Teaching a Roper

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skwerl - I use to take the wraps around the tree like you do. However, I was recently introduced to the Port A Wrap I. This was the original Port A Wrap. If you are using the right rope (braid) and let the load run like normal, you would be amazed at how incredibly easy and effective they are to us on light and heavy loads. They are also more friendly on the rope and tree. The units will help the increase the life of your bull rope.

Also, awesome job summarizing top priorities for your rope boy.
 
A&B, I agree completely. But I'm a subcontractor and work with other company's crews. Nobody in this city knows what a porta-wrap is and I'm not going to train somebody each and every time I need someone to rope off a limb. Everybody with more than 3 weeks experience kinda sorta knows how to 'take a wrap', so that's what I'm stuck with. Since I am always the one cutting and never the one roping, I gotta go with what the ropeman knows.
 
"I also scream at him if he locks down a big chunk of wood and tries to hurt me."

If he tried to hurt you, you'd do more than scream, right? Firing would seem to be the thing to do. Is he retaliating for something you did?

Keep em team-oriented by treating em right.
 
TheTreeSpyder said:
Very Good Rock!

One advantage to Porty over tree wraps is ability to sweat purchase into/past Porty for tightending line.
WTF did you just say? :confused: I know you have lots of good info, but unless you speak the same language as everyone else, your message gets lost. The people who need to hear your message have no clue what you're trying to say. :(
 
id rather wrap around a tree doing most hang jobs over a porty,its one less thing to drag out of the truck.
 
TheTreeSpyder said:
Very Good Rock!

One advantage to Porty over tree wraps is ability to sweat purchase into/past Porty for tightending line.

skwerl said:
WTF did you just say? :confused: I know you have lots of good info, but unless you speak the same language as everyone else, your message gets lost. The people who need to hear your message have no clue what you're trying to say. :(


Welllllllll; i don't get any points for not beeing tooo long this time?:blob2:

Ummmmmmm; by "Very Good Rock"; i meant your previous post on braking in new roper was pretty dang good.....



But; Milleniums olde now is the terminology of taking a Purchase from a rope system; is to pull on it to reduce or tighten line on other side of your pull. Whereby, rope measuremeant is relative to the tension on that line and opposing pull/distance. So, if pulling on a line tied to tree, you get slack out, but length of line to tree stays same; unless you or tree moves. So, they say, you have taken Purchase with a Z-Rig/ 3:1, rather than shortened the other line; because you might have shortened it or might have not shortened it(raised tension instead of travel with your Purchase), when pulling on your end. A 3:1 Purchase you might have heared of; has 3x (-Friction) your ability to take this Purchase without, etc. by linear/inline input effort (zrig / increased pull inline with load line) through pulleys etc. So is a linear pull, whose power is from the sequential lengths of laod travel between load line and anchor.


But, under load; rope becomes a stiff device; therefore lever-ageable/ resists bending. This then allows us to change the distance from point A to point B by bending rope to get more power with perpendicular rather than inline(pulley) input of effort. For the shortest distance between the 2 points is a straight line. Now the tensioned line must carry the the same load farther to achieve same work(because of non-inline path over inline Natural/ minimal loaded path); just like using a longer lever does.

Once again, milleniums olde; is the term of Sweating the Line (for Purchase); with this leveraging (perpendiuclar, to bend/arc stiff device; rather than inline pulley pull strategy to manipulate the distance ratios/ get more power/tension). Mr. Brion Toss relates rather grisly the realities of how for 1000's of years; hundreds of men floating along at mercy of open sea without electricty, radio, gas, turbine or anything; just trusting there skill and the winds on open sea for months at a time. All de-scribed in his pencil sketches (more rustic feel) and story telling in his "Rigger's Apprentice" books. To hoist sail etc. they would use a capstan; for a capstan doesn't lose power like a wench(that loses leveage as drum goes for next tier of turns), capstan is endless; different lines can be loaded into it etc. If the crank handle got lost in storm, broken etc.; they would have to Sweat the line into the Capstan manually. They would bend the loaded line perpendicualr to it's travel to leverage it to higher tension, then snatch it through the capstan, to hold a portion of that higher tension; called Sweating the line for Purchase. There lives depended on the lifting of the sails etc. so as not to drift helplessy at sea; do when they had to; they would Sweat the Purchase from the line(and someone might even get butt kicked fer losing handle etc., making everyone's job harder/ taking turns on Sweating Purchase).

Similarily we can do same, very quickly tweaking line tension, without gear to pretighten our lines thru a Porty for better load control, (better turns) with less impacting etc. no prussik, pulley etc.; and if placing zrig or 5:1 piggyback compression rig on line to gain this Purchase, can finish pretightening with chosen rig, lock it's tail on Porty. Then bend that to squeeze that last drop of higher power from the system we just went thru trouble of setting up for better control etc.

When tying stuff down like hauling motorcycle, moving etc.; for real tension; i'll pretighten with zrig(3/1-linear power/tension increase), lock to itself with a long tail, then take tail and anchor under tension to something else, bending the stiffened zrig. Always pretensioning by linear pull first for imparting as much stiffness/ resistance to bend in the line, then bending that stiffness to tighten it more by leveraging(non-inline/more perpendicular to line tightening strategy) to really multiply line tension much more. Pretightening by inline makes line stiffer for more resistance to bending, then you can't bend as many degrees; this is great; for the real fantastic multiplying leverage is in the shallower bend just degrees off of a straightline. So here less (bend) is definitely more (leverage multiplier). Connecting, yet another line to the perpnedicular to center of sweat line then anchor under tension; gives a "T" Bar. This last line can be leveaged/ bent perpendicular, to bend the sweat line in turn perpendicular to direction force travels on it, for that to bend the load line (or tightened zrig etc.); all in a compounding/multiplying chain of increasing leverage. For so much real power that it can be too much and bend some stuff etc.; especially bouncing thru moving across town etc.!

But anyway, in many forms; especially Sweating a Purchase; the uncommonly thought of or percieved concept of bending a tight line for lightning fast with no gear tightening a line (or as finish for using a pulley rig/inline strategy) to high multiplier is infinitely useful and very powerful.


Spelin Check is gone?

i think this is important stuff, and i did shorten it!:welcome:
 
There ya go.

TS, you tried short and it wasn't enough. Great explanation of Purchase and bending a line. I do that with my tie downs on gear in the truck, too...didn't realize what to call it. But it is a great way to make lines "strumming" tight...high E flat above middle C.

Thanks for your input.
 
It takes time and experiance for some one to become good on a rope. I tryed to get the point acrossby yelling at them,but that didn't work for me. It makes them not want to work with me or quit! And when you find some one that is a hard worker(witch we all know is hard to find these day's) I don't want them to get the wrong impression.
So What I do (and by all means is not the appropriate thing to do) When the roper is first starting is not to rigg things that you know that aren't going to go wrong. I just simply imply that if the fudge it rig up that the are WILL kill me and the will have to take a corpes back to my wife!

Last thing they want to do is kill some and hopefully they will try harder.
 
One thing I've had some sucess with is to self-rig the first few pieces to show the helper what I'm talking about. Of course you need to cut small then, but you are doing that anyways.

I use the term rigging the load, sometimes we want to catch the catch the load, sometimes we want to control it's descent. Each and every cut has some sort of dialog; "This will come off tip heavy so stop it when the twigs hit the ground".
 

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