Top Handle climbing saw suggestions

[Gumneck]

It would be the 360T, no quarter compared to a Stihl 200 with a magnesium frame though of course.
This is a 360T with a rear handle for convenience, 14" bar buried in birch wood.


Now, please show me what you can do with the 201TC-M.

That's an angry bee in that saw...Nice!

 

[Sierra_rider]

I highly recommend the 2511t. I also have a 201tcm and used to have a 192t. The 2511 is my go to, unless I'm doing a big enough removal to warrant the 201. They are kinda a dog in stock form, but mine really woke up after gutting the muffler and yanking the fuel limiters.
I'm running the 12" with non-safety 3/8 picco on mine. My intent when I bought it was to do a 1/4 pitch conversion, but I'm not sure that it really needs it. I run a 16" bar on the 201, the longer bar helps me go farther before I have to switch to one of rear-handle saws.

 

[imalogger]

I’ve got a 360T, bought it new about 10 years ago. It doesn’t really owe me anything by now, I guess I probably owe it a carburetor, the start and idle can be a bit finicky the last few jobs I used it on. Some years ago I borrowed a 200t for a job, while it was nice I don’t think it was worth twice the money. Last year I bought a makita 36v top handle, I much prefer it over the echo and I don’t think the echo will get used much anymore. One job I did with the echo the recoil rope pulled out and jammed leaving the cord dangling, but the saw was running so I wrapped the cord around the handle and didn’t shut it off for the next 4 hrs, just gassed and oiled it while it was running and real often too so I made sure it didn’t run out. I had to rewind the spring later when I had time, that job is almost enough to make a grown man cry.

 

[billyboy]

+1 on the echo 360. Muff mod and tune is an angry little beast. Homey XL is pretty good too, oil, gas lines, filters , carb clean, maintenance on it but sometimes it just doesn’t want to start after it’s been used a bit. But then I’m not a pro user either. Got my 360 for a $100. I think the newer 355 is around $350 and it is a plastic clam shell.

 

[Cliff R]

I've owned both the CS-360T and currently have a CS-355T. The CS-355T is the clear winner between those two saws hands down....IMHO

The 360T was OK, but I did NOT like the tiny bar nuts and the pesky rev-limiting coil that wasn't set high enough.

Mine also had a CAT style muffler than had to be cut apart then MIG welded back together to get it to breath. Once that was opened up it wanted to be a "runner" but INSTANTLY goes on the rev-limiter about 1000 rpm's before it should have. I liked the saw but never found myself using it all that much so I sold it and bought a CS-355T to replace it. It also gave me troubles twice where the "grommet" comes thru the plastic partition to connect the fuel line to the carb. Not a big deal there but a little difficult to replace all those parts which I had to do twice in the 10 years or so that I owned it.

The 355T is just better everyplace, ease of starting, smoother and the power curve isn't nearly as "peaky". The exhaust isn't all plugged up and it doesn't appear to have a rev-limiting or timing-retard coil that I can tell. It has plenty of "grunt" for bigger material and pulls a 14" bar really well and not too bad with a 16" bar........Cliff

 

[yamess191]

Hard to beat a 020/200 or a 201. Especially if you leave it stock. That’s all I use at work for in the tree on removals. If I am pruning smaller branches I take the husky batterie saw or the stihl 150 up.

 

[telecasterfool]

I don't have any experience with Stihl or husky top handle saws, you can get a trustworthy opinion from these other helpful folks. I will comment on the Echo offerings. I own and climb with three Echo top handles: cs-360T, & cs-355T with 14", .050 3/8 lopro, and cs-271T with 12", .043 3/8 lopro. In my opinion top handles are kind of divided when deciding what to climb with. If I'm just pruning, and the branches will be under 8-10", I will definitely take the 271t. It is very small and light. If the job is removal, or large limb removal, I'm more likely to take the 355t for the added power on the big stuff. Most of this is personal preference. I think some guys want to have plenty of power all the time, and they are willing to put up with the added weight. Some guys want minimal weight and are willing to cut a little slower on the big pieces. You have to decide where you land.
I will add that the Echo saws I've mentioned are very predictable and reliable tools. The most important thing for me in the tree is easy starting, and the echoes check that box. They are also cheaper than the other brands, and good ones can be obtained used. Usually minimal maintenance and tuning is all that's needed.

Finally, please be very careful with your tree climbing work. I don't know, but it sounds like you have not done much or any so far. That's fine, everyone starts from zero. Since you are not climbing for money, take all the time necessary to double check your systems, ropes, and gear before cutting. Cut small pieces. Think long and hard about where the cut piece will go after it is free, and where you will be. Please consider setting up a second lifeline for your first climbs and have someone else around. Good luck and be safe!

