The unofficial Mac 10-10 thread

[kjmatson]

Hey everyone. The air filter is missing almost all the felt, trying to find a suitable replacement for air filter part number 66774. Any suggestions? Thanks again!

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

The earlier 'domed 'filters are hard to find and expensive when you find them. There were a couple variants as well. 91456 is the more common one if you can call any of em 'common'. Folks have used everything from pantyhose to craft felt and a glue gun to extend the life of the filters they still have. A sheet of the thinner universal filter foam simply cut to fit around the old filter or into the airbox cover has also been mentioned as a suitable solution. That would be my personal preference if there were no other practical options..., sort of a poor man's MaxFlow setup for a Mac. If going that route, I'd also use a high quality filter oil like Bel-Ray or similar.

 

[heimannm]

I still have a few of these available, $25 + shipping.





Mark

 

[heimannm]

The latest 10 Series full wrap handles for the rigid mount saws are now available. One version works on either LH or RH start saws, the other only fits the RH start saws. LH or RH start.





Here is one installed on a Pro Mac 10-10. Keep in mind that it will be necessary to modify the clutch cover for clearance at the bottom unless you have one of the early, non brake style clutch covers.





I initially notched the clutch cover above then discovered it did not need to be so severe as you can see below.





The short brake or non brake covers require more adjustment.





I modified this short, brake equipped cover for an earlier batch of handles but these are more flattened on the clutch side of the saw so they don't need as much clearance as the earlier ones.



RH starters and early LH start clutch covers clear without modification.



To be continued...

Mark

 

[heimannm]

The clutch cover for the early LH start saws will also clear without any modifications.



Here are photos of the LH style installed on a Pro Mac 700, this fellow put some tape on the handle for a bit more cushion.





The other version will only fit the RH start saws.





It is close on the flywheel side but I can fit my big hand in.



If anyone is interested in either RH or LH start full wrap handles for the 10 Series saws please send a message.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

Saws with the long clutch cover require a certain procedure to get the clutch cover off and on with a full wrap handle installed. This is a PM800 but the rigid saws work the same way.









And there you have it.

Mark

 

[ML12]

Got the color on my 2-10/7-10 mash up project. Just need to do the lettering in black, then spray the 2k clear.
I will be needing a plain style 10-10 air filter cover, the cover I have is for one of the "winter" saws with the ducts on it and I am pretty sure that the starter won't clear the cover.
I also solved the muffler issue, a 2-10 muffler can be modified to work on a 7-10, but it does require some welding and modification.

This is the first mcculloch I've ever had to completely disassemble and paint. Usually the paint is really good.

 

[ML12]

Well the plan to use the 2-10 crank and right hand starter has definitely been derailed. I noticed that the rod seemed to have a little play at the big end, but everything looked ok. I took the rod off the crank and noticed that the crank journal had eroded, not from corrosion, but from what looks like wear. I used the micrometer to measure and its about 0.005" smaller in diameter than the rest of the journal. (measured at 90 Degree offsets)

My thoughts are that either the heat treatment/hardening process was not performed properly on the journal and the hard layer was not thick enough, or that there was a metallurgical problem with the initial forging. I've seen wear similar to this on a wrist pin once, and I assumed it was lack of lubrication, however the rest of this saw is spotless. The bore, piston and rings look fantastic, there is no bluing on the rod or crank either indicating that they got hot.

Thoughts?

So it looks like i'll use the original 7-10 crank which was fine, and put the short block together and then be on the lookout for a clutch cover and starter cover.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Well the plan to use the 2-10 crank and right hand starter has definitely been derailed. I noticed that the rod seemed to have a little play at the big end, but everything looked ok. I took the rod off the crank and noticed that the crank journal had eroded, not from corrosion, but from what looks like wear. I used the micrometer to measure and its about 0.005" smaller in diameter than the rest of the journal. (measured at 90 Degree offsets)

My thoughts are that either the heat treatment/hardening process was not performed properly on the journal and the hard layer was not thick enough, or that there was a metallurgical problem with the initial forging. I've seen wear similar to this on a wrist pin once, and I assumed it was lack of lubrication, however the rest of this saw is spotless. The bore, piston and rings look fantastic, there is no bluing on the rod or crank either indicating that they got hot.

Thoughts?

So it looks like i'll use the original 7-10 crank which was fine, and put the short block together and then be on the lookout for a clutch cover and starter cover.

I've been wanting to do this to a 2-10 I have and a spare 700 engine. Id like to keep it right hand pull and thinking may try the clutch on the non keyed shaft and a bit of lock tight on the nut. If it doesn't hold could grind a keyway with the dremel and perhaps you could do that too if really wanted to keep it right hand pull.

