Tanaka top handle

[Seedling345]

Ive asked alot of climbers about this and no one knows well i ordered one from cpo hitachi outlet was 255.01 with overnight shipping. 14 inch bar 32.2 cc 1.6 ghp. Not gonna lie it rips pretty good came with a oregon chain and bar this is my first top handle but ive used 201ts honestly i find it pointless to spend 400 extra for.5 more ghp only time will tell but it does have a 2 year commercial warranty so ill let you guys know.

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[ssm1699]

I have been looking at these for my father-in-law. He wants an inexpensive small saw for trimming trees around his fields. So far, this is looking like the best option for what he wants. I will be following this thread to see what everyone thinks of them.

 

[Seedling345]

It kept going good full bar in a naple log i had but it definitely a saw you have to let work and not force but ide say it could easily top a 10 to 12 inch trunk

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[Seedling345]

Maple****

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[TimberWolf530]

I have been looking at these for my father-in-law. He wants an inexpensive small saw for trimming trees around his fields. So far, this is looking like the best option for what he wants. I will be following this thread to see what everyone thinks of them.

I have the Hitachi version, and I have no complaints about the way it runs. I bought it at Menards when they were clearing them out for $125. I didn't need it, but it was kind of a deal that I could not pass up. For awhile it was my main limbing saw. My input on using this for a general use saw, however, is I wouldn't. A top handle saw is great for use in areas with limited space, or climbing, but for general use, you have much better control and less wrist fatigue with a rear handle saw . That's just my $.02. Others may disagree, but it's at least something to think about.

 

[Seedling345]

I was looking at the gitachi ones same price but 40 more to ship the hitachi.

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[ssm1699]

The trimming is in the air. That is why we are looking at small, lightweight, top handle saws. He doesn't want to spend the money for a pole saw and the only options for a rear handle are like the MS170. He is considering the Tanaka for a couple of reasons, even though it is a little more expensive than the MS170. The biggest reason he is seriously considering it is because of the 7 year warranty that it comes with.

 

[Seedling345]

Im pretty impressesed with it ill upload a vid of it cutting here shortly

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[Seedling345]

Not the most impressive saw but for what it is it is nice

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[Seedling345]

Thats an oak log i pulled out of the pit lol

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[Ryan'smilling]

I've got a Tanaka string trimmer. It's a great piece of equipment. Mine's made in Japan, but the new ones are Chinese. Still supposed to be very good. Tanaka has a good reputation in the maple syrup industry. They were the most popular two stroke tapping drill for many many years.

 

[7sleeper]

I also have the Hitachi version and am VERY happy with mine!. I have only had it now for a few months so no long term experience. If it works half as good as my other Hitachi/Tanaka equipement (4 Trimmers & 3 saws) I won't be disappointed.

And the typical complaint about produced in china are totally worthless, because about all companies produce there.

7

 

[Seedling345]

Well its had about 6 tanks through it still kickin i decided to muff mod and retune the carb when i get a chance ill upload a vid of the difference kinda pointless with my chain being shot though but im kinda new to the tuning game if i upload a video can you guys tell me if it sounds right. To me it seems fine. But this is only the second saw ive tinkered with n my 241 is mtronic so no tuning there

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[blsnelling]

How is balance and handle/control ergonomics?

 

[Seedling345]

It stays straight with one finger at the trigger ,so ide say its pretty well balanced maybe a tad nose heavy not very noticable. But it does feel good in the hand. I dont know what its called but if you rev it holding it out side ways or at an angle it wants to go straight maybe some sort of gyroscope type deal but all in all i like it. all there is now is to see how it holds up to workin. Im not gonna lie it seems pretty cheaply made but cant really complain with the warranty so we will see. I was suprised to see dawgs on it though the factory pic does not show them but i thought they put them on upside down but when i tryed to flip it was a hair off so its just poor design on the dawgs (the bottom spike is round almost)

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[Seedling345]

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[heyduke]

Not the most impressive saw but for what it is it is nice

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it seems to hold its rpm in the cut, like it has a decent torque band. it looks to me like a good climbing saw. i'd like to see it go head to head with a 200 or 201. you might be surprised. it needs a 12" bar, lighter and better balanced and more agile in tight quarters.

 

[IyaMan]

it looks to me like a good climbing saw.

