The finer points of a plunge cut.

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BewtifulTreeMan

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I find the plunge/bore cut to be very usefull, particularly
for felling leaners and stumping. I never have any trouble with it using my 16" saw. But with my 24", its kinda tricky, especially if the chain could use a sharpening. It likes to kick out, and once it does that, it seems like its harder to get it started again. It seems like that narrow tip on the 16" bar must make a difference. What about length of bar? more/less leverage

So, how much throttle do you like to use? When do you move from the bottom of the tip, to pushing straight in? What do you guys focus on to make it work every time?
 
if you want peak performance when you plunge cut, filing off the back of the tooth helps
 
basic

comments like this will get you branded a hack,

but everyone asks questions.

sharp saw....always sharp when boring, half revs (only one tooth cutting). i always start with a pullin chain and work in, then rotate to a bore, boss starts with a pullng chain then begins his bore. dont push it let it cut its way in. i bore in when there is enough wood around the nose that it is less likely to kick out.

jamie
 
Full throttle and use two hands. Start using the bottom 90 of the tip sliceing a wider hole than the thickness of the bar working it in and then just plunge.
 
Originally posted by BigJohn
Full throttle and use two hands. Start using the bottom 90 of the tip sliceing a wider hole than the thickness of the bar working it in and then just plunge.


he said it best. i do the same thing. and you can do it with any length bar. just be very carefull this is a high danger cut
 
chain?

The chain could use shapening? Why didn't you stop and touch it up? It only takes a miniute or two. Your problem with the 24" bar is the saw is bigger and heavier than the 16" you're using. It takes more effort to control more weight. This thread sounds like you're trolling.
 

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