The unofficial Mac 10-10 thread

[Maintenance supervisor]

Shed. Curious where this is going... If you bring it in to a warm building after working out in the cold, the temperature increase pressurizes the tank and forces the oil out?

FWIW Grumpy (also a 10-10 | 600013U) sits out there with Bits and does not exhibit this.

Ok just curious since there's a check valve in the oil cap, I pushed oil in a cold to hot situation before.
There is a tiny ball bearing pressed into the oil tank right above the bar mount plate , most of mine still have sealant from the factory around them , it could need a wack with a jeweler's hammer or it could have fallen out. It loks to be a passage block.

 

[vizette]

Ok just curious since there's a check valve in the oil cap, I pushed oil in a cold to hot situation before.
There is a tiny ball bearing pressed into the oil tank right above the bar mount plate , most of mine still have sealant from the factory around them , it could need a wack with a jeweler's hammer or it could have fallen out. It loks to be a passage block.

Gotcha - thanks for the reply! I know exactly what you're talking about with the ball bearing, will go have a look when I get a chance.

Is the cap check valve a duckbill like the gas caps? I've taken the gas caps apart before, but have never fiddled with the oil cap.

 

[heimannm]

That ball is simply plugging a passage that is cross drilled to get oil over to the bar pad. Don't mess with the ball.

There are check valves in the manual and automatic oil pumps. Some later saws had a check valve in the oil tank cap but many others had a cap with no breather and a small hole drilled in the top of the oil tank with a cotter pin to minimize the size of the passage way. Those saws will always leak a bit when the saw is tipped with the flywheel side down.

Mark

 

[vizette]

Since we were talking about various fuel line methods... Here's what I ended up doing on a couple 10-10 with thick fuel line (I believe 1/4" id and 1/2" od ?) and tygon, based on some posts I've seen here. I changed out the fuel barbs both saws to 90 degree elbows so I didn't have to fight to try and get the tygon on the monster barbs that come on them. The elbows pressed right in like the original, I tapped them in with a hammer, and they do not leak. I believe they are Walbro part WLB-128-64-1, I got them for ~ $3 each

Getting the thick line through the tank hole was a bit of a fight - I used the typical method of cutting it at an angle on one end, push through, and grab with pliers and yank it through the rest of the way until you get it where you want it, then trim. I found it easier to use bent nose pliers and pull through the tank side, so that I could get a good grip on it from the carb side and push. The tygon actually goes through the thick line without too much fight if you oil it up. I think I used bar oil on one of them LOL. I tried putting the tygon through the thicker line first, and then getting it all into the tank hole in one shot, but just couldn't get it all to go through that way.

The fuel filter I used on the other end is a half metal, half felt ended type filter, like Walbro 125-527-1 Walbro states that filter is for 30cc, but so far they've been no issue at all feeding Bits and Grumpy.

 

[mogulmasher]

So working on getting a 2-10 together and running. I cleaned up and rewound recoil spring last night and put on, pull the rope and it stayed out. Unbolted bar nuts and as soon as nuts loosened rope retracted. Now this saw was missing bar plates when I got it. Do bar plates need to be installed on these right hand start saws so recoil doesn't bind on clutch? Guessing that's why rope retracted as soon as bars were loose.

 

[mogulmasher]

Nevermind, the hooked end of spring that's on recoil housing popped off. Took it apart rewound the disaster that happened to the spring and all is good. This saw just got a nos muffler and replaced clutch springs in addition to getting recoil back together. Poured mix down carb throat and it fires right up. Won't stay running though.

Fuel line is pretty hard and leaking. I'll replace that next. Also needs air filter hot glued with fleece and a new 16" bar. I'm hoping after all that it's a runner. If not I'll have to try a new diaphragm in the bullfrog carb.

 

[vizette]

Curious where you got the muffler? I feel like people are price gouging for that style whenever I go looking for one.

Also wondering, in general, are there any rules on the site about calling someone out for selling crap? I got two molded fuel lines on ebay off a big seller there and they both turned hard as rock in less than 6 months. One of them only saw fuel one time! I contacted him and he pretty much told me "too bad". Just don't want to see someone else get burned if I can help it...