Really like your project and think it will make quite a weapon of a saw

 

[ML12]

I've been wanting to do this to a 2-10 I have and a spare 700 engine. Id like to keep it right hand pull and thinking may try the clutch on the non keyed shaft and a bit of lock tight on the nut. If it doesn't hold could grind a keyway with the dremel and perhaps you could do that too if really wanted to keep it right hand pull.

Really like your project and think it will make quite a weapon of a saw

The tapers on the crank where the clutch sits are different unfortunately, and I don't really feel like doing the machining required to get it to work. The threads on the PTO side of the rh start saws is also smaller, so a RHS clutch won't even fit over the threaded portion of the 700 crank.

I've come up with a repair on the starter cover, requiring lots of epoxy, steel mesh and some body filler, but it will look good as new to an untrained eye.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

The tapers on the crank where the clutch sits are different unfortunately, and I don't really feel like doing the machining required to get it to work. The threads on the PTO side of the rh start saws is also smaller, so a RHS clutch won't even fit over the threaded portion of the 700 crank.

I've come up with a repair on the starter cover, requiring lots of epoxy, steel mesh and some body filler, but it will look good as new to an untrained eye.

Ahhh never even twigged about the tapers. I noticed a couple of my clutches have the starter dog holes

Maint sup did a good repair of a cover in bad shape like that so definitely can be done

 

[briguy26]

Thought I'd post here, if it's not the right place than let me know. Anyhow I came across an extremely great condition 1010 Super. Put in new sdc carb kit, new fuel line and filter. Poured in fresh mix and fired it up. For some reason it won't go full throttle. It sounds great until venturi is wide open then it boggs down really bad and wants to stall out. I cleaned the carb out with carb cleaner and everything. I know how to tune a carb and no matter what the settings it still boggs at full throttle. My question was I have another 1010 SDC carb that I would like to try. It's an SDC with a governor from a regular 1010. Would this carb work? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks guys

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Thought I'd post here, if it's not the right place than let me know. Anyhow I came across an extremely great condition 1010 Super. Put in new sdc carb kit, new fuel line and filter. Poured in fresh mix and fired it up. For some reason it won't go full throttle. It sounds great until venturi is wide open then it boggs down really bad and wants to stall out. I cleaned the carb out with carb cleaner and everything. I know how to tune a carb and no matter what the settings it still boggs at full throttle. My question was I have another 1010 SDC carb that I would like to try. It's an SDC with a governor from a regular 1010. Would this carb work? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks guys

It sounds exactly like the check valve is bad , idles but bogs or stalls at wot.
The check valve is under the welch plug (small) . There are a couple of write ups with pictures.
Post a couple of pictures of the carburetors.

 

[briguy26]

It sounds exactly like the check valve is bad , idles but bogs or stalls at wot.
The check valve is under the welch plug (small) . There are a couple of write ups with pictures.
Post a couple of pictures of the carburetors.

I'll look into the Welch plug for the check valve. It looks like the saw sat for some time before I fueled it and fired it. Maybe the check valve got gummed up?

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

View attachment 843854View attachment 843853I'll look into the Welch plug for the check valve. It looks like the saw sat for some time before I fueled it and fired it. Maybe the check valve got gummed up?

Not necessarily gummed up but could be worn out, remove the Welch plug and shine a flashlight through the carb if you can see light through the valve its no good for sure,but could be wadded up to.
Seriously lots of posts about it.

 

[robrath]

This is my very first time posting here. I was given a pro mac 10 10 a while ago, the previous "owner" said it only needed a tuneup and a new chain. Well, I found out they were given that saw 3 years ago whose previous "owner" also said it just needed a tuneup and a new chain. I dug around for a few weeks looking for manuals and whatnot, finally gathered together what I could find, thanks to this site and others, and started working on the saw to clean it up and get it fixed up.
The saw is a mod 600014C, serial 12-XXXXXX, according to my searches, this one has an automatic oiler?
I'm proud to say I got the thing cleaned up pretty nicely, rebuilt the carburetor, replaced some really worn out gaskets everywhere I could access, new plugs, new fuel lines, and got it running, however for the life of me I can not find an owner's manual for this to tell me exactly how to operate it. I don't want to break anything because I've put so much work into this saw and I really like how it looks and sounds. I have a few questions I'm hoping you can set me right on how to operate this saw correctly.
1. How am I supposed to correctly use the oiler? Is it like a primer to start getting some oil to the chain with the automatic oiler takes over after the engine runs? or do I need to "pump" that knob a few times every now and then?
2. Can I improvise the airbox seal (P/N 69564) with something? It doesn't appear that the seal does anything more than preventing sawdust/crud from getting into the airbox. I found it for sale for $20 at Randy's Engine but the seal really doesn't look like anything other than a plain squishy rubber seal. It doesn't appear to be in contact with any gas or oil since the gas tank has its own seal.
3. I only have one of the 2 bar plates, do I need both? Some of the videos I've seen of the teardown of this saw, they didn't appear to have any bar plates at all.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

