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off my lathe and milling machine
they say you cannot make a piston because it is to hard with all the different sizing of the piston, the bottom of the piston is bigger that the top yes it is time related but when you got to have it , you got to have it, or you can get wiseco to make you one , it will only cost you $4500 bucks as long as they donot have to make a new mold you get 48 pistons for that price
 
No Dan I donot like my women to need a wide skirt
one fat ass in the family is enough and that would be me
 
now if you have a guy that can weld pistons good he could weld up your skirts then get someone to turn them down
Marcel welded all the 3120 pistons up then turned them down but he had the blank's pistons with no ring grooves in them
 
ehp, I can weld the pistons, but the warping should be large. Was Marcel just welding the skirt? Truing them back up seems to me to be the tuff work! Oh, do you thin your chain on the inside of the tooth or the outside? I thin mine from the inside. Dennis
 
No his welder had very little warp in the pistons, they say that wiseco has a man that can weld up the skirts good also
No turning the piston down on the outside is easy it is the inside of the piston that takes the time, getting in and around your piston pin boss takes some time , my pistons are lighter than the stock ones to plus thinner ring
now on the chain i thin both sides plus the driver , side links to
i guess it helps having a friend in at oregon , he just gives me the stuff . It is nice getting the rivots by them self before they get harden , so i just turn them down to want i want then harden them
 
ehp, I guess i'll have to try to weld one up. Got lots of bad ones to practice on. Are you welding up the ring lands too? Then going thinner ring. On the chain, I don't know anybody that builds a good race chain, that doesn't build it piece by piece, and thin the inside of the tooth. The guys here, haven't been taught the best way, for the fastest chain yet! Start looking for that surface grinder boys. I use Carlton chain products, because I'm on the Carlton Race Team. To bad they don't make 1/2" any more, but have plenty of 3/8's parts. Just wish it could be made faster! Dennis
 
no on the ring groove
Marcel always got the piston from the factory before they put the ring groove in , then just put a thin ring in, i donot know if his welder was using a tig or spool gun or what, i guess i should try it to , i have a good tig that will go down to 2 amps before the peddle and has all the bells on it.
it is alot of work surface grinding all the links but you have to on a chain, i know the guy that has all the dies from oregon for 1/2, a company from down under wanted to buy them to make 1/2 chain 2 years ago but he would not sell them, not sure why . They are not worth much if you donot have the tooling to make the rest of the chain but like most guys he thinks he has a gold mine
 
No i donot run a stroked crank but i will email you with an easy fix for that
on 8 by 8 the 2100 is close to a 3120 ,in 12 inch round the fastest 2100 is ,8 to 1 full second behind , on 16 inch first we donot run the top 2100 in that size of wood but the guys that do are over 2.5 seconds behind they just donot have the torque that the 3120 has, on the pipe it sure looks nice and big,what do you have for a carb on that motor a holley 850 double pumper
i know with my porting that i would need a garden hose to supply enough fuel for a dwell that size in a pipe
 
whats up with that pic, chips say he is cutting up, but the bar is ontop of the chips, plus it dont like up with the tip of the bar and the saw?
 
Thats one of those 3120's that run backwards, but don't forget, if you bump up the timing and make it run that way you have to put your chain on backwards too!
 
my picture looks fine from here
now what do you call that kind of wood there
the reason is i have been over most of north america and they call wood types different from area to area
 
Do not laugh i have seen 2 saws run backwards at shows
one was a 090 and one was bush's 3120 at a show
matt hit the block and it would cut nothingso he shut if off restarted it and it did the same thing. he asked what in the he#l was going on , when he shut it off you could see the chain running backwards, so much for timing the flywheel that time
 
Running Backwards!

ehp, I've seen this happen at the Fort Bragg show, and when the guy finally figured out the chain was running backward, it was to late to stop laughing.
 
I havr cut cotton wood in ohio and mich.
there it cut like popular , was soft and seem to take no more power than aspen.But i know one thing it didnot chop like aspen
i got suckered in to a show that everyone else had aspen but i got cotton wood, it looked good but it does not chip like aspen
if you make me look like a ass , that is your fault but if you do it again that is my fault
so you can say i learned from that deal
 
ehp, Cottonwood is a type of Poplar, so is aspen, but like you said, it cuts different. Cottonwood seems to be a little more stringy. It also is abraisive. There is a lot of it around and not worth much, so it gets used in the west for contest wood a lot. Plus it grows quite big so you can get big blocks if you need them. The Morton Jubilee changed over to it about 4 years ago. The hot saw record there in 27" cottonwood is 2.47 seconds with a hot start. I cut it in 2.59 this year for the win, but not the record. I've never seen a rotax cut it under 3 seconds. I'd like to see Matt come to Morton some time and give it a try, or if Jim gets a 500 from Lemke.
 
well when i was talking to russ he was just starting so he said but that was almost a year ago so if it had worked it should of been done by now. When i see Matt i will tell him to get his sorry ass outthere ok but he will need a longer bar forsure. it would be interesting to see what happens. I donot like the rotax but when the guys already have them i have to work on them. they vibrate alot, so much that to get them to work you need the to do some carb work to get them to run right, plus the way the handles are set for you is no good to me, we change the trottle handle right off the bat. i thought that jim was running his rotax on alcohol or did he not get it to work. Mel needs somehelp the last time i saw his saw run, he cut his pipe all to he@l and it was not working very well
 
ehp, I don't know who has the picture me or Tom, but we cut the rear handle off Tom's rotax with a skill saw the first night it got to my house. I'll see if I can find that picture and post it. The reason I built my first 250 Honda was because of the way the rotax is set-up. Way to long, and not very user friendly, unless your a big tall guy. Tom helped Jim with an Alkie carb, but you'll have to ask Tom on what went on, and how it ran. I like the rotax motor, and have always wanted to build my type of frame for the motor. I don't like the Mikuni carb they use either. If I had a rotax motor I would do a lot of changes, but just to cut 20" three cut wood!
 
Myself i donot mined the carb , it works ok but to change your jetting it takes time, a round slide or the flat slide carbs would be easier to adjust that is for sure. Not sure why he has the handles way to far apart, when i try to run one of those dam things it is hard to hit the block straight i find
 

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