I hope this video helps save you frustration and wasted money on terrible gas cans for your saws and other engines, these ones are a game changer!
The Perfect Gas Can…
- Thread starter Vintage Engine Repairs
- Start date
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Got rid of all my plastic cans a few years ago, two of the cans were like your video cans. Couldn't stand them. I'll stick with wavian/nato jerry cans. The "epa" nozzles work great and there are plenty of regular nozzles for those that don't like them.
They rust and condensate, the latch binds over time too when you wear the paint and it rusts, both for the nozzle and the lid too as shown in the video. The nozzle collects dust and debris too which can end up in your tank. Not my preference personally.
Eagle safety metal can or the VP racing type jugs . Had the can above or a copy not sure but the nozzle broke after a while and gas would spill all over .
Condensation will happen in both if not kept full
Condensation will happen in both if not kept full
Give me a can with just a pour spout. it can be a flexible one but the new ones with push button BS they can keep. leave it to the government to screw up a gas can. i bought one of them overpriced push button crap. i hate that thing. i just haven't replaced the spout yet.
I have three of them and I find they work better than anything I have used.
Awesome mate, I haven’t found anything better yet!
Clearwater
ArboristSite Member
I have one of these cans and it works great for me. I use it for two stroke mixed gas for chainsaws and OPE. Used it for about five years with no trouble.
Nice! I’m at 4 years and all I did was put a new o/ring in the back.
on eBay, or probably Amazon, and you can buy the standard spouts and caps for the plastic cans. They are super cheap and you get like six at a time which means you can loose them - something I have never done of course z
Just paid 12 bucks for the spout. Tractor Supply had the 2.5 gallon cans for 25.00 just bought that too.on eBay, or probably Amazon, and you can buy the standard spouts and caps for the plastic cans. They are super cheap and you get like six at a time which means you can loose them - something I have never done of course z
You should get a Narrator job on National Geographic about prides of Lions and leave the gas cans alone.
Geo019t
ArboristSite Lurker
After forty-plus years questioning "what's the best?" complemented with my desire to ONLY use fresh fuel, I now (for past several years) have a metal 1/2-gallon can which initially held Stihl Moto-Mix. I purchase 4-gallon lots of highest-test ethanol-free petrol, to which I add Sta-bil and SeaFoam.
I then pour measured two liters of this into the now-empty Moto-Mix can, adding RedArmor to a 40:1 mix. If -- say, at end of season, I have a bit left in can I first dump and then rinse it with fresh Petrol into a truck, or splitter, or what ever is at hand.
This works for me....
geo
I then pour measured two liters of this into the now-empty Moto-Mix can, adding RedArmor to a 40:1 mix. If -- say, at end of season, I have a bit left in can I first dump and then rinse it with fresh Petrol into a truck, or splitter, or what ever is at hand.
This works for me....
geo
I use the same no spill cans he has and have for quite a while now but mine are filled with canned gas and they reside in the corner of the shop which is climate controlled anyway. Only thing I get in my fuel tank is some errant swarf I missed with my ever present paint brush that I use to clean around the caps (bar oil and gas) that I use to remove any debris prior to filling them. I don't believe I've ever changed either an in tank fuel filter nor an oil filter, ever. Always clean when I pull them out.
One thing I do-do is when I'm done using any saw, it comes in and gets blown off with compressed air first thing, before anything. and then I'll pull the bar and clean the groove and grease the roller nose (if applicable) reassemble it and I might flip it and reinstall it, depending on if I install a new sharpened loop. I'm somewhat anal about running sharp chains. The no spill cans IMO are tits and I use them for my lawn equipment as well but with corn squeezed gas instead. Once I saw the can he was using, I knew what his comments would be. Tractor supply sells them and so does Menards fyi.
The only way the rust is if they get water in them, the latches don't screw up with any amount of regular use, nor does water collect in them. The epa spouts don't allow any more or less dirt in the the cans you like, and also don't over fill a fuel tank. The regular nozzles have debris screen in them. Coupple that with only a fool doesn't keep fueling devices clean. I have nato cans dating back to ww2 that function perfectly fine, liners intact, no rust.
They are not perfect but if you are willing to accept that they will puff up and squeeze down best so far that I have.
If you decide to use premix in 1 gallon size and never use straight gas in one gallon size, there is a white deep plastic screen of sorts in it that will make it possible to get reassurance that there is indeed dyed oil added. The big opening for the larger ones is great for 5-gallon size and a giant funnel for things with sizeable tanks to be filled. Take the cap off and room for air to get in and liquid to come out pretty much as fast as the funnel you use will permit.
I am not watching the video but at least this one is not hope it helps someone when the same thing is in the owner's manual.
If you decide to use premix in 1 gallon size and never use straight gas in one gallon size, there is a white deep plastic screen of sorts in it that will make it possible to get reassurance that there is indeed dyed oil added. The big opening for the larger ones is great for 5-gallon size and a giant funnel for things with sizeable tanks to be filled. Take the cap off and room for air to get in and liquid to come out pretty much as fast as the funnel you use will permit.
I am not watching the video but at least this one is not hope it helps someone when the same thing is in the owner's manual.
They still attract condensation. Not an issue and may be great (?) for long term storage but not good for those keeping partial filled cans around for everyday use.
I had plastic tool boxes for years and tools never rusted. Switched to steel and screwdrivers, chisels, hammers, sockets, and Channel Locks were covered in rust within a year. It only makes sense that gas cans will do the same unless filled to the top
Only time condensation can occur in a gas can is if it's unsealed. Plastic vs metal means basically nothing. Keeping it full helps as less air can get into it. A sealed can may condensate, but won't accumulate much if any noticeable water. Gas cans specifically are less likely to get condensation inside from the high vaporization point of the fuel. The issues are most often seen in diesel standby tanks with low volume usage, or big temps swings daily. A small can or high usage tank won't ever see these issues. Low tech solutions use fuel tanks with one way vents to prevent air from just pulling in and out. Better solutions include using a nitrogen pillow instead of allowing air to enter the tank. All pretty much a moot point for a small 5 gallon fuel can with gas or diesel in it.
