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Do you know the Stihl part number or which saw it goes to?
Mark

If it's an 026 hose, (also MS260's and 024's), the part number is 1121 358 7700. The 1121 saws used two different hoses. The 7700 is the later style for a later tank version with a larger fuel line opening. Also, the early version was a straight hose.

Could also be from an early 1127 series (029,039,), but they have a slightly different mold and the later MS style hose is distinctly different looking at each end, though does still have the same sea horse shape.

But I'm with Tim and think it's an 1121 hose.
 
I will let you all get it sorted out, then pick up one or two just to see how they work. I do have a good supply of the Buna N grommets that allow me to use the larger diameter Tygon but you do have to manage it properly to avoid a kink where it connects to the carburetor. I suppose I could use a spring in the hose, maybe the spring from the Mimi Mac manual oil pump as they are cheap and plentiful.

I also have plenty of Teflon thread tape for those OEM hoses that are O.K. except for being a little loose through the hole in the tank.

Mark
 
As a brief follow-up, it dawned on me that the little Stihls also use the same type of sea horse fuel hose..., more specifically, a hose with the distinct point on the top grommet lip as in the Maint. Super pic. The ribbing is different, though. And they are now made of green rubber instead of black. I still think Tim nailed it.
 
The sthil fuel line works ,but it takes practice and I've torn a couple pulling them through the tank to the carb, you've got to be forceful with it and have your finger in the tank feeling it seat, but every time I buy a "mac 10-10 " line it hardens and breaks within weeks.
 
I'm looking to restore my fathers 10-10 automatic. I'm wondering what I should do about the air cleaner lid. It needs to be repainted but I dont want to lose the white lettering. It would take an awful lot of masking to paint the lettering seperate.
What are my options here? Look for a better air cleaner cover?
 
I don't know of too many guys who do complete restos on their Macs.Most of the people I know on another forum restore their Homelites.I can do some asking there & see if I can get some advice for you.The other thing you could do is contact Joe Salva from Sugar Creek Supply who custom makes decals.If you need his contact info let me know.
Ed
 
I believe its painted lettering, not a decal.
Like this.
f3dd43a6aeee4c641770bfe496e4ecf4.jpg
 
He may not have them readily available on the shelf and may need to make them up. Doesn't keep too much stock just laying around to dry out over time. He also suggests an application solution you can make yourself that allows quite a bit of time and flexibility for positioning before committing to final placement. Works well.
 
OK Kevin,I contacted Leon about your situation.He said he uses a good quality hobby brush.Here is what he said:" I paint my raised bars and lettering with a small hobby brush. My method definitely takes a steady hand and usually two coats, but I'm pleased with how it turns out."This sounds like it's time consuming,but when you get into restos,especially the painting part,it does take time.
Ed
 
I did not realize he made a decal set...... that is perfect!!!!

That set of white decals will work but just know that it will not have the same logo as the original cover. There is a set of black decals on Sugar Creek Supply for the "McCulloch Mac 10-10" that has the original "cMC" logo but does not include the word "Automatic" with it. The white letter set does contain the word "Automatic", but has the "Mountains" logo - which does not match up with the "cMC" logo on your dad's 10-10A. Up to you how you want to do it, (and it will work), but personally - if my flywheel cover and clutch cover had the cMC logo on it, I'd want the rest of the saw to match up.
 
I bought an airbox cover for my grandfather's saw that was in better shape off of eBay once. I was all excited until it got here and I realized that it had the Black and Decker "Mountains Logo" as opposed to the cMC logo that matched up with my Grandpa's 10-10A..
 

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