The Oregon File Guide modded for square filing

[24d]

This could be done by just making one part twice for each guide and it would fit any guide made. Think of a small piece of steel that would slip over the end of a square file with a set screw to hold it on, then the other end would be a quarter inch round piece about an inch long to slip into the guide where the round file was meant to go. Clamp your file in a vise and break the tail off and the same part would fit both ends.
I know there has got to be some machinists up here that can make a simple kit to sell.

 

[parrisw]

This could be done by just making one part twice for each guide and it would fit any guide made. Think of a small piece of steel that would slip over the end of a square file with a set screw to hold it on, then the other end would be a quarter inch round piece about an inch long to slip into the guide where the round file was meant to go. Clamp your file in a vise and break the tail off and the same part would fit both ends.
I know there has got to be some machinists up here that can make a simple kit to sell.

Im not really following your thoughts? Hard to picture. Maybe you could do a simple drawing?

 

[24d]

Im not really following your thoughts? Hard to picture. Maybe you could do a simple drawing?

Yea, I'll try to do that today.
Picture a 3/4 to 1/4 reducer coupling for a piece of pipe, thread a hole for a set screw in one side of the 3/4 end, slip in the file and tighten the screw till it holds the file against the opposite wall, then slip the 1/4 end into the guide where the round file went. Bam, it's converted.

 

[parrisw]

Yea, I'll try to do that today.
Picture a 3/4 to 1/4 reducer coupling for a piece of pipe, thread a hole for a set screw in one side of the 3/4 end, slip in the file and tighten the screw till it holds the file against the opposite wall, then slip the 1/4 end into the guide where the round file went. Bam, it's converted.

Ok I'm following ya now.

 

[24d]

Ok I'm following ya now.

I thought you get me then.
The first one I saw converted belonged to Dennis Cahoon, I can't find a picture of it but that was pretty much the way it was done.
Once you get it to hold it steady, you can make it do anything you want.

 

[parrisw]

I thought you get me then.
The first one I saw converted belonged to Dennis Cahoon, I can't find a picture of it but that was pretty much the way it was done.
Once you get it to hold it steady, you can make it do anything you want.

Right, I might try to make it a little more pretty. But if it works it works. Just don't know when I'll have the time, go too many projects.

 

[24d]

Right, I might try to make it a little more pretty.

That is the way I looked at it, fancied up, easy to use as possible, use your imagination, make a cool tool!

 

[Freakingstang]

Late to the party, but this is what I have used for years...

Grandberg once made a File-N-Joint for Chisel bit files. I believe that is where the machinist guy got the idea for the Stihl. I have been thinking about making a bench mount version... have looked into the FG2 also and don't like the price. Anyone make one similar?

Here's the old bar mount chiset bit FNJ, thinking of getting a Stihl bench mount and adapting this to it...

best close up pic of the tooth I could get with my iphone. This was square ground stihl chain to start with. I normally touch it up by hand, but just threw it on quick(with an old file) to show some pics. It works great for converting round chain to square, or squaring up a rocked out chain, otherwise, I file by hand, as I'm impatient and the jig takes too much fidling with left and right...

 

[cutforfun]

a little bit back woods but it works good.
Parts needed
2- 7/16 nut drivers for drill
2- 1/4 bit holders

i found that a pferd file fits tight in a 7/16 nut driver (corner to corner)that got me thinking:confused2: i wonder.
i took the two bit holders and cut them off about 1/2 in or so just to give me a round tube to slip over the 1/4 shank on the nut driver, that would give me full range of rotation in the jig. from there all i had to do was cut a 10 dollar file down to fit tight between the to 7/16 drivers and tighten up all the clamps. next thing i new i came up with this .

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

You should see the one Adam Clarke made from stihl version and machined new parts for so you could square file faster chains. :msp_thumbup: Beautiful craftsmanship like always from him and then he gave it to someone in TN.

 

[Freakingstang]

a little bit back woods but it works good.
Parts needed
2- 7/16 nut drivers for drill
2- 1/4 bit holders

i found that a pferd file fits tight in a 7/16 nut driver (corner to corner)that got me thinking:confused2: i wonder.
i took the two bit holders and cut them off about 1/2 in or so just to give me a round tube to slip over the 1/4 shank on the nut driver, that would give me full range of rotation in the jig. from there all i had to do was cut a 10 dollar file down to fit tight between the to 7/16 drivers and tighten up all the clamps. next thing i new i came up with this .