 

[Piotr Pakuła]

is there an upper handle that does not spit out barium oil at idle speed?

 

[Piotr Pakuła]

I have a partner 385 14 "I think it was the same as green poulan, although I was on a tree with huska 136 13" and it was not bad at all

 

[Piotr Pakuła]

I also have a saber 33 and 35 14 "but they are weaker

 

[James Sawyer]

For many years as I worked as a timber feller, I considered any saw under 80cc's as little. I logged with a 480 Husky for a few years, but reached for my 2100 and 281s and then 288s several times a day.
Since I've been out of the woods and up in the trees as an arborist, I've run several top handles. Stihl 200Ts, 020Ts, Husky 335XPs and 338XPs, Husky 540Ts, MS 192, Echo CS271T and
cs2511Ts. With all my experience and a little snobbery about the need for saw horsepower, the very first saw I would have the groundie tie to my climbing line would be a hopped up CS2511T. That said, the Echo would have a gutted muffler, 12" or even 14" bar with Bailey's Carlton full chisel 3/8ths LP chain, rakers lowered slightly, appropriately tuned with defeated carb screw limiters.
Do your best to find and handle a 2511. It will feel not much heavier and just as maneuverable as a 16" Silky Sugoi. For the rare cut you need to make in diameter beyond the bar length, just use it. or pull up a slightly bigger "baby saw". We'll pull up an MS250 or a 550XP when we need more bar length.

Yes my saws are on the small end of falling saws. But with the Hot saws and the Processors now days there are lot less fallers on the ground. Shovel logging and cars have changed a lot for today loggers. Biggest bar I run is 36" typical for me these days 25, 28 and 32. The norm of 42" and 48" inch bars ... I'm not sure if that's still typical any more. Its been long time since I've been around that. The timber in the PNW is not what it once was, I can't remember when the last time I saw a 3 or 5 log load. I with you on the carb limiter, I changed the carb on my MS361 before those old carb aren't available, which is my go too saw most of the time. My 461 is my favorite over 460. Thanks for advice.

 

[chipper1]

Only one current model saw to consider really- Stihl 201TC-M.
If you are going to climb a lot, cut a range of limbs and tops- anything else is not in the same league.
Of course a nice freshly built 200T would be nicer- but harder to find and prices are up there.

The 540 is a beast when it comes to power, and they handle better to me.
I think a question that hasn't been asked is does the OP do his own repairs, stihl parts aren't easily had if he has to get them shipped to him and since his dealers don't have any top handles in stock I'm sure he would have to order them and then wait. Not that that isn't common these days, but it's nice being able to order the other brands and have them shipped to your door.
I have the 200t and 2511t also 200/201cm/ and a 193 rear handle, they all have their places.
If I was the OP I'd choose the cs355 as he said he's not into the electronic carbs, and the cost is in his budget. A 355 will do anything he needs to do at the current time in stock form and if need a muffler mod will help boost the power a bit down the road.

 

[chipper1]

is there an upper handle that does not spit out barium oil at idle speed?

I'm not aware of any newer saw doing that.

 

[501Maico]

I use the Echo 2511T and I'm extremely happy with it, although I have never used other top handles to compare. I switched to the 1/4" pitch which cuts very fast and smooth before trying the stock the 3/8" LP. That chain and bar are direct replacements for some of my other saws so no loss there. The only minor issue that I have with the 2511 is that it's so light that I have problems pulling the cord without the saw following and sometimes need to brace it against a trunk or limb to start it. I think that problem will work itself out eventually.

 

[rabbit box]

Echo 2511T. Use Oregon 91vxl045 chain. When you get to the place to use the chainsaw to cut the limb, use a lanyard around the tree to hold you in place. Learn to use a prussik and carabiner so the saw will not pull into the direction of the cut and chainsaw. Top handle saws are manufactured for climbers. Get the rear handle version 2511P. If you bend over to cut with a top handle while on the ground you will find yourself over the blade and the saw will pull you towards the chain. Be careful.

 

[wisconsintreeguy]

Im curious about the new echo battery saw. 2500t I think. Not super cheap at 500 but a lot cheaper than husky battery saw.

 

[Ketchup]

For professional, regular use:
Echo 2511t
Echo 2500t battery saw?
Stihl 151t
Husqvarna T540xp
Husqvarna T540xpi battery saw
Stihl 200t/201t(c-m)
Echo 355t
For occasional users:
Stihl 194/193/192
Echo 271t
Jonsered/Redmax 30cc saws
Makita Battery top handle
Stihl 160 battery top handle


Don’t bother with the rest and stay away from Asian clone top handles.

I use the 2511t 10 times more than any other top handle but for the OP, 355t will deliver more power at a lower price.