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Don't know about rules but yeah should let us all know for sure. Can deal with a leaky 1 but that's not really fit for use at all is it sooo yeah that's my opinion anyway.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Nevermind, the hooked end of spring that's on recoil housing popped off. Took it apart rewound the disaster that happened to the spring and all is good. This saw just got a nos muffler and replaced clutch springs in addition to getting recoil back together. Poured mix down carb throat and it fires right up. Won't stay running though.

Fuel line is pretty hard and leaking. I'll replace that next. Also needs air filter hot glued with fleece and a new 16" bar. I'm hoping after all that it's a runner. If not I'll have to try a new diaphragm in the bullfrog carb.View attachment 783239 View attachment 783240

Good luck with that carb man mine run good for two days its awaiting an sdc conversion. It just fits underneath but.... the choke is a no go and I'm going to make a sliding choke. So basically drill and rally the holes for an sdc and make or find the mount on top for the air box lid and a sliding choke. I know yes can swap the tank but then what makes it a 2-10 is gone and it's just another franken10

 

[mogulmasher]

Curious where you got the muffler? I feel like people are price gouging for that style whenever I go looking for one.

Also wondering, in general, are there any rules on the site about calling someone out for selling crap? I got two molded fuel lines on ebay off a big seller there and they both turned hard as rock in less than 6 months. One of them only saw fuel one time! I contacted him and he pretty much told me "too bad". Just don't want to see someone else get burned if I can help it...

Got the muffler on fleabay. Just search for 2-10 muffler and it comes right up. Price wasn't too bad and I think they have more available. Came in a baggie with original McCulloch instruction sheet. It fit perfect. Had to reuse my original muffler cover, but mine was in good shape so it bolted right up.

Good luck with that carb man mine run good for two days its awaiting an sdc conversion. It just fits underneath but.... the choke is a no go and I'm going to make a sliding choke. So basically drill and rally the holes for an sdc and make or find the mount on top for the air box lid and a sliding choke. I know yes can swap the tank but then what makes it a 2-10 is gone and it's just another franken10

I know I'm keeping fingers crossed on this one. Saw looks to have sat on a shelf for a very long time. Hoping it was parked before ethonal was ever used in it. Inside of gas and oil tanks was as clean as can be in a saw this old. And yes I want to keep the original look and the bullfrog so it's an original 2-10 and not another frankenmac for sure.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Got the muffler on fleabay. Just search for 2-10 muffler and it comes right up. Price wasn't too bad and I think they have more available. Came in a baggie with original McCulloch instruction sheet. It fit perfect. Had to reuse my original muffler cover, but mine was in good shape so it bolted right up.



I know I'm keeping fingers crossed on this one. Saw looks to have sat on a shelf for a very long time. Hoping it was parked before ethonal was ever used in it. Inside of gas and oil tanks was as clean as can be in a saw this old. And yes I want to keep the original look and the bullfrog so it's an original 2-10 and not another frankenmac for sure.

I'll cross mine for ya too
Mine was parked for who knows how long and still had the mac 354 sprocket on it and some 3/8 chain but hadn't been run alot like that. Ethanol gas is highly unlikely down here and.. .. .. nup 2 days brap brap ran really well I was over the moon and then it went to hell

It's in really good nick and a very clean piston
A very light saw too

Does it really matter what carb it has though? They did come with an sdc too I'm told

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Curious where you got the muffler? I feel like people are price gouging for that style whenever I go looking for one.

Also wondering, in general, are there any rules on the site about calling someone out for selling crap? I got two molded fuel lines on ebay off a big seller there and they both turned hard as rock in less than 6 months. One of them only saw fuel one time! I contacted him and he pretty much told me "too bad". Just don't want to see someone else get burned if I can help it...

Same fuel line problem for me to, except I bought mine from Amazon !? New in the package molded fuel lines both turn hard as rocks in 3 months and leaked.
Now I pretty much get stens brand and haven't had too many problems.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Curious where you got the muffler? I feel like people are price gouging for that style whenever I go looking for one.