Great ingenuity.. How do you tighten the bar down to hold the tooth, or are you just relying on the clamp of the file jig? That was the only thing i didn't like about the FNJ, it didn't seem to hold the tooth tight enough. Chatter on a 15 dollar file ruins it real quick

 

[cutforfun]

i set the rails on the jig as high as i can on the chain above the rivets. It works ok, i can see that i have a small beak in the tooth i took pics of. I will play with it a bit more and take some more pics.

 

[w8ye]

I went to the hardware up the street and purchased a couple 7/16" nut driver bits and two 1/4" bit holders. It was close to $30.

The 7/16" Irwin bits come close (across the corners of the socket is slightly small for the file which is good) to fitting the flat portion of a double bevel chisel file (The one I tried was a Save Edge). The sockets also have a round shank on them about 1/2" long before the hex portion that fits in the Oregon Professional guide. It appears to me - in order to keep the file level, you need to set up the file to use the 7/16" bits on both ends? Also, if necessary, you can get a new rod and key stock to make the Oregon Professional Guide longer, if you like, at the hardware store?

The 1/4" bit holders (Do-It) would fit the handle portion of the file if the handle portion was shortened somewhat.

FWIW - There is nothing about these holder bits that fit any part of a Pferd 3 Corner Chisel File.

It is a cold rainy day and fine for working on a chain but I have not done that yet today.

 

[Freakingstang]

I went to the hardware up the street and purchased a couple 7/16" nut driver bits and two 1/4" bit holders. It was close to $30.

The 7/16" Irwin bits come close (across the corners of the socket is slightly small for the file which is good) to fitting the flat portion of a double bevel chisel file (The one I tried was a Save Edge). The sockets also have a round shank on them about 1/2" long before the hex portion that fits in the Oregon Professional guide. It appears to me - in order to keep the file level, you need to set up the file to use the 7/16" bits on both ends? Also, if necessary, you can get a new rod and key stock to make the Oregon Professional Guide longer, if you like, at the hardware store?

The 1/4" bit holders (Do-It) would fit the handle portion of the file if the handle portion was shortened somewhat.

FWIW - There is nothing about these holder bits that fit any part of a Pferd 3 Corner Chisel File.

It is a cold rainy day and fine for working on a chain but I have not done that yet today.

Great day for cutting and splitting... lmao

 

[w8ye]

Concerning holding the chain tight on the bar.

Jeremiah Johnson showed me to mount the chain on a bar on a chainsaw. To have the chain the normal tightness on the chainsaw.

But when using the guide -and- you get the chain in position against the stop on the guide . . . .

You stick a scrench between the chain and the bar on the bottom side of the bar to make the chain extremely tight - to file it.

Then remove the scrench to move the chain up to the next tooth.

This way you do not get the tooth cocking up on the front edge.

 

[cutforfun]

A 7/16. Driver with a round part on the shank would be perfict , mine did not have that.

 

[w8ye]

The Irwin brand 7/16" nut driver bits fit in the older Oregon/Tecomec Professional file guide like you have without modification.

However, neither the Irwin nut drivers or the Do-it holders will fit in the current model Oregon professional guide as it is smaller and only holds 1/4" diameter or a raker file without modification.

The "Do-it" brand bit holders are the same diameter as the Irwin nut driver bits.

I also found out that the key stock and drill rod for the slides on the guide are 6mm (.236") which you would have to get at McMaster-Carr to make the guide longer. I think they come in 12" length?

I think the real old die cast holder style Oregon Professional guide will hold the Irwin nut drivers without modes.

 

[parrisw]

a little bit back woods but it works good.
Parts needed
2- 7/16 nut drivers for drill
2- 1/4 bit holders

i found that a pferd file fits tight in a 7/16 nut driver (corner to corner)that got me thinking:confused2: i wonder.
i took the two bit holders and cut them off about 1/2 in or so just to give me a round tube to slip over the 1/4 shank on the nut driver, that would give me full range of rotation in the jig. from there all i had to do was cut a 10 dollar file down to fit tight between the to 7/16 drivers and tighten up all the clamps. next thing i new i came up with this .

Good idea, I may turn something up on the lathe instead of using nut drivers, then just mill a slot to fit the file and a set screw to hold it.

 

[cutforfun]

Better make a few sets and i will send you my address:msp_tongue:

 

[parrisw]

Better make a few sets and i will send you my address:msp_tongue:

Might be a possibility! I got lots of projects, I'll try and do it soon and see how it goes.