s probably a very good saw. I own a 450 but I would guess that the 400 and 490 are every bit as good as my 450 has been.
I would go look at them and if you like the 490 the dealer would probably be willing to exchange the 18” bar for a 16” and maybe even credit you for the price difference. Either the 400 or 490 will be very reliable and durable. I’ve had my 450 for many years and it has never failed to start and run perfectly and it’s very comfortable to use.
 
I'm tired of fighting with my inherited Husky 235e. Sick and tired.

I started reading this site and gravitated toward the CS-352, then the CS-400, 16" 3/8 pitch. I then read about the CS-490 but the one's I've looked at have 18" or 20" bars with .325 pitch. Local cost goes up $50 for each. The 352 is the numbers equivalent of the Husky, but it can't be as crappy a saw. The 490 may be more saw than I want. I believe I'd rather have the 16" bar, so that eliminates the 490 unless I mail order. It's also an extra $100 over the 352.
. ;)

It sounds like you might be happy with the power and bar length of the 235e. If that's the case,. the CS-352 sounds like the answer.

I'd rather have a 45cc saw with that 16" bar...but, that's just me. If 35cc works for you...

Roy
 
Can you be more specific about your fight with the Husqvarna 235e? What's the problem with it? Does it need a simple carb adjustment? I just serviced a 435e, and that was the only problem that it had.
It will run for about 10-15 minutes and then I can't start it again until it cools down. I've replaced lines, bulbs, filters, and gaskets several times over the years and again a few weeks ago along with the vent plug and duck bill check valve. Muffler isn't gunked up. I've done a spark check to make sure the coil isn't cutting out when it gets hot. I've never fiddled with the idle screw. It never ran all that well from day one.
 
cs400 has a design flaw that my dealer wrote a letter to echo agent, they shrugged him off and came back about 10 years later to ask his opinion on a fix for it lol. Anyway he did find a solution, i remember vaguely the bottom part clamshell motor bolts that hold it on the chassis are always backing out and it can wallow out or ruin the threads and render it useless. If the bolts back out even abit you'll have ignition issues right away and maybe even more i cant remember. The bolt holes has some bush i think that will wear out the plastics and ruining the case, he adds few washers or shims to hold it back. Otherwise the motor will be jumping in the chassis, and that fix is for minor wear. If theres too much wear than its junk

Otherwise they're pretty good saws lol

Sent from my INE-LX2r using Tapatalk
 
It will run for about 10-15 minutes and then I can't start it again until it cools down. I've replaced lines, bulbs, filters, and gaskets several times over the years and again a few weeks ago along with the vent plug and duck bill check valve. Muffler isn't gunked up. I've done a spark check to make sure the coil isn't cutting out when it gets hot. I've never fiddled with the idle screw. It never ran all that well from day one.
Before you give up on this saw, I suggest spending $13 on a new carb and install it.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/CARBURETOR...360209?hash=item3ac651e9d1:g:5NEAAOSwnNBXa9HXGood luck.
 
I have the slightly smaller Echo CS370. It’s a pretty good little saw. Besides 8”-10” white pines, I’ve cut a few 14” black locust and a 20” cherry tree. It hasn’t given me any issues with starting, and is a great saw for limbing/trimming and cutting up fuel for fire pits. B7B34DE7-8871-48E8-BD23-F0CC29FE751A.jpeg

L8R,
Matt
 
For what you need, a CS-400 is fine. I Love Mine it is a go to Saw.
It will do little and big wood per say.
Its light and nimble and balances out just right. Starts super easy and never had a problem with it.
 

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cs400 has a design flaw that my dealer wrote a letter to echo agent, they shrugged him off and came back about 10 years later to ask his opinion on a fix for it lol.
Just the fact this saw has been in production all these years without major problems says a lot. Also the all metal crank case is a plus. It's not like the clamshell design of other saws.
 
I've ordered the chinese knockoff carb. If that doesn't fix the 235, I'm pretty sure I'm going for the cs-400...or maybe the 490. Arrrrrgh! o_O
 
Just the fact this saw has been in production all these years without major problems says a lot. Also the all metal crank case is a plus. It's not like the clamshell design of other saws.
Huh? Since when cs400 became metal crank case design? They always have been clamshell, alongside with cs4000 and the rest of the saws in the 40cc platform. They get thrashed before the problem i mentioned earlier arise

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Get a 490. Do the stupidly simple muffler mod, then convert it to 3/8LP and run a 16" bar. Rip off the carb limiters and retune it properly. You will have an absolute light saber.
  • Replace the 0.325 rim with a 3/8 rim.
  • Put on a 56 drive link bar.
  • Run a 57 drive link chain. (The 3/8 drive rim will have 7 drive points. 3/8LP usually runs on a 6 point spur, so you will need the extra drive link in the chain to make up the difference.)
All of the above are "off the shelf" parts, so you won't need to custom order chains.
 
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