Also wondering, in general, are there any rules on the site about calling someone out for selling crap? I got two molded fuel lines on ebay off a big seller there and they both turned hard as rock in less than 6 months. One of them only saw fuel one time! I contacted him and he pretty much told me "too bad". Just don't want to see someone else get burned if I can help it...

It's pretty widely accepted that the aftermarket fuel lines are a crap shoot and most folks stay away from em whenever possible. That said, some are better than others and I have heard the Stens versions are at least usable for awhile.

As for recourse with the ebay seller, you would typically take that up with the ebay policy folks through the various means available if he's just being a ****. I almost know who it is just by the description provided. Out in Washington state by chance?

 

[mogulmasher]

Ya I bought some of that Amazon fuel line for my very first Mac 10-10. Stuff hardened and became unusable first time fuel hit it. Absolute junk.

The hardened fuel line on this 2-10 is the original line it looks like. I'm gonna buy one of the glue in tank grommets from eBay and run regular tygon with it.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I'm curious about those myself if you're referring to the bushing with the 'O' ring. The point of origin may be a hint to the quality. And bear in mind not all yellow fuel line is Tygon. You want actual Tygon F-4040-A .

 

[Goinwheelin]

Got the Pro 10-10 tore completely down and figured I would experiment with fuel tank bushings. I checked the hole with a gage pin then turned a bushing .0005 over that for a light press fit. Brushed with some seal all before installation. Should know soon if it works out, waiting on a set of rings then I will reassemble everything.
Bushing dimensions are
.4195 O.D.
.260 Long
.218 I.D.

 

[heimannm]

There are many, many options for fuel line replacement on the 10 Series that do not use OEM style parts. There are grommets to install in the tank hole and pull Tygon through, "No Leak" kits from e-Bay seller 1two machine, large diameter Tygon in the hole and a smaller line pulled through it as described earlier in this thread, make your own bushings as wheelin' has just shown, etc. etc.. I have heard from others that the Stens fuel lines are O.K. but there are so many other ways to go I haven't used them myself.

I did try some e-Bay after market fuel lines and as noted, they get very hard even without fuel exposure and one split at the carburetor after a few weeks of mostly setting.

Mark

 

[vizette]

It's pretty widely accepted that the aftermarket fuel lines are a crap shoot and most folks stay away from em whenever possible. That said, some are better than others and I have heard the Stens versions are at least usable for awhile.

As for recourse with the ebay seller, you would typically take that up with the ebay policy folks through the various means available if he's just being a ****. I almost know who it is just by the description provided. Out in Washington state by chance?

HAH actually, no these two were from "lawnmowerpartsworld" in SC apparently (had to go back and look it up). He asked for pictures to send back to the supplier supposedly. Not sure what good a picture is gonna do to prove that the line is as hard as a TV remote control? Anyway, I did so and of course never heard back. Pinged him about it again, dead air. Got tired of chasing him honestly, as I had to message him a couple times initially just to get a response, which said that they were "out of warranty" and of course he has had "Zero complaints" about them until now. Yeah.

Good to know about Stens, I've also heard good things about Oregon lines. Once upon a time I was also chasing the idea of a stainless barbed bulkhead fitting, but never got around to experimenting. One of these days...

@Jethro 2t sniffer I was surprised how light the 2-10 was too. I kept picking up my 10-10 and then the 2-10 just to make sure I wasn't imagining it!

 

[heimannm]

The fuel tanks on many of the earlier saws were magnesium, later ones (like the PM700) were aluminum, a noticeable difference.

Mark

 

[Teemore]

Hi folks, My parts lists aren't helping me today... Could one of you kind folk provide me with the part numbers for the short, chain brake/clutch covers used on the 7-10 and Pro 10-10 Automatics? I have come across someone who cleared out an old dealership and amongst other NOS stock, there are Mac parts . Are there any "unicorns" or "hens' teeth" that I should be asking about for amongst this stuff?
On another track, have any of you had success in welding these clutch/chain brake covers? I have a couple that have cracks at or near the chain tensioner...