The best 2 cycle chainsaw oil

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I had to remove the spark arrestors because their pants and shirts were getting caught in the screens and plugging the mufflers, LOL.

I try to not listen to the screams anymore, LOL.

Sam

You can't expect much better from them when there is only one female Smurf on the entire planet. :laugh:


(I learned this from a recent gender imbalance in kids stories article. Yeah I know, I've got to get out more :D )
 
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Oil can and will go bad, mostly because of moisture and solvent evaporation. This is epically true with ester oils as they like to absorb moisture. Some synthetic oils like Stihl Ultra are biodegradable and will breakdown in 90 days in an unsealed container. With that said as long as the lid is on tight, even these oils will last a few years. I only mix what I need, not a whole quart at a time.

JJay03 they're a few motorcycle shops in town that sell Klotz and Maxima products. If you go that route I suggest picking up a ratio-rite mixing cup, it makes mixing oil super easy and very accurate. You can find them at any motorcycle shop.

Cycle Specialties Inc. 6175 Harrison Ave. Cincinnati OH 45247 Phone: 513.574.7878....... They carry Klotz SuperTechniPlate, Yamaha lube, Bel-Ray and Maxima SuperM.

Honda of Florence 6507 Dixie Hwy Florence KY 41042 Phone: (859) 371-1212 Fax: (859) 282-4111....... They carry Klotz R50 and several other quality oils.
 
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K thanks man. I dont have an issue mixing it its just opening a container of oil then not using the rest for awhile.
Hey john,

I do not mix the whole quart. You mix the proper amount for 40 - 1 or 50-1 gas. Oil go bad? Dyno is millions of years old already. Synthetic should last at least 5.

Confused how to measure your oil? Its cool, happens to the best of us...

Oil mix Calculator

40-1 is 3.2 oz of oil. one gal gas
50-1 is 2.56 oz of oil. one gal gas.

Should have asked this before I shipped your other pipe. I could have made you a Stainless steel cylinder for measuring your oil. You can get a graduated cylinder out of plastic if you like. Or just use one of your small stihl bottles and keep refilling it.

Your 361 mod is on its way. Just follow the instructions I put in there.
 
K thanks man. I dont have an issue mixing it its just opening a container of oil then not using the rest for awhile.

As Andre said, don't sweat it.
My ester based two stroke oil in the shed has been opened and re-closed and sitting for six months and I won't have a problem reusing it.
These oils generally contain additives to offset any moisture absorbtion, it isn't an issue.

The only esters that have a real issue with moisture and air are refrigeration polyolesters (POE's, and worse still are polyalkylglycols, PAG's)

None of you blokes will probably ever come across them, but if you do they are extremely hygroscopic and are basically not fit for use after exposure to air for several minutes.
In theory the unused portion should be discarded after opening.
I purge the tin with dry nitrogen immediately so I don't waste any ( My wholesale cost is upwards of $30/litre :msp_blink:) and they always come in a tin, they are so hygroscopic that moisture permeates a plastic bottle in a fairly short time.
 
The only real issue with some of these oils is storage of the actual engine, not the oil. Oils like Klotz SuperTechniPlate which isn't an ester oil, but a blend of Castor and plant oils. These oils have been known to cause some crank rust in motorcycle that have been stored for many months. I know quite a few that run the stuff and have never had any issues with this in saws, I've even used it without issues + it smells really cool.:cheers:
 
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Thanks thats the kind of answer I was looking for. I just bought some more HP Ultra but I might try the Klotz next thats if I even go through the HP this yr.

As Andre said, don't sweat it.
My ester based two stroke oil in the shed has been opened and re-closed and sitting for six months and I won't have a problem reusing it.
These oils generally contain additives to offset any moisture absorbtion, it isn't an issue.

The only esters that have a real issue with moisture and air are refrigeration polyolesters (POE's, and worse still are polyalkylglycols, PAG's)

None of you blokes will probably ever come across them, but if you do they are extremely hygroscopic and are basically not fit for use after exposure to air for several minutes.
In theory the unused portion should be discarded after opening.
I purge the tin with dry nitrogen immediately so I don't waste any ( My wholesale cost is upwards of $30/litre :msp_blink:) and they always come in a tin, they are so hygroscopic that moisture permeates a plastic bottle in a fairly short time.
 
anyone used this? it was available and recomended at my local napa when I used to log so my boss used it exclusively. Then I was just in the sthil shop and they had a wall of it there. I like the big bottle with the pump measure cup so you could measure your oil for 50:1 then add a little extra after. the website touts it meets the highest standard and is the BEST 2 stroke oil availible just wondered if its popular nationally or even worldwide.

2 cycle oil - Opti2, Opti4, and Chemical Rebuild - Premium Lubricants from Interlube International
 
I usually run stihl ultra (blue-green), I ran out the other day and used a friends stihl regular (red), could tell the difference straightaway there seemed to be a lot more smoke coming out of my 346xp then usual!

I know mix was right as I used the same measure as I usually use, so tomorrow I'm going to buy some more ultra mix as it seems healtheir for both me and my saw.
The ultra burns cleaner, so you could use more in the mix without smoke, use the same amount
of Dino oil and there is the possibility of smoke.
 
Oh know another oil post, use the search engine or you tube hotsaws101 has an oil test there.

I use the saws manufacture suggested oil. Husky= Xp+ two stroke oil at 38:1.

Maxima “super maxima” is for nikasil cylinders.
Maxima “927” is a synthetic blend with Castor oil added for castiron sleeved engines.
 
Ultra is not a clean burning oil.
I don’t use it, have seen a video of some guy test it with those pre pack fuels,
inside the engines were clean, all but the piston top
He also showed there was less oil in the bottom end of the saw using ultra,
that lead me to put ultra at the back of my list of my list.
 
I buy Mecury Marine Quick Sliver Plus by the gallons for the boat motor. works very well in it so in the season I use it in my saws.

If you stay away from the Mecury dealer to buy it the cost is resonable.

And that is my contrbution to a very old thread that means not to much.

Al
 
I wouldn't run water cooled TCW3 in my saws. Maybe the last two cuts at the end of the day to finish a job when I've run out of my normal stuff, but not as a general rule.
Is Shafers 7000 not a water cooled two stroke oil,
I hear nothing bad about it in chainsaws.

We used water cooled two stroke oil for a decade, it was for boat engines, too young to
remember the name of it, but it was bought for the outboards.
The 041 it was put in still runs 40 years later, it was never opened,
got an oil pump fixed though.

Would anyone like to try some cooking fat in their AT or MT and report back.

I see on the the shelves here, cooking oil with a warning, do not use in deep fat fryers,
I guess flash point matters, or maybe there’s more to it, am happy enough with Mobil1 Racing,
Halfords the bike store / car care outlet carry it, and there’s a good few of them around.
 

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