I've had the exact same saw (but the Hitachi version -I'm in Japan) for several years. I indeed use it for a climbing saw and for when hiking up the mountain. Its light, cuts fine for what I got around me (mostly cedar and cyprus) and balances well in the hand which is good in the tree. Usually cold starts in 3 or 4 pulls. Very easy to chuck in my pack when going out deep. I also buck any stuff I got that's less than 15" (usually softwood). And I have to say that I have not been kind to this saw and it has taken a severe beating, but it is still running like a champ! The engine just keeps going no matter how much damage the saw has gotten.

And the list of evil I put the saw threw is almost impressive. Dings, drops, left in the rain. For a while the chain oil line was clogged, which made it pretty hot and caused me to overheat it more than once, which eventually melted the plastic around the clutch so much that it has rendered the auto-brake useless, but I just ripped out the lock-spring and kept on cutting. In one of the over-heatings during a rip cut the internal dynamo screws came loose, which caused it to get slammed by the fan, making all the metal layer in it completely bent to heck, but I just pintched them as flat as I could with some vice-grips, screwed it back in, and it started right up! I thought it was a goner with all the oil pump trouble, but I finally took it all apart, cleaned it the best I could, and now it spits oil great. I also broke the throttle linkage line in the handle but could rig up a new one with a bit of wire.

Sometimes though, I've noticed it gets kinda hot when I work it hard (it also has two broken fan fins), and this is with a working oil pump. So it if this happens it continues with spontaneous combustion (detonation) even with it switched off for 20 seconds or so. But I've never had any piston or bearing problems. I liked it so much I went out and got a Hitachi brush cutter (like a weed wacker) and that thing runs just as excellent. I must say, for the price, Hitachi (Tanaka and Echo are sub-brands) makes some durable stuff. Enjoy!

 

[Seedling345]

I've had the exact same saw (but the Hitachi version -I'm in Japan) for several years. I indeed use it for a climbing saw and for when hiking up the mountain. Its light, cuts fine for what I got around me (mostly cedar and cyprus) and balances well in the hand which is good in the tree. Usually cold starts in 3 or 4 pulls. Very easy to chuck in my pack when going out deep. I also buck any stuff I got that's less than 15" (usually softwood). And I have to say that I have not been kind to this saw and it has taken a severe beating, but it is still running like a champ! The engine just keeps going no matter how much damage the saw has gotten.

And the list of evil I put the saw threw is almost impressive. Dings, drops, left in the rain. For a while the chain oil line was clogged, which made it pretty hot and caused me to overheat it more than once, which eventually melted the plastic around the clutch so much that it has rendered the auto-brake useless, but I just ripped out the lock-spring and kept on cutting. In one of the over-heatings during a rip cut the internal dynamo screws came loose, which caused it to get slammed by the fan, making all the metal layer in it completely bent to heck, but I just pintched them as flat as I could with some vice-grips, screwed it back in, and it started right up! I thought it was a goner with all the oil pump trouble, but I finally took it all apart, cleaned it the best I could, and now it spits oil great. I also broke the throttle linkage line in the handle but could rig up a new one with a bit of wire.

Sometimes though, I've noticed it gets kinda hot when I work it hard (it also has two broken fan fins), and this is with a working oil pump. So it if this happens it continues with spontaneous combustion (detonation) even with it switched off for 20 seconds or so. But I've never had any piston or bearing problems. I liked it so much I went out and got a Hitachi brush cutter (like a weed wacker) and that thing runs just as excellent. I must say, for the price, Hitachi (Tanaka and Echo are sub-brands) makes some durable stuff. Enjoy!

Ive noticed my runs a little hot when working it hard also must be a hitachi thing lol and as for the 12 inch bar i was already thinking that i have a 12 inch stihl bar and chain im gonna throw on n check out

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[Seedling345]

it seems to hold its rpm in the cut, like it has a decent torque band. it looks to me like a good climbing saw. i'd like to see it go head to head with a 200 or 201. you might be surprised. it needs a 12" bar, lighter and better balanced and more agile in tight quarters.

That was before the muff mod also i modded it last night and retuned i dont want to do a video though cause i smoked my chain sunday on a hidden nail and its naturally gonna cut a little faster with a 12 so i want to get another 14 before i post post mod results

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