This is my very first time posting here. I was given a pro mac 10 10 a while ago, the previous "owner" said it only needed a tuneup and a new chain. Well, I found out they were given that saw 3 years ago whose previous "owner" also said it just needed a tuneup and a new chain. I dug around for a few weeks looking for manuals and whatnot, finally gathered together what I could find, thanks to this site and others, and started working on the saw to clean it up and get it fixed up.
The saw is a mod 600014C, serial 12-XXXXXX, according to my searches, this one has an automatic oiler?
I'm proud to say I got the thing cleaned up pretty nicely, rebuilt the carburetor, replaced some really worn out gaskets everywhere I could access, new plugs, new fuel lines, and got it running, however for the life of me I can not find an owner's manual for this to tell me exactly how to operate it. I don't want to break anything because I've put so much work into this saw and I really like how it looks and sounds. I have a few questions I'm hoping you can set me right on how to operate this saw correctly.
1. How am I supposed to correctly use the oiler? Is it like a primer to start getting some oil to the chain with the automatic oiler takes over after the engine runs? or do I need to "pump" that knob a few times every now and then?
2. Can I improvise the airbox seal (P/N 69564) with something? It doesn't appear that the seal does anything more than preventing sawdust/crud from getting into the airbox. I found it for sale for $20 at Randy's Engine but the seal really doesn't look like anything other than a plain squishy rubber seal. It doesn't appear to be in contact with any gas or oil since the gas tank has its own seal.
3. I only have one of the 2 bar plates, do I need both? Some of the videos I've seen of the teardown of this saw, they didn't appear to have any bar plates at all.

The oiler button is for priming a dry system and for cutting really dry,dirty,and sappy wood ( pitch). Based on your preference all in all , I especially like it for long cuts because oil helps the bar last alot longer. It can also help clear debris from the bar rails and sprocket nose.
The air box seal can be made from any fuel resistant material, all 2 strokes spit a little fuel back the carburetor. The original stuff is like tar infused rope.
Spongy gasket or rubber would work.
The bar plates help protect the softer metal body of the saw from both the chain and vibrating bar . Saws I've gotten used that had the plates missing for a long time usually have pitting or gouges in the saw body or clutch cover. I recommend you use them , I make the out of high quality steel sheet stock.
Great running saws and easy to work on. Check out the McCulloch saw thread for fun.

 

[robrath]

Thank you for the reply!
How many pumps of the oiler is typically needed at first start? Does the automatic oiler keep the bar lubricated during any other use?
Thanks for the tip on the gasket, I'll look around to see if I can find something that works.

One more thing, according to this (http://acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/e134c94c3ee94a6488256c2e007315a7), the oil/gas mixture is 1:20?? I thought it was 1:40?

The oiler button is for priming a dry system and for cutting really dry,dirty,and sappy wood ( pitch). Based on your preference all in all , I especially like it for long cuts because oil helps the bar last alot longer. It can also help clear debris from the bar rails and sprocket nose.
The air box seal can be made from any fuel resistant material, all 2 strokes spit a little fuel back the carburetor. The original stuff is like tar infused rope.
Spongy gasket or rubber would work.
The bar plates help protect the softer metal body of the saw from both the chain and vibrating bar . Saws I've gotten used that had the plates missing for a long time usually have pitting or gouges in the saw body or clutch cover. I recommend you use them , I make the out of high quality steel sheet stock.
Great running saws and easy to work on. Check out the McCulloch saw thread for fun.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Thank you for the reply!
How many pumps of the oiler is typically needed at first start? Does the automatic oiler keep the bar lubricated during any other use?
Thanks for the tip on the gasket, I'll look around to see if I can find something that works.

One more thing, according to this (http://acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/e134c94c3ee94a6488256c2e007315a7), the oil/gas mixture is 1:20?? I thought it was 1:40?

40:1 modern oil mix , old school oils were not as effective.
The automatic oiler will do the job for you and is adjustable, but requires taking the oil tank cover off. It works off motor impluse compression :aka motor is running its pumping,So its best to get cutting with your bar and chain combinations and see how it works. About 3 pumps should be enough but you'll feel resistance from the button once primed and see oil squirt out at the top of the bar mount.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Thank you for the reply!
How many pumps of the oiler is typically needed at first start? Does the automatic oiler keep the bar lubricated during any other use?
Thanks for the tip on the gasket, I'll look around to see if I can find something that works.

One more thing, according to this (http://acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/e134c94c3ee94a6488256c2e007315a7), the oil/gas mixture is 1:20?? I thought it was 1:40?

I've also found that the old saws pump cheap bar oil better because its thinner and flows better with the impulse oilers.
So dont sweat buying the high dollar stuff, but don't use motor oil.