 

[TOTALCHAOS69]

View attachment 963594
I've got an older model G300T that seems to be indestructible and cuts as fast as the saw in the posted video. The older saw is 28.5 cc and this is 38 I believe with 2.1 hp. $369 for this saw from RedMax so it should be cheaper elsewhere. A little over 8 lbs with bar and chain which is agin comparable to my older top handle RedMax and with a 14" bar I rarely use my bigger saw. There are alternatives to Stihl and this used to be made by Husqvarna, maybe still is.

I was gonna suggest looking for a used RedMax! I got a GZ3500T for $50 a couple years ago. Piston and cylinder still had crosshatching!

Maybe a pole saw would be more practical? That would eliminate the climbing aspect at least.

 

[Brettl]

I worked for a tree company. Our arborist prefers the Stihl 192 over the 201. He likes its lighter weight and it has plenty of power.

 

[arborist]

The problem with the old husky 335 is, they wouldn't stay in tune. They were great when running and when you could keep them running and not losing end caps. I would call them a failure overall.
The 334/338xpt were husky's best arborist saws. The had the same, nice ergonomics of the 335 but they got it right. They remained in tune and had good power for their size. At least, the 338 did or a 334 with the 338's top end, then it was the same saw.

The problem with the 540T is, they copied the little brick style of the stihl top handle and now those of us who liked the older husky ergonomics no longer have the option. It's just not offered. It runs nice and is reliable, feels like even more power than the older model but no more power than a 338t was required for me, because as soon as I'm into anything 8"+ I'm calling up a 50cc saw to get the job done. Being a big guy, I've no problem with using a 50cc up a tree. Once I'm into the 50cc, that means the top is out and I'm going down. It doesn't take me long from there anyway, especially with the 50cc's and then 70cc when needed, if it's tight and I still need to lower some trunk.

I got looking and the problem I see are two fold. The handle is moved right up in the center. This is preferred no doubt for those with lower forearm strength and those who like to one hand their cuts. I loath one handing and try to avoid it at all costs, even after 20 plus years of climbing. Sometimes you do what you have to do, as time is money but I hate it every time I do it anyway. I know it's stupid.

The second issue is the placement of where the handle comes out, far too close to your other hand, at least if you have big hands. So you can't place your left hand where you could before (the same place you place your left hand on a normal ground saw) there's just no room. So you're forced to place your left hand on the side while cutting and it makes the saw feel like your using a 'little persons' saw you can't properly hold onto like you could the old 338 style. To compound the issue, the bar comes forward, towards you, rather than away from you, which removes even more room and forces you to twist your wrist awkwardly. Clearly it was not deigned for those holding a saw properly and safely with two hands. It just wasn't. Grab one and simulate cutting it with next time you see it on a self. You'll see. They built it to aid one hand cutters. No sugar coating it. It's what they did.

Basically, there's no longer a natural way to hold a 540T safely with two hands. All you can do, or all I can do, is use my left hand sideways on the handle, kinda as if I'm holding a kids toy while cutting. I just don't like it. They removed the joy of cutting with their top handle and catered it to work for those who use top handle unsafe is what they did; one handers.

I've had it for a few years now and still don't like cutting with it. I think what I might do is, take it to a machine shop and see if they can cut and re-weld a handle on for me, up closer to the chain brake, so I can fit a paw on it where it belongs to saftey cut with a saw, cut out and re-modify the chain brake left most corner to accommodate the needed room and have the bar come down and slightly forward, not backwards like the old 338xpt style.
There's nothing I can do with the far forward handle and throttle, but I think with at least moving the bar up and down away from me, along the side of the body will make using the saw a million times more enjoyable. If I have to use a funnel to fill the bar oil, so be it. 1 minute full time of oil will be a small price to pay for some comfort.

Husky should have kept the old style with the updated engine, so we had a choice of saftey. Not just forced us all to use a saw clearly designed for one handing. It's not just Husky either. (the piss poor design started with Stihl. I hated them back then and I hate them now.) Look at all the new designed arborist saws. All unsafely designed. They're all designed to entice one hand use. It sucks. There's no excuse for it either and they all should be ashamed for it also.

Yes, I know I'm in a very, tiny minority with arborist saw ergonomics. Hence modern arborist saw design lol.

/end rant.



....
You know after ranting, this makes me wonder if I'm doing it all wrong now. Maybe I shouldn't have even bothered with the new 540T at all and instead should think about just going with a 35-40cc ground saw for my arborist saw, if they're going to stop offering options for us bigger guys and guys who prefer saftey first. I'd like to ensure when I retire, I do so with two arms and a couple legs lol. I'm probably behind like minded people and this is what others did a for a couple years now, I dunno. I'll see what a machine shop has to say first about modifying the handle for me.