Tecomec Midi Grinder?s

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I would never sharpen a chain at the field, I would just grab another saw. Usually I don't have to though.
I would never sharpen a chain with a file, because I have a machine to do that - perfectly - every time.
Every tooth gets exactly the same angle and length, every rider gets exactly the same height.
 
I like to cut in 1", 1,5" and 2" so you have a greater virarity to choose from.
Remember, you might want to put some of that through the planer and its gonna take away some...
I can do 1/4" increments on my mill. While trying to pay for college, I worked a while at a real mill and learned a bit about loga from wood to boards to selling. A lot
I would never sharpen a chain at the field, I would just grab another saw. Usually I don't have to though.
I would never sharpen a chain with a file, because I have a machine to do that - perfectly - every time.
If I a lightly turf a chain I make a cut vertical in a stump or round to hold bar. I can touch up a chain with a file about what time it takes me to change a chain out.

My chains cut better than machine ground ones, even if I do it in the woods...........
 
so... the tecomec looks a lot like early hazard fraught grinders, not great but can do the job if your patient. Mine curretly just does raker depths and the occasional gullet cleans.
As for over heating the tooth and ruining the hardness... if they were hard, your files would have a hard time doing anything, that said, after they turn RED and then quickly cool, they do get very hard. the blue/purple isn't so bad, but turning them glowing red is hard on files, grinders, patience and generally leaves a shoddy edge as the fine end gets warped, it can also release the chrome plating leaving the edge unsupported (which is were saw chain gets its durability, not necessarily though heat treatment)
take small bites, and look into getting a spray mister if you are really concerned about overheating the tooth (spray mister uses compressed air to atomize fluid and direct it towards the cut, used a lot in machining especially on old manual mills)
 
My chains cut better than machine ground ones, even if I do it in the woods...........
If that is the case, they don't last as long - its mathematics.
Easy to make your teeth sharp, not so easy to make them both sharp and long lasting.
And to make them all the same, that's like a miracle if you do it by hand.
 
If that is the case, they don't last as long - its mathematics.
Easy to make your teeth sharp, not so easy to make them both sharp and long lasting.
And to make them all the same, that's like a miracle if you do it by hand.
Have my teeth down to the hash mark (evenly) frequently, And Trust me I am no miracle worker. Nowadays the eyeglasses are the miracle. Don't own a grinder but may concede when I start chainsaw millin'.
 
If that is the case, they don't last as long - its mathematics.
Easy to make your teeth sharp, not so easy to make them both sharp and long lasting.
And to make them all the same, that's like a miracle if you do it by hand.
Just the opposite, I only take off what is needed to make a cutter REAL sharp. The longer cutters just get a file stroke or two to even them up with the shorter ones, IF NEEDED. Short ones just until seem sharp. Done that many years now...............

All cutters are perfect angle/sharpness, some get a bit longer/shorter, that evens out next time around. I don't waste steel on a chain.......

I am more of a piss ant on milling chains, but just on cutter length.
 
Have my teeth down to the hash mark (evenly) frequently, And Trust me I am no miracle worker. Nowadays the eyeglasses are the miracle. Don't own a grinder but may concede when I start chainsaw millin'.
You will get 3-4 filings past the hash mark easy, wait till a cutter breaks off then hang it as a "stumper" for cutting crap.

I forgot old eyes, or unobservant. Mark the chain where you start filing with a sharpie on top of cutter. You'll know when it comes around.
 
Just got new glasses, normal, sunglasses and a special work glasses (like magnifying x1,5).
Expensive, I will be paying for that two years ahead, but Ill be looking good doing it..
:cool:
 
Bumping this up again. Anyone use one of these? Thinking of making chain into ripping chains
Bench Grinders spin a wheel, wheel quality more important. Light touch can compensate for higher speed in (cheaper models w/ more flex in plastics) and not overheat the cutters. Guess Motor quality counts for a good piece of higher $$ grinders? Diamond wheels best, but more $$. I love bench grinder nightly to fix the chains I messed up during day. They are what they are, guess I will never have and never need an automatic, LOL
 
I have limited experience with a chain grinder. I work as a small engine mechanic for a city and some guys are super hard on equipment. I would use a file to sharpen most chains but the really bad ones I would take in for machine sharpening. Finally broke down and bought a grinder to use on the really bad chains. They take a lot more material than hand filing but the time they save on the really bad ones makes up for it. Watched a lot of youtube videos, some are good, others not so much. My sharpening may not be pro quality but it certainly isn't any worse than most of their sawing abilities lol
 
Well, its a learning process to get used to it, and it wont be beneficial before you get there.
I'd suggest don't stop playing with it, even though it might seem less favorable to the file you know so well to begin with.